Subwoofer connectivity in the trunk?

long_meats

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I ended up doing the same exact thing. I'm not in love with it but it's working and I can remount it when I've finished the seat covers I'm hand making.
Off topic question, but on your LX Coupe can I ask what size subwoofer and amp you use? Also, what gauge power wire? I have a 15 inch Memphis DVC subwoofer (unsure what it's specs are as it doesn't say anywhere on it) wired to what I believe is 2 ohms to a very old retro Hi-Fonics Cyclops 100w mono amp (175 watts in 2 ohms) with a 8 gauge power wire, and when I play it comfortably loud it usually shuts off after about 20 minutes, but never shuts off at a lower volume. It sounds great before it shuts off and the gain is set correctly with no recognizable clipping/distortion at high volume, and all the power/ground wires are well secured.

It tends to shut off faster if I'm using the A/C or heater, headlights, windshield wipers, etc., so I've been trying to determine which of the following may be what's causing it:
A) The stock alternator/battery is insufficient (The map lights do dim a bit when bumping the bass while the car is idle. Wondering if other people with our LX Coupe have the same problem? I have a 30 amp fuse installed, so my current to the subs shouldn't be more than 30 amps)
B) The 8 gauge power wire is too small (The Amp's manual says 8 GA should be sufficient for the length of my wire)
C) The amp is 30 years old and I should just buy a new amp

I've been trying to figure this out, and was just wondering if other people with my LX Coupe equipped with a sub experience the same problem as me, which will help narrow the reason down. Thanks!!
 

SCOPESYS

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Virtually every DSP is also a LOC (but not all LOC's are DSP's). I assume the AccuBass in the LC7i and LC2i is done digitally, not analog, which makes them DSP's.

The point was that you need to get a device that processes the input signal, not just converts it from speaker-level to line-level.
Lc2i is Analogue Filtering
 

SCOPESYS

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wired to what I believe is 2 ohms to a very old retro Hi-Fonics Cyclops 100w mono amp (175 watts in 2 ohms) with a 8 gauge power wire, and when I play it comfortably loud it usually shuts off after about 20 minutes, but never shuts off at a lower volume. It sounds great before it shuts off and the gain is set correctly with no recognizable clipping/distortion at high volume, and all the power/ground wires are well secured.

It tends to shut off faster if I'm using the A/C or heater, headlights, windshield wipers, etc., so I've been trying to determine which of the following may be what's causing it:
A) The stock alternator/battery is insufficient (The map lights do dim a bit when bumping the bass while the car is idle. Wondering if other people with our LX Coupe have the same problem? I have a 30 amp fuse installed, so my current to the subs shouldn't be more than 30 amps)
B) The 8 gauge power wire is too small (The Amp's manual says 8 GA should be sufficient for the length of my wire)
C) The amp is 30 years old and I should just buy a new amp

I've been trying to figure this out, and was just wondering if other people with my LX Coupe equipped with a sub experience the same problem as me, which will help narrow the reason down. Thanks!!
Off topic question, but on your LX Coupe can I ask what size subwoofer and amp you use? Also, what gauge power wire? I have a 15 inch Memphis DVC subwoofer (unsure what it's specs are as it doesn't say anywhere on it) wired to what I believe is 2 ohms to a very old retro Hi-Fonics Cyclops 100w mono amp (175 watts in 2 ohms) with a 8 gauge power wire, and when I play it comfortably loud it usually shuts off after about 20 minutes, but never shuts off at a lower volume. It sounds great before it shuts off and the gain is set correctly with no recognizable clipping/distortion at high volume, and all the power/ground wires are well secured.

It tends to shut off faster if I'm using the A/C or heater, headlights, windshield wipers, etc., so I've been trying to determine which of the following may be what's causing it:
A) The stock alternator/battery is insufficient (The map lights do dim a bit when bumping the bass while the car is idle. Wondering if other people with our LX Coupe have the same problem? I have a 30 amp fuse installed, so my current to the subs shouldn't be more than 30 amps)
B) The 8 gauge power wire is too small (The Amp's manual says 8 GA should be sufficient for the length of my wire)
C) The amp is 30 years old and I should just buy a new amp

I've been trying to figure this out, and was just wondering if other people with my LX Coupe equipped with a sub experience the same problem as me, which will help narrow the reason down. Thanks!!
(a) "Shuts off after a time, especailly when run for a time at high volume".
(b) "Very old retro Hi-Fonics Cyclops 100w mono amp (175 watts in 2 ohms)"
(c) "It tends to shut off faster if I'm using the A/C or heater, headlights, windshield wipers, etc.,"
(d) "The map lights do dim a bit when bumping the bass while the car is idle."

All, especially (b) could be symptoms of the old Electrolytic Caps in the Amp, having dried out and lost a lot, of not all, of their capacitance and/or become leaky.
Another sure sign, would be if you looked at the top of them, and the top metal surface, was DOMED.

Time to replace the Caps, or get another AMP.
30 years ago, that amp was quite expensive.
A new 300W i Mono amp is now relatively far less expensive.
($100 - $200)

so
The amp is 30 years old and you should just buy a new amp
 

long_meats

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(a) "Shuts off after a time, especailly when run for a time at high volume".
(b) "Very old retro Hi-Fonics Cyclops 100w mono amp (175 watts in 2 ohms)"
(c) "It tends to shut off faster if I'm using the A/C or heater, headlights, windshield wipers, etc.,"
(d) "The map lights do dim a bit when bumping the bass while the car is idle."

All, especially (b) could be symptoms of the old Electrolytic Caps in the Amp, having dried out and lost a lot, of not all, of their capacitance and/or become leaky.
Another sure sign, would be if you looked at the top of them, and the top metal surface, was DOMED.

Time to replace the Caps, or get another AMP.
30 years ago, that amp was quite expensive.
A new 300W i Mono amp is now relatively far less expensive.
($100 - $200)

so
The amp is 30 years old and you should just buy a new amp
Thanks for the info, yeah I just wound up simply getting a new JBL Club 5501 so luckily I am no longer am dealing with those issues, but I still have that old HiFonics layin' around so I'm gonna save your response so I know what to look for in case I ever feel like attempting to repair it.
 
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