Stock Intake makes same power as Injen

amirza786

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I don’t understand what can be installed wrong with the prl flex kit yet you get eca% read for the tuner to tune it and not notice an issue.

Could you be more specific as to what it was that was installed incorrectly? Or what the issue was that caused your trims to be all over (moving eca%)?

Id blame your intake (incorrect scaling) for the bad trims over the flex kit being “incorrectly installed” but we dont have enough info really. Do you have an older log of these bad trims showing eca% as well as other parameters obviously?
I am not very knowledgeable on issues relating to flex fuel and flex fuel kits, but from what I have read I agree with @FlexRex . It is possible the Flex kit was installed improperly, but I think the tuner would have seen this right away as the sensors would not register. I looked at a few WRX forums and kits improperly installed, the tuner sent them away. I think the only way to really get to the bottom of what happened is to someone knowledgeable seeing the logs when he was having issues and logs from when the failure happened. An Engine teardown would also be helpful, but I think the OP has a lot on his hands getting his car back up and running
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LadyArsenic

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Most of us who bought a Injen didn't do it for any major gains, but for the sound. I however have noticed a difference between stock and my CAI since installing, car deff breaths better and Boost meter fills almost instantly. To each there own, I strictly got it for the sound lol
 

EkSean

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Does the drop in make more power than stock? It's really strange getting the right intake for the car is soo difficult. What gives? I use to have an Injen race CAI on my GSR and it let out a beautiful note and ripped up high
It's a little different for turbo cars. The air now has to travel through a turbo charger, getting compressed and heating up then go through more piping and then an intercooler, then more piping, then finally your throttle body. With your gsr, it just has to go through the intake itself then straight to the throttle body. I don't really understand "cold air intakes" on turbo cars. The intercooler is by far more important in cooling intake air temps than a intake would. Technically it is a cold air intake but just to the turbo haha but that's just my 2 cents though.
 

FlexRex

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Yes i dont get cai on a turbo car either and id have to agree ther intercooler would be the cai. I am on a stock intake myself.
 

Design

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The IC can only do so much to lower intake temps. Pulling from lower in the engine bay can "theoretically" lower BATs a little more, by drawing cooler air in higher volume (vs. the small duct at the nose). Though it probably wouldn't amount to much in a typical scenario.

I am also skeptical of Injen. BUT.... keep in mind with all of this... dyno testing can only say so much. You REALLY need to do virtual dynos in an open environment, and compare the gains over baseline. Very few actually do this because of the level of effort involved. And virtual dynos are only as good as the calibrations set by the user.
 


amirza786

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The IC can only do so much to lower intake temps. Pulling from lower in the engine bay can "theoretically" lower BATs a little more, by drawing cooler air in higher volume (vs. the small duct at the nose).

I am also skeptical of Injen. BUT.... keep in mind with all of this... dyno testing can only say so much. You REALLY need to do virtual dynos in an open environment, and compare the gains over baseline.
I installed a Mishimoto Performance Intercooler, and it basically completely eliminated heat soak. It kept the charged air temp at least 20 degrees cooler than the hot side. I sent one of my data logs on some runs I did this summer on a very hot day (103 F) for someone to analyze and the person I sent it to was surprised at my IAT's. If there is any bolt on I would perform, it would be a quality performance intercooler
 

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I installed a Mishimoto Performance Intercooler, and it basically completely eliminated heat soak. It kept the charged air temp at least 20 degrees cooler than the hot side. I sent one of my data logs on some runs I did this summer on a very hot day (103 F) for someone to analyze and the person I sent it to was surprised at my IAT's. If there is any bolt on I would perform, it would be a quality performance intercooler
Ordered mine already. Just lazy as fuck to remove bumper and do work because, you know, reasons.

Also I'm debating buying these vents and maybe creating a snorkel kit and modifying my K&N SRI housing so it's getting air from that vent. Sort of like 27wons intake except not.

Honda Civic 10th gen Stock Intake makes same power as Injen Screenshot_20191022-111941_Instagram
 
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amirza786

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Ordered mine already. Just lazy as fuck to remove bumper and do work because, you know, reasons.

Also I'm debating buying these vents and maybe creating a snorkel kit and modifying my K&N SRI housing so it's getting air from that vent. Sort of like 27wons intake except not.

