Stopping power - Part Sources

Yomny

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I think it'll be neat to have thread listing sources where we all get our pads, discs and any other parts related to our stopping needs.
I'll be signing up soon for a couple of HPDE/autocross events and I'll be needing some consumables. From what I've read around here, Paragon and PMU makes good stuff.
I'll be going on my first track day with just some SRF fluid, taking it very slow (just a fun spirited drive) to gauge how the temps and pads behave.

I was going first for a dedicated set of pads, PMU preferably, where did you get yours.

Thanks.

So far I've got -

Paragon Brakes for most braking consumables.
Evasive Motorsports - PMU pads (very affordable)
Porterfield brakes - carries a decent variety of pad brands (Pagid, Raysbestos, Porterfield...)
Giro Disc - Mainly rotors (2-piece), some street pads and titanium pad shims.
Carbotech - Very popular setup XP10/XP8 already reviewed and praised here.

Per experiences, feedback and suggestions it seems the CTR likes to have a less aggressive rear compound then the front.
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Dave B

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I am using Paragon rotors (refuse to pay the OEM prices for 2020 2 piece rotors) and Winmax R5 front pads (from Paragon) up front and Hawk DTC 30s at the rear. Wear has been very good for both. The rotors are showing the tiny cracks I would expect but nothing big.

In the past, I have liked the Raybestos ST43 pad on other cars for up front but find the R5s quite similar.

I change back to street pads between events. This causes some issues with the transfer layer of the R5 still being on the rotors when using the street pads but quickly settles. No issues with the rears. The problem with this approach is that I have to rebed the fronts in the first session of track use as there is effectively no transfer layer present and they are pretty hard to bed in from street use (although it is possible depending on where you live)
 
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Yomny

Yomny

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I am using Paragon rotors (refuse to pay the OEM prices for 2020 2 piece rotors) and Winmax R5 front pads (from Paragon) up front and Hawk DTC 30s at the rear. Wear has been very good for both. The rotors are showing the tiny cracks I would expect but nothing big.

In the past, I have liked the Raybestos ST43 pad on other cars for up front but find the R5s quite similar.

I change back to street pads between events. This causes some issues with the transfer layer of the R5 still being on the rotors when using the street pads but quickly settles. No issues with the rears. The problem with this approach is that I have to rebed the fronts in the first session of track use as there is effectively no transfer layer present and they are pretty hard to bed in from street use (although it is possible depending on where you live)
Good stuff, I had completely forgotten about the Winmax pads. How are you dealing with the EPB actuator? manually or scan tool.
 

Dave B

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Good stuff, I had completely forgotten about the Winmax pads. How are you dealing with the EPB actuator? manually or scan tool.
Have to admit, I splurged and bought a Foxwell 510 tool. (Couldn't get the Autel tools to work on a 2020). I am sure it isn't exactly necessary but is so easy to use and quick. I change rear pads at the track and if the pad going on the car is thicker than the ones coming off, I also use a simple brake compressor tool but again this is very quick. Biggest PITA is that the upper caliper 7mm Allen bolt needs an Allen key as I can't get a 7mm socket in that space. Not a serious issue and you can use a regular drive for the lower one.

One interesting question is what sort of grease can be used for the rear slider pins? They don't appear to come with any which surprises me.
 
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Yomny

Yomny

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Have to admit, I splurged and bought a Foxwell 510 tool. (Couldn't get the Autel tools to work on a 2020). I am sure it isn't exactly necessary but is so easy to use and quick. I change rear pads at the track and if the pad going on the car is thicker than the ones coming off, I also use a simple brake compressor tool but again this is very quick. Biggest PITA is that the upper caliper 7mm Allen bolt needs an Allen key as I can't get a 7mm socket in that space. Not a serious issue and you can use a regular drive for the lower one.

One interesting question is what sort of grease can be used for the rear slider pins? They don't appear to come with any which surprises me.
Feel you in the Allen wrench, never really trusted those for anything requiring torque. I found that the lube below does the job well and it does specify is high temp resistant and for caliper pins. I’ll look into the foxwell tool, could be worth the investment in the long run. Thanks for sharing.

