Suggestions for audio power/wiring in 2018 Civic EX

kimura_aura

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Hey there, I've bought some audio equipment for my 2018 Honda Civic EX sedan and need some assistance in buying the correct power for what I've got. Initially I wasn't going to amplify my front speakers and just replace the stock speakers, but after a few days figure if I'm upgrading why not go ahead with it...so bought a small amp after the thought and now I'm a little worried I have too much equipment. I'm not installing this, I'll be getting it installed by someone else, just want to make sure they have all the supplies needed and don't hardcore upsell me on something from their shop.

Here's what I've got

Speakers for front doors - Kicker 43DSC6504

Amp - JBL Stage A6002

LOC - LC2i Pro

Powered Subwoofer - Sound Ordnance B-8P

9 wire speaker cable

Both the JBL amp and powered subwoofer list they need a 10 AWG for power. The LC2i lists using 16 to 14 AWG. I figure I will need a distribution block for this setup, but how big of a cable do I need/can I run from the battery to the trunk and through the grommets in the 2018 Civic EX Sedan? What should I get for a distribution block? Hoping to get the LC2i, amp, and powered sub installed in the trunk with the LC2i tapping into the front speakers wires via the 9 wire cable.

Is there anything else I'm missing for what I'm wanting to accomplish here? I appreciate any help provided!
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rwk226

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From my experience in car audio, you've got your AMP which needs one 20a fuse, and then the powered subwoofer needs another 7.5a or so, plus your LC2i with it's recommended 1a fuse (20 + 8 + 1 = 29). With 100% efficiency you'll never be pulling more than 400w of power, so a wiring kit with at least a 30amp fuse would be ideal here.
You can find all kinds of kits on Amazon for $40+ but I recommend a kit that states "OFC / Oxygen Free Copper" over anything with "CCA / Copper Clad Aluminum". OFC can handle more current and is safer than CCA by a long shot. This KnuKonceptz kit is an excellent choice IMO. High-quality cabling from my experience, and they come with just about everything you need.

I don't have much knowledge of Distribution blocks, however this Rockford Fosgate one will be more than adequate for your needs. RF is a well-known brand and I trust all their products in terms of quality and efficiency.

I can't imagine you needing anything else here. You have an exciting build going right now, can't wait to see the end result! Make sure to post updates for us
 

Ocelot

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I have two of the Sound Ordnance B-8P modules under my front seats, they have a huge peak at about 80 hz that I'm trying to tame - I think I need to install some eq for it.
Your JBL amp might be helpful in cutting out that frequency from your fronts, I'm just using HU power for my fronts - so there is overlap on the front left/right and my two B-8P's
 
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kimura_aura

kimura_aura

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From my experience in car audio, you've got your AMP which needs one 20a fuse, and then the powered subwoofer needs another 7.5a or so, plus your LC2i with it's recommended 1a fuse (20 + 8 + 1 = 29). With 100% efficiency you'll never be pulling more than 400w of power, so a wiring kit with at least a 30amp fuse would be ideal here.
Thank you so much for this info! This really cleared up a lot of confusion I had on how to figure out how much power/cabling I need for this setup. Definitely like the price tag on that kit.

The more I research this (and get quotes in excess of $600 for this install) the more I'm thinking I should just do it myself. I was able to install a powered sub in my last car, an 09 Toyota Yaris, but it had an aftermarket head unit with RCA and didn't need to splice anything. Splicing makes me worried I'm gonna F something up haha
 
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rwk226

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You're welcome! To be more clear, here is the formula I use to determine stuff:
14.4volts (14.4 because most amplifiers operate most efficiently at this voltage) + whatever amp-size fuse you need (so in this case, 30amp), and the result will be the wattage.

Ex: 14.4 x 30 =432 watts. You can swap around the formula to figure out different numbers.
Ex 2: 400 / 14.4 = 27.78 (round up to 28). If you know what your RMS is going to be, and you're sure your charging system can maintain 14.4 volts, you can use RMS watts divided by the voltage, to figure out what size fuse you will need.

Note, these calculations are all estimations and there are different ways of figuring it all out, but this is just quick math that anyone who knows their base-four math skills can do in a few seconds. You always have to factor in real world conditions, and that nothing is 100% efficient, companies aren't always honest about what their products are capable of, and that extensive research can go a long ways.

Williston Audio Labs AKA Big-D Wiz is an expert in car audio, and he regularly tests lots of different amps, subs, etc. and tells us, the common folk, the truth!
Others like CAF, Steve Meade, and more are also great channels to watch.
 

kostas

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Or to put it more simply..
Hertz suggests using cable fuse with value 30% more than the amp.
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