Subwoofer Install

[gnarlynick]

I'm in the process of installing a subwoofer right now; everything is wired and SHOULD be good to go, but the signal coming from the back two shelf mounted speakers is waaayyyy to weak. I'm using this LOC: https://www.visions.ca/catalogue/ca...MIobH3zYu36wIVExLnCh2TRw_REAQYAyABEgJTPPD_BwE (new, tested and working) to send signals to this amp (tested and working): https://www.amazon.ca/Pioneer-Gm-3300T-2-Channel-300-Watt-Amplifier/dp/B0088XZXYE to a used sub that has also been tested and works.

I cut all four (2+ and 2-) wires that go to each speaker, and spliced in an extension wire to take all + and - (two of each, left and right channels) to the LOC. I tested the power coming out of the speaker wire (Pre LOC) and the power BARELY moved the needle on my voltmeter. There's just not enough in there for the LOC to process and send to the amp. Is this due to a crossover network or something? Anyone have any ideas? Should I just take the signal from the front door speakers instead? Thanks for any help you can offer!

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[PandaXpress]

Are you using a test tone and what volume do you have it at?
I used a 1,000 hz test tone with the radio volume at 35 and got around 2 volts from my LOC.

 

[Musclebadger]

I'm in the process of installing a subwoofer right now; everything is wired and SHOULD be good to go, but the signal coming from the back two shelf mounted speakers is waaayyyy to weak. I'm using this LOC: https://www.visions.ca/catalogue/ca...MIobH3zYu36wIVExLnCh2TRw_REAQYAyABEgJTPPD_BwE (new, tested and working) to send signals to this amp (tested and working): https://www.amazon.ca/Pioneer-Gm-3300T-2-Channel-300-Watt-Amplifier/dp/B0088XZXYE to a used sub that has also been tested and works.

I cut all four (2+ and 2-) wires that go to each speaker, and spliced in an extension wire to take all + and - (two of each, left and right channels) to the LOC. I tested the power coming out of the speaker wire (Pre LOC) and the power BARELY moved the needle on my voltmeter. There's just not enough in there for the LOC to process and send to the amp. Is this due to a crossover network or something? Anyone have any ideas? Should I just take the signal from the front door speakers instead? Thanks for any help you can offer!

I have always heard to take the signal from the front door speakers. Last time I did a sub install, I moved it to the front ones and sound was a lot better.

 

[TranceFC1]

What's the best way to tap the front speakers without cutting the oem harness

 

[Musclebadger]

What's the best way to tap the front speakers without cutting the oem harness

I have used T-taps in the past for that.

I would take a look at some of the other subwoofer threads on here. There are a few different ideas on tapping into the front speaker wires, I thought I saw something about a plug addon or something.

 

[gnarlynick]

I have always heard to take the signal from the front door speakers. Last time I did a sub install, I moved it to the front ones and sound was a lot better.

Ok! Thank you for the insight. Appreciated.

 

[gnarlynick]

Are you using a test tone and what volume do you have it at?
I used a 1,000 hz test tone with the radio volume at 35 and got around 2 volts from my LOC.

No - not smart enough to use a test zone. I just tested the output with a voltmeter - right from the speaker itself, and there wasn't even .5 volts showing on it. So weird. There SHOULD be enough coming from the speaker wire to feed into the LOC, I would have thought!

 

[Jay_Tech]

How many ohms is the sub you have? If it is a 4 ohm sub you are going to want to wire it in parallel to make it a 2 ohm sub.

 

[PandaXpress]

Just download a test tone from JL Audio
https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/235503327-Audio-Files
you need a 40-50 hz for the sub and play it on your radio at volume 35, the lower you have the volume the less wattage is coming out. Also dunno if you want to play a constant test tone with some of your speakers still attached, might wreck em.

No - not smart enough to use a test zone. I just tested the output with a voltmeter - right from the speaker itself, and there wasn't even .5 volts showing on it. So weird. There SHOULD be enough coming from the speaker wire to feed into the LOC, I would have thought!

 

[gnarlynick]

How many ohms is the sub you have? If it is a 4 ohm sub you are going to want to wire it in parallel to make it a 2 ohm sub.

Okayyyy! Thanks! Now I need to find that out. I appreciate the help.

 

[gnarlynick]

Just download a test tone from JL Audio
https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/235503327-Audio-Files
you need a 40-50 hz for the sub and play it on your radio at volume 35, the lower you have the volume the less wattage is coming out. Also dunno if you want to play a constant test tone with some of your speakers still attached, might wreck em.

Okay! I get that. The signal from the rear speakers sends NOTHING through my LOC right now, so it looks as though I probably have to take the feed from the front door speakers - but I'll defo download that test tone. Thanks for the info!

 

[86salmon]

The rears are like surround speakers and have minimal output. The sub has a sharp dropoff at 40hz. The rest of the range is handled by the fronts

https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/2018-premium-audio-system.33835/#post-565636

 

[gnarlynick]

The rears are like surround speakers and have minimal output. The sub has a sharp dropoff at 40hz. The rest of the range is handled by the fronts

https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/2018-premium-audio-system.33835/#post-565636

Thanks - looks like I'll have to tap into the fronts then.

 

[gnarlynick]

How many ohms is the sub you have? If it is a 4 ohm sub you are going to want to wire it in parallel to make it a 2 ohm sub.

- thanks Jay_Tech!

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