Swapped intake, high knock control and check engine light after drive

[bay_hatch]

Hey guys,

I need some help. I just swapped my mishimoto short ram intake for a PRL short ram intake [ordered a conversion kit for a cold air but is currently on back order] and after driving on the freeway for 40 minutes my knock control shot up in the last leg of my drive.

When i started the car, knock control was at .60 which I presume was normal and drop when i started driving gingerly.

I hopped on the freeway and prob only brought the engine up to 4500 rpm to pass some people and knock control was down at 0.55 and holding fine.

Now when I got off the freeway was when I noticed that my knock control and coolant temps go up. My knock went up to 0.65 after going up a pretty steep hill and then up to 0.71 after going up to another steep hill (why does my girlfriend live on steep hills ?_? )

After I parked, knock control was now at 0.71 I turned the car off and back on and boom got hit with a check engine light. Debating now if I should swap back to the stock intake if this would be a reoccurring issue. I do wanna note that todays weather is warmer than usual with temps getting up to 90 degrees, and is currently sitting at 81 degrees.


EDIT: Want to mention that I am tuned on TSP Stage 1 and was on Map 2. I'm also in California and the highest octane we have is 91

 

[Vic_L]

@bay_hatch which version of the PRL intake did you buy?
There is a Street MAF version, and a Race MAF version.
You'd want different tune/flash for the Race MAF version; PRL says required.

 

[bay_hatch]

@bay_hatch which version of the PRL intake did you buy?
There is a Street MAF version, and a Race MAF version.
You'd want different tune/flash for the Race MAF version -- recommended.

Oh right, I bought the street MAF. Installed yesterday and on my drive home from my buddies house, everything was fine. Knock control stayed between .49 to .55

I think the only noticeable difference from today and yesterday is the heat and putting more load due to the steeper hills.

 

[Vic_L]

Oh right, I bought the street MAF. Installed yesterday and on my drive home from my buddies house, everything was fine. Knock control stayed between .49 to .55

I think the only noticeable difference from today and yesterday is the heat and putting more load due to the steeper hills.

Might be the heat.
Doesn't the TSP Stage 1 tune have an option for Street and Race MAF?
I don't remember if there was an option...it's been a while...

TSP tune also recommends 93 Octane or greater, so putting 91 Octane in will make the knock control climb up a little. From what I recall (from other threads here), 93+ will sit in the more ideal 0.4# ~ 0.5# region, and below you will see 0.6# ~ 0.7# (or slightly higher at times) since timings are being adjusted.

 

[bay_hatch]

Might be the heat.
Doesn't the TSP Stage 1 tune have an option for Street and Race MAF?
I don't remember if there was an option...it's been a while...

TSP tune also recommends 93 Octane or greater, so putting 91 Octane in will make the knock control climb up a little. From what I recall (from other threads here), 93+ will sit in the more ideal 0.4# ~ 0.5# region, and below you will see 0.6# ~ 0.7# (or slightly higher at times) since timings are being adjusted.

I'm thinking it's the heat and increased load going up those hills too.
When I bought the ktuner and TSP tune I already had my mishimoto intake installed so I got the street option.

With my mishimoto intake, knock never got above 0.61 even if I drove it "aggressive" (I say aggressive because I only do some light acceleration when I need to pass someone, but never really do WOT pulls)


How can I get rid of the CEL? Would I have to reflash?

 

[gtman]

First let's talk about knock control. OP, everything you posted about your knock control numbers is absolutely NORMAL. Like Vic_L said, the TSP 1 runs best on 93. It will run ok on 91 as well just with higher knock control numbers. Heat will raise knock control. But I think the big culprit here are Bay Area hills. That's a lot of load. Not saying you're climbing Pike's Peak but your highest kc was only .71...

Under the circumstances, that's not unexpected, at all. In addition, the emissions problem wouldn't stem from a slightly elevated k.c. number. Knock Control was working as intended.