Honda Civic 10th gen Stopping power - Part Sources 1629048365732
 


Jpembry

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Doing the EPB manually is pretty easy all things considered. If I were swapping pads often I could see it getting annoying and at that point the tool might be worth it, but it only adds a few minutes to the job on each side. Also, PMU Club Racer pads have unfortunately been discontinued per the vendor I purchased from.
 
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Yomny

Yomny

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Anyone know if Raysbestos make the ST43 for the rear, I could find the front easily. Same with the Porterfield R4, they only make the R4S for the rear.

Experiences with Gloc pads for the CTR?
 

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I personally don't like runny the same compound at the rear as the front. Given that I track with more gripping tires than OEM, more weight transfers to the front and a less aggressive rear compound is called for to maintain brake balance. I really liked ST43 pads on my Corvette but when trying ST45 in front and ST 43 in the rear, there was far too much rear bias.

This does not mean that rear pads should be left stock as the rears can still get much hotter than what is required by street pads but you don't want the same initial bite as the fronts.
 
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Yomny

Yomny

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I personally don't like runny the same compound at the rear as the front. Given that I track with more gripping tires than OEM, more weight transfers to the front and a less aggressive rear compound is called for to maintain brake balance. I really liked ST43 pads on my Corvette but when trying ST45 in front and ST 43 in the rear, there was far too much rear bias.

This does not mean that rear pads should be left stock as the rears can still get much hotter than what is required by street pads but you don't want the same initial bite as the fronts.
Got it... so the CTR is one of those that likes an easier compound on the rear? I just came out of an ND Miata which used same compound F/R but that had a 50/50 WD. Then again my FRS back in the days was ok with a stock rear pad for the most part(a lot less power and weight). This makes more sense and the Porterfield R4S would suffice for the rear then.

I'm not experienced enough to probably notice a rear bias but then again it may be that obvious in this car. This is why I like to hear what those with more seat time with this car have to say.

Thanks for sharing.
 


AR-Delta

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I use R5 front and PMU CR rear, good balance on A052 with good rotation while trail braking
 

AR-Delta

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The R5, is that winmax? Only able to find W5.
Winmax W5, or Paragon R5. Same pad as far as I know, different brand/color. The R5 seems more readily available from paragon during my search ??
 

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I personally don't like runny the same compound at the rear as the front. Given that I track with more gripping tires than OEM, more weight transfers to the front and a less aggressive rear compound is called for to maintain brake balance. I really liked ST43 pads on my Corvette but when trying ST45 in front and ST 43 in the rear, there was far too much rear bias.

This does not mean that rear pads should be left stock as the rears can still get much hotter than what is required by street pads but you don't want the same initial bite as the fronts.
Surprising you like different compounds F and R. I normally run same compound or similar compounds despite having a BBK or not. I notice less rear lift with match compounds despite braking distribution F vs R.

Currently running Paragon 2 piece front rotors, OEM rears, and R5 both front and rear. Felt great the two weekends I ran with them after adjusting my brake modulation. I have no issues with this particular set up currently other than the Brembos turning brown per usual with heat.
 
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Yomny

Yomny

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Surprising you like different compounds F and R. I normally run same compound or similar compounds despite having a BBK or not. I notice less rear lift with match compounds despite braking distribution F vs R.

Currently running Paragon 2 piece front rotors, OEM rears, and R5 both front and rear. Felt great the two weekends I ran with them after adjusting my brake modulation. I have no issues with this particular set up currently other than the Brembos turning brown per usual with heat.
Wouldn’t the front heavy weight distribution cause the rear to trigger ABS sooner under heavy braking? This could be completely irrelevant to how the car behaves but just wondering.

I’m thinking the only benefit of going lighter compound on the rear would be cash savings, since a lower temp pad could be used.

I was under the impression that rear lift was strictly suspension related. Do educate your fellow track pal here and thanks for all the great contributions.
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