Strut guide pin delete question

[shoegazer]

Hi, Everyone.

I posted once before re: this pin as mine are still installed on my 2018 LX 2.0 CVT. Both pins (pictured) have begun to rust. I just want them gone if they are indeed 'optional'. I've check the threads and saved many how-to instructions re: how to do it. But I'm still not 100% clear on the camber issue.

My understanding is that the pin is holding the camber in a certain position. And this (mostly) is for ease of installation from the factory. While it's fine to leave the pins in place; it's also fine to remove them and allow the strut towers to move to the position they will assume without the pins.

So... this new position (and resulting change in camber) is perfectly fine? No excessive tension or anything? I have zero need for any change in handling, cornering, or wheel sizes. But I don't wanna' hear about it from Honda if it causes an issue. And I don't wanna' screw anything up in general.

I've attached two photos. The one with the rusty pin is the passenger side tower. The other is the driver's side. I'm assuming that a steady hand and a good pair of vice grips are the proper tools. My understanding is to generally pull upward; but with slight twists and turns to help it along. Afterward... gently loosen the three nuts and allow the bolts to move to the new resting position before tightening them down again.

Any and all input is welcomed. Thanks for reading.

 

[ebatr24]

Remove one of the struts nuts, thread it onto the guide pin, and then use a crowbar or something similar you can wedge under the nut to wiggle it out. Super easy, I remove them in like 30 seconds. You can get about half a degree of negative camber from removing it, won't hurt anything or really affect the ride much. You can still tighten the nuts without sliding the strut inward though and negate the additional negative camber.

 

[m_kluch]

Either remove like stated above or place washers around the pin most of the way up and then thread a nut on and keep threading until the pin comes out. No need to change camber if you dont want to. If you change camber it will change your toe and you will need to correct the toe with an alignment.

 

[shoegazer]

Update: I managed to get the tabs out relatively easily. That was the good news. What I found underneath was not so good. The pics of the holes were taken *after* applying a brush to remove the loose stuff.

As much as I'd like to just DIY and avoid the Honda situation; I'm not going to have any confidence without getting up under the strut tower. And that's not something I feel comfy doing.

Pics provided just for update purposes as well as for anyone attempting the same delete.

If anyone has any input; it's always appreciated.

 

[m_kluch]

That rusty part is the top of the strut assembly. It is steel and will rust like that. I wouldn't worry about it. Here is a picture of a strut with the black top hat that Im talking about.

 

[Blk_Clover]

Anyone? I wanted to buy a strut bar but curious after we remove the pin and realigned the strut would the strut bar still fits?

 

[m_kluch]

I dont see why it wouldnt

 

[Blk_Clover]

Thanks, i just wanted to verify it ( I thought if the pins on both end moved and the strut bar might not fit in, guess the holes on the sc strut is wider.)

 

[exit2302]

Anyone? I wanted to buy a strut bar but curious after we remove the pin and realigned the strut would the strut bar still fits?

If you have a DC strut bar, it will not fit after removing the pin and adding the negative camber.

I already had a DC strut bar on and was setting my car up for the track. To easily get some negative camber, I had the pins removed. Now the strut bar will not fit, now that the bolts are closer together. I could grind the hole of the strut bar to fit, maybe around 1/4" to 1/2" inward, and I may do that.

 

[Blk_Clover]

If you have a DC strut bar, it will not fit after removing the pin and adding the negative camber.

I already had a DC strut bar on and was setting my car up for the track. To easily get some negative camber, I had the pins removed. Now the strut bar will not fit, now that the bolts are closer together. I could grind the hole of the strut bar to fit, maybe around 1/4" to 1/2" inward, and I may do that.

If you have a DC strut bar, it will not fit after removing the pin and adding the negative camber.

I already had a DC strut bar on and was setting my car up for the track. To easily get some negative camber, I had the pins removed. Now the strut bar will not fit, now that the bolts are closer together. I could grind the hole of the strut bar to fit, maybe around 1/4" to 1/2" inward, and I may do that.

Thanks, I kinda thought it wouldn't fit also since both sides moved it. Shaving it down might be the only answer. Thanks again

 

[JO3L]

Removing the guide pin does not add half a degree of camber, I sure wish it did, but its more like 0.2-0.3 degrees.

 

[bbeem]

Thanks, I kinda thought it wouldn't fit also since both sides moved it. Shaving it down might be the only answer. Thanks again

Or buy a 2 piece bar.
https://www.amazon.com/Tanabe-TTB19...tanabe+strut+bar+civic&qid=1591470552&sr=8-11

 

[Blk_Clover]

Or buy a 2 piece bar.
https://www.amazon.com/Tanabe-TTB19...tanabe+strut+bar+civic&qid=1591470552&sr=8-11

Thanks but I've heard 1 piece works better

 

[JO3L]

Wait for the 27WON strut bar to be released. It will probably be more expensive then the others out there but you are paying for the best of the best.

 

[Ben934]

Removing the guide pin does not add half a degree of camber, I sure wish it did, but its more like 0.2-0.3 degrees.

Hi

have meanwhile measured exactly how much ° the removal of the pens brings?

Thx Ben

Sponsored