If you're sure you're running the street maf version, we can rule that out as well. Unless.. and here's a possibility. You ordered the wrong tune. When you order the TSP 1 you pick either race or street maf version. Is it possible you bought the one for the race maf accidentally? That could cause fuel trim issues which could be problematic.

If you run a datalog I can read it for you. Or at the minimum, show both long and short fuel trims parameters on Tunerview (LTFT, STFT).

Also post up the actual error code. You can find that (and remove) through the KTuner V2, or if you're on V1.2, through the KTuner software.

Last but not least. OP, make sure you add your car to the community tuning survey I run.

https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/the-tuned-civicx-experience-reliability-survey.42361/

 

[bay_hatch]

First let's talk about knock control. OP, everything you posted about your knock control numbers is absolutely NORMAL. Like Vic_L said, the TSP 1 runs best on 93. It will run ok on 91 as well just with higher knock control numbers. Heat will raise knock control. But I think the big culprit here are Bay Area hills. That's a lot of load. Not saying you're climbing Pike's Peak but your highest kc was only .71...

Under the circumstances, that's not unexpected, at all. In addition, the emissions problem wouldn't stem from a slightly elevated k.c. number. Knock Control was working as intended.

If you're sure you're running the street maf version, we can rule that out as well. Unless.. and here's a possibility. You ordered the wrong tune. When you order the TSP 1 you pick either race or street maf version. Is it possible you bought the one for the race maf accidentally? That could cause fuel trim issues which could be problematic.

If you run a datalog I can read it for you. Or at the minimum, show both long and short fuel trims parameters on Tunerview (LTFT, STFT).

Also post up the actual error code. You can find that through the KTuner V2 or if you're on V1.2 through the KTuner software.

Sorry I'm very new to tuning and car modifications in general. I've done my fair share of research on the goods of running TSP based on your tuned reliability survey, but never really looked into the bads or issues.

I'm actually not too certain if I have the street or race version now. Would you be able to tell from this photo? I just asked the seller and he isn't certain since his car has been totaled for a while now.

 

[gtman]

Oh so you bought the intake used? There's a possibility the issue is that you unknowingly purchased the race version. The MAF housing would be larger but I'd need a side by side. Or maybe measure the opening and message PRL for help?

Here's the only pic I could find of the different MAF openings (street on the left).

 

[bay_hatch]

Oh so you bought the intake used? There's a possibility the issue is that you unknowingly purchased the race version. The MAF housing would be larger but I'd need a side by side. Or maybe measure the opening and message PRL for help?

Yup, I had an issue with my Mishimoto intake rattling too much in the box which annoyed me so much and saw someone local selling the PRL intake. It was my mistake to not double check which MAF housing it was before purchasing. But here are some images taken from another thread with the difference in housing sizes.

I'll have to check later when I have a bit more time.

 

[bay_hatch]

@gtman, If I confirm that I did buy the intake with race MAF, I can reflash with the ktuner base maps with race maf option and be okay correct?

 

[gtman]

The KTuner starter maps should have a maf scaling option for a race maf as far as I know.

As a side note, you should be checking your fuel trims from time to time.

 

[Vic_L]

Once you've determined whether you have the race or street MAF, you can also get in touch with TSP, and they could send you the proper Stage 1 tune file.

By the way, that filter looks a little dull in color; could use a clean, and/or recondition / re-oil.

 

[bay_hatch]

Thanks for all your help @Vic_L and @gtman. Forgive me for being such a noob and making a rookie mistake lol.

I'm guessing the only way to know if its race or street is by measuring the maf housing diameter. I've tried looking for the diameter size but i guess PRL keeps is secretive. I've sent them a message and pray that they'll respond as I'd wanna flash the right tune on it before driving back home from my girlfriends tonight. I just know their race maf is 50% larger over stock.

 

[bay_hatch]

Figured it out! I can confirm now that its the race MAF.


Indication is the R which stands for race, which my MAF housing has. I'm going to flash the ktuner basemaps with race maf option and report back after a short drive.

 

[KTuner]

I think you'll have much more success.

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