Stock battery enough power for 1800rms sub?

colemcelmeel

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Recently, I upgraded my previous subs with a whole new system. 2 Kicker L7 Q class squares. They push 1800rms and 3600peak. My lights dim and flash when the beat hits every single time. My subs also sound very weird, some songs will hit hard then the next song that’s supposed to hit super hard doesn’t hit at all. Is my stock battery and alternator giving enough power or should I get a high output alternator?
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colemcelmeel

colemcelmeel

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Recently, I upgraded my previous subs with a whole new system. 2 Kicker L7 Q class squares. They push 1800rms and 3600peak. My lights dim and flash when the beat hits every single time. My subs also sound very weird, some songs will hit hard then the next song that’s supposed to hit super hard doesn’t hit at all. Is my stock battery and alternator giving enough power or should I get a high output alternator?
This is in my 2019 Civic Si.
 

SCOPESYS

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Recently, I upgraded my previous subs with a whole new system. 2 Kicker L7 Q class squares. They push 1800rms and 3600peak. My lights dim and flash when the beat hits every single time. My subs also sound very weird, some songs will hit hard then the next song that’s supposed to hit super hard doesn’t hit at all. Is my stock battery and alternator giving enough power or should I get a high output alternator?
1800 RMS :doh:

Do the maths : 1800W = 1800/12 = 150 Amps

Both your OEM battery and your OEM alternator need to be upgraded ