Swallowing my pride and asking questions...

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ek5.56

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Welcome to the forums. First, you don't need to swallow your pride to ask questions. This is how we learn. :thumbsup:

As others have said, the Boomba BOV is a bad idea because of how eloquently @Micah explained. If you want that turbo sound, install a SRi or CAI kit. I installed the Injen kit and opted for the full CAI. And yes, to answer your question, you remove the stock resonator box when you install the CAI kit. You clearly hear the hiss of incoming air and the psssshhhhh when the BOV operates.
Thanks Lucky. When it comes to fishing through settings like this, I like to be a problem solver and poke around until I find something. But damn there's a lot and I couldn't figure out a lot of stuff at first.

Yes, the Boomba is nixed. It already shipped by the time I got a response from MAPerformance. Should be here Monday, I'm returning it at that point. In the meantime, I'm shopping around for a CAI. I missed the PRL sale so those are back up to $400. In between AEM and Injen, unless has another sale in the next couple weeks.



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typemismatch

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I'm going to throw my weight in against the BOV as well.

MAF systems measure the air coming in, then calculate the fuel requirement for the correct burn in the cylinders. If you release some of the air after it has been measured, then the system is using more fuel than necessary which leads to sooty exhaust, decreased mpgs, and increased ring wear since excess fuel washes the oil from the cylinder walls.

I'm also going to say skip the intake. The dollar per horsepower value isn't there, and some intakes have bad MAF housing designs that cause check engine lights.

Your best bang for buck is going to be spent on the following upgrades
- Tuner (KTuner or Hondata, pick your flavor)
- Intercooler upgrade
- Heat wrapping (turbo blanket, intake pipe, down pipe)
- Down pipe/front pipe
- Rear mount (Hasport)
- Tires

The first 3 are the most bang for buck you're going to see period.

It sounds like you don't want to spend a lot, so leverage every penny for the most effect.

I've built a lot of Hondas over the years and these are the best mods you can do from my point of view.
 
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ek5.56

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I'm going to throw my weight in against the BOV as well.

MAF systems measure the air coming in, then calculate the fuel requirement for the correct burn in the cylinders. If you release some of the air after it has been measured, then the system is using more fuel than necessary which leads to sooty exhaust, decreased mpgs, and increased ring wear since excess fuel washes the oil from the cylinder walls.

I'm also going to say skip the intake. The dollar per horsepower value isn't there, and some intakes have bad MAF housing designs that cause check engine lights.

Your best bang for buck is going to be spent on the following upgrades
- Tuner (KTuner or Hondata, pick your flavor)
- Intercooler upgrade
- Heat wrapping (turbo blanket, intake pipe, down pipe)
- Down pipe/front pipe
- Rear mount (Hasport)
- Tires

The first 3 are the most bang for buck you're going to see period.

It sounds like you don't want to spend a lot, so leverage every penny for the most effect.

I've built a lot of Hondas over the years and these are the best mods you can do from my point of view.
This is actually the first mention I've personally read of installing a new intercooler BEFORE other mods. What results would just the intercooler yield? From what I've read, the stock intercooler in these are quite adequate even with other mods, which I think is probably why I see most people doing them after they're done other things.

The intake I'm going to do soon because its easy and fairly inexpensive. Meanwhile, I'm tucking money away in my hobbies fund for the Hondata or KTuner. I haven't even made the first payment on this car yet lol. I dont want to burn all my savings at once and then be eating ramen noodles for the rest of the year.
 

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Intercooler is really not needed unless you live in a very hot climate or have a dp/fp cai and custom tune already. You will get some heat soak with the stocker but nothing to worry much about. Its not a big enough gain to justify the cost (800+).
 
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ek5.56

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Intercooler is really not needed unless you live in a very hot climate or have a dp/fp cai and custom tune already. You will get some heat soak with the stocker but nothing to worry much about. Its not a big enough gain to justify the cost (800+).
Pretty much my thoughts on it as well. CAI - yes. Tuner - eventually. Thats honestly probably as far as I'll take things on the performance side. Exhaust...maybe. Tires, when I need them. Wheels, if I can afford the cost of some nice black wheels when I get new tires.
 

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Power is a direct function of air density, hotter air is less dense.

Attach an OBD logger to your car, if your secondary IAT is higher than ambient temp, you are losing power to an inefficient intercooler.

Additionally, higher IATs have a tendency to cause knock, which the computer recognizes and pulls power to manage.