Screenshot_20191022-111941_Instagram.jpg
It's a pretty easy job, I would have done it myself as well except I didn't want to remove the bumper cover, way to much work to remove and install it back so I had my mechanic do it. As far as the vents, I would personally leave them as they are. We actually don't know if using open vents would cause aerodynamic or airflow/drag issues. Companies that sell these types of parts probably don't test them to see if they are going to cause issues or affect aerodynamics. I bought an aftermarket bumper cover, and it it had more gaps than a homeless persons teeth (no offense to homeless people intended). I ended up returning it with a lot of headache and replacing the OEM bumper cover (that was damaged from an idiot who does not know how to park) with...an OEM bumper cover!
 

Syntek

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It's a pretty easy job, I would have done it myself as well except I didn't want to remove the bumper cover, way to much work to remove and install it back so I had my mechanic do it. As far as the vents, I would personally leave them as they are. We actually don't know if using open vents would cause aerodynamic or airflow/drag issues. Companies that sell these types of parts probably don't test them to see if they are going to cause issues or affect aerodynamics. I bought an aftermarket bumper cover, and it it had more gaps than a homeless persons teeth (no offense to homeless people intended). I ended up returning it with a lot of headache and replacing the OEM bumper cover (that was damaged from an idiot who does not know how to park) with...an OEM bumper cover!

I had the honeycomb grille on my 2016 and had the gaps as well but tbh that didn't really bother me as the improvement in overall temperatures was worth it. I don't plan on getting it again for my 2019 since the grille is already black so I'm looking at alternatives
 

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Hello ... Yeah ... Most concerning is the K/N drop in ... You don't need that! Worse is it doesn't property filter. Stock air filter is actually also containing oil and WAY better filtration.
You got any evidence to support these claims?
 


FlexRex

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@SDAlexander8 for a filter to flow more air it has to filter less, just plain logic.

More relevant question is if it matters? Does it affect the maf? Over time gets dirtier w better flowing filters? I dunno :dunno: im just asking myself too.

I have a oem filter. Just replaced at 15500mi w the 15k oic. It was filty and 1/4 most bottom was full of dead bugs and all kinds of debris. Should have snapped a picture i guess. Changed my cabin filter too.

I had k&n in other cars and still do in my m5 but lately i have heard stories in the dit community that oils can affect the maf sensor though i dont know how true. I plan on running oem filter media on my car and change often. Rockauto has them <10$.
 

The Vyzitor

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@SDAlexander8 for a filter to flow more air it has to filter less, just plain logic.

More relevant question is if it matters? Does it affect the maf? Over time gets dirtier w better flowing filters? I dunno :dunno: im just asking myself too.

I have a oem filter. Just replaced at 15500mi w the 15k oic. It was filty and 1/4 most bottom was full of dead bugs and all kinds of debris. Should have snapped a picture i guess. Changed my cabin filter too.

I had k&n in other cars and still do in my m5 but lately i have heard stories in the dit community that oils can affect the maf sensor though i dont know how true. I plan on running oem filter media on my car and change often. Rockauto has them <10$.
It is true, to an extent. I had K&N related MAF fouling on two cars. On one, I cleaned the MAF and switched back to the OEM intake and paper filter and everything was fine. On another, I bought an AEM Dry cone filter of similar size and replaced just the filter on the K&N intake.
 

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I too have had maf issues before with K&N on my Accord Sport. And this was brand new right out of the box. I'm not saying I will never run one again but given the choice I'd choose dryflow everytime.
 

mauiSI19

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Most of us who bought a Injen didn't do it for any major gains, but for the sound. I however have noticed a difference between stock and my CAI since installing, car deff breaths better and Boost meter fills almost instantly. To each there own, I strictly got it for the sound lol
Might as well put a BOV on there for the sounds.......


Lol
 

Jpierro79

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The drop in filters do nothing without upgrading the to the silicone hose and extremely minimal at that. However there is a difference from that to a mishimoto or afe takeda intake. I’ve had all three. Mishimoto for the win. The problem with injen is 2 things. One just sucks in engine bay hot air and 2 look at the pipe where the mass air meter is. They shrink it down forcing it to read more air and try to get the ecu to chuck more fuel in. The problem is our ecu runs constant closed fueling loop. It always readjusts. Injen screwed themselves not doing any research. there is power to be gained but only the last 1500 to 1000 rpm is it even noticeable after and intake change.
Honestly you’ll get a lot further with an intercooler and a tune. Those are the 2 biggest areas. Not the exhaust or even the downpipe make that big if a difference. First hand experience and knowledge. Besides you’ll never make more power no matter how much you bolt on if you don’t tune it cause the ecu works off volume of air and torque limits if you exceed it the ecu just pulls boost out. You’ll actually end up with lower psi numbers but same exact power. I’ve seen a full bolt in car make a whole 4 more hp vs completely stock. Tuning with bolt one picked up approximately 60+ wheel hp
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