Sub Channel suddenly very weak

Fountainhead

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Hi All,

For about 8 months now I've been running my OEM sub amp channel into a DVC sub with 4 Ohm coils in parallel for 2 Ohms.
I don't rap or dance or hip-hop at extreme levels, I like to hear the low end of instruments.
Yesterday I took a car trip and noticed the bass we like, gone.
Getting out of the car I opened the trunk and the speaker was barely moving.
I have a DP single throw switch installed to change between the OEM sub (still installed) and the sub in a box.
Neither of them has the output that was there originally.

Has anyone ever had this issue? Before I couldn't run the Sub above say 2 ticks above center hash mark, and now I can barely hear it wide open.
With out warning or abuse the sub chip/amp seems to have shit the bed.

MAYBE there is some sort of communication error between HU and AMP but I doubt it. Those chip amps will shut down if overtemp(has never happened) or if shorted (never happened) so I'm at a loss.

Next I'll try a reset of the HU.
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FifStreet

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I think we need more information.

Where is your aftermarket sub getting its signal?
Are you using a line out converter?
Are you getting zero sound out of either sub but normal sound out of the rest of the speakers?
 
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Fountainhead

Fountainhead

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I think we need more information.

Where is your aftermarket sub getting its signal?
Are you using a line out converter?
Are you getting zero sound out of either sub but normal sound out of the rest of the speakers?
Stock amp signal nothing added except the DVC 4 ohm sub connected in parallel for a 2 ohm load. We curved the sealed cabinet and no weird impedance curve, etc., no subsonic crazy tune. Just a sub driver in a box.

Tomorrow I’ll check the impedance of the box maybe one of the DVC came loose?

No amp, no LOC.

All other speakers are normal. Sub is not 0 output but is suddenly quite a bit lower than before whether connected to OEM stock sub or outboard box.
No abuse or beating on it.
I know it sounds cliche but I’m not a head banger.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 

FifStreet

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I think you are on the right track. It sounds like one of the voice coil connections came loose.

But there's no amp driving the second sub? That's pretty bold. It worked well up to this point?
 
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Fountainhead

Fountainhead

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Nope, just the inboard sub amp. Like I said I'm not a headbanger/rap/hip-hop listener, I just want to hear the bass E string and the Kick. Just checked the sub and it's still 2 ohms.
Sigh. I could turn it up enough to get by but I still don't think it's right. Guess I could do a soft reset of the radio.
 
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Hi All,

For about 8 months now I've been running my OEM sub amp channel into a DVC sub with 4 Ohm coils in parallel for 2 Ohms.
I don't rap or dance or hip-hop at extreme levels, I like to hear the low end of instruments.
Yesterday I took a car trip and noticed the bass we like, gone.
Getting out of the car I opened the trunk and the speaker was barely moving.
I have a DP single throw switch installed to change between the OEM sub (still installed) and the sub in a box. Local moving services phone company g&j moving.
Neither of them has the output that was there originally.
Has anyone ever had this issue? Before I couldn't run the Sub above say 2 ticks above center hash mark, and now I can barely hear it wide open.
With out warning or abuse the sub chip/amp seems to have shit the bed.

MAYBE there is some sort of communication error between HU and AMP but I doubt it. Those chip amps will shut down if overtemp(has never happened) or if shorted (never happened) so I'm at a loss.

Next I'll try a reset of the HU.


how did you solve the problem?
 
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Fountainhead

Fountainhead

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how did you solve the problem?
I haven't, I just re-adjusted the sub and bass level. Not sure what happened, on way to work this am nothing changed again, so not sure what originally happened.
Anyway, it's giving me enough bass to meet my expectation so I'll just keep an eye on it.
 

ManfromRI

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I have a question. How do you have your switch wired in to both subs??

Also, do you know what ohms the factory sub was/is??

My only guess is maybe you ran the aftermarket sub off of the stock OEM amp with the lower resistance and it caused the amp to go haywire.

Or.. maybe the switch is messing something up or it's grounding out on something???

Me personally, If I were running an aftermarket sub, I would just disconnect the OEM sub (because you wouldn't hear it anyways) haha.
 
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Fountainhead

Fountainhead

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I have a question. How do you have your switch wired in to both subs??

Also, do you know what ohms the factory sub was/is??

My only guess is maybe you ran the aftermarket sub off of the stock OEM amp with the lower resistance and it caused the amp to go haywire.

Or.. maybe the switch is messing something up or it's grounding out on something???

Me personally, If I were running an aftermarket sub, I would just disconnect the OEM sub (because you wouldn't hear it anyways) haha.
The switch is a single pole single throw switch means only one speaker is connected to the OE sub amp at a time.

So, if I have to take the driver in a box out for space, then I throw the switch and the OE sub is connected.

The stock OE sub driver is 2 ohms the same as my driver in a box.

Thanks though!
 

ManfromRI

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The switch is a single pole single throw switch means only one speaker is connected to the OE sub amp at a time.

So, if I have to take the driver in a box out for space, then I throw the switch and the OE sub is connected.

The stock OE sub driver is 2 ohms the same as my driver in a box.

Thanks though!

Ah ok, yea I was just speculating lol. I have no idea what happend haha.

Best of luck finding the issue though ?
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