Cooling your IAT and engine bay is actually both a power mod and a reliability mod.
 

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ek5.56

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I would, and considered doing something like that, but as you mentioned in that thread, I want to retain the ability to revert back to stock down the road if needed. I don't mind shelling out the doll hairs for a CAI, nor a tuner (likely used). I just dont want to drop the funds on BOTH right now. I have plans for both, but the CAI is the cheaper of the two so for right now, that's what Im thinking will come first.

If I'm lucky, I wont have to pay for the tuner. 30th bday is this fall and my girlfriend has already started asking me what I might want. So maybe I'll start talking up that tuner!
 

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I would, and considered doing something like that, but as you mentioned in that thread, I want to retain the ability to revert back to stock down the road if needed.
Yeah, that was an initial concern of mine... however, I went ahead and drilled out the bottom of my airbox to do my cold air mod, because the cost of replacing that part is like 20-30 bucks. So essentially, even if I have to revert to stock, the cost of my CAI ($50 for K&N, $25 for hardware) plus the cost of replacing the bottom half of the airbox ($30) still puts me way, WAY below the cost of buying a "real" CAI.
 

StickShiftMyButt

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only thing i did for my Si: Hondata tuner and Continental ExtremeContact Sport Plus summer tires. great for tapping into the car's stock potential.
 

RunningHot2017

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Well. I got the bov and put it on just shits and gigs to see how it sounds. Why? Because the company wouldn’t take it back because “the box is opened”. Now upon startup I’m getting all sorts of errors. VSA, brake, brake hold, power steering, hill start etc etc. I took it off and put it back to stock. Still getting all the errors.
Its one of the cars limp modes. Specifically the emissions one I think. These codes are thrown whenever the car detects something wonky with the turbos function. If you had a Hondata or Ktuner programmer you could reflash/clear the codes. But the car will likely need someone else to clear the codes if you dont have one of those. Otherwise your turbo wont make boost.

My car threw the exact same codes when I went over the boost limit while running the 6+ tune. I always keep my laptop with me so that if I ever go into limp mode I can reflash. I raised the boost limits so it hasnt happened again but you never know.

Also its pretty wrong how they sent you a product that doesnt work and then wont take it back. Knowing that the product is crap. Did you open the box when you got it? Or did you open the box after they said they didnt want it?
 
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Its one of the cars limp modes. Specifically the emissions one I think. These codes are thrown whenever the car detects something wonky with the turbos function. If you had a Hondata or Ktuner programmer you could reflash/clear the codes. But the car will likely need someone else to clear the codes if you dont have one of those. Otherwise your turbo wont make boost.

My car threw the exact same codes when I went over the boost limit while running the 6+ tune. I always keep my laptop with me so that if I ever go into limp mode I can reflash. I raised the boost limits so it hasnt happened again but you never know.

Also its pretty wrong how they sent you a product that doesnt work and then wont take it back. Knowing that the product is crap. Did you open the box when you got it? Or did you open the box after they said they didnt want it?
The codes actually cleared after driving for a few miles and cycling the ignition a few times. I noticed the car didn’t quite have the power it had stock, so I took the bov off. Sounds cool but I’d rather have the performance.

I opened the box when I got it because the return address wasn't the company I got it from, so I wasn’t certain what was even in the box. I know people still want to install a bov, and since it was used for 20 minutes, I was just going to post it on the classified section here. Even if I could return it, I’d be responsible for shipping. What chaps my ass is that the production description says “this product will not throw errors”. I may try to contact them and try to get a refund but I’m not holding my breath.
 
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The codes actually cleared after driving for a few miles and cycling the ignition a few times. I noticed the car didn’t quite have the power it had stock, so I took the bov off. Sounds cool but I’d rather have the performance.

I opened the box when I got it because the return address wasn't the company I got it from, so I wasn’t certain what was even in the box. I know people still want to install a bov, and since it was used for 20 minutes, I was just going to post it on the classified section here. Even if I could return it, I’d be responsible for shipping. What chaps my ass is that the production description says “this product will not throw errors”. I may try to contact them and try to get a refund but I’m not holding my breath.
When I installed the Injen CAI, my car threw Check Engine lights as well as few other warnings, IIRC. Cycling the ignition a few times cleared the warning lights and I haven't had a problem since. My assumption was that the MAF sensor went a bit crazy wondering where the hell all this air was coming from, but then stopped throwing the warnings once it adjusted.
 

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