Subwoofer upgrade Rockford Fosgate P300

[Zavage]

I saw that some people already upgraded the subwoofer by putting the Rockford Fosgate P300-8, P300-10 or P300-12 inside the trunk.
About wiring (especially Touring trim), is it true that you just unplug the factory subwoofer, take a connector harness to plug it on the one side into the factory harness for the subwoofer and the other side into the High-Level-Input? This probably apply also to other active subwoofers.

If you have the P300, are you happy with it? Are the 300W rms enough?

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[elykoj]

Are you just replacing the subwoofer? did you change anything else? Will the sound be better with just changing out the subwoofer? I have a Touring as well..

 

[Zavage]

I've got the following plan:

• replacing front mid/lows and tweeters with Rockford Fosage P165-SE
• dampening the front door
• deactivate the factory subwoofer and use the factory subwoofer cable for the Rockford Fosgate P300-10. There are 2 ways for the connection:
  1. insert the factor subwoofer cable into the LC1i and select 20 ohm impedance (AMP IC from Honda wants to see an impedance from 1.8 to 45 ohm, otherwise it will deactivate the channel). After the LC1i, connect into the low level input of the RF P300.
  2. use the factory subwoofer cable and connect it into the high level input of the RF P300. wiring is not clear because the RF high level input requests 4 wires (usually left and right rear speaker) and not only 2 wires.

 

[Ocelot]

I used a P300-12 in my corolla wagon with a Kenwood HU that had selectable x-over slopes, and adjustable levels - it's bass-boost function made it sound bloated and boomy, but i did pretty good with bass-boost disabled..
It had enough power to overcome deck power on two front 4" coax's, but I don't think it'd have enough power if you are amplifying your front channels with anything substantial. (That being said, you mght be amplifying something much bigger than my 4" coax's, so they will be able to assume a bit more of the bass duties than my little 4"ers).

 

[Wilefisherman]

Installed the 10" version my Si. Its been great except for trunk and rear deck rattles. I was able to get rid of about 75% of them. I used the LCI2 and taped into the front right door speaker leads. If you read around on the forums, you will see the sub output is not as strong or rounded signal. Takes a little extra time, but your ears will than you.

Good luck!

 

[Zavage]

Changed my plan and went to a audio specialist in my home town.
Now i got these components in my car:
Front Tweeters and Mid/Lows: Gladen RS-X 165
Subwoofer: ETON RES 10A

What he did: dampening the front doors. Deactivating the subwoofer in the rear deck by using the cable for the High-Low-Converter Helix AAC.3, which is connected to the spare wheel subwoofer ETON RES 10A. Benefit: you can still use the subwoofer settings in the Head Unit.

What i hear: A tremendous change in the sound quality. The Gladen speakers are great, the Subwoofer is giving more than enough bass, i even turned down the sensitivity. Nothing is rattling, just a proper, high quality sound. Many people say: use the front speaker signal for an aftermarket subwoofer. No! You don't need it. Honda is providing the subwoofer channel from 20 hz to around 150hz, with main frequencies of 20-100hz. The subwoofer is getting all the right frequencies, you won't miss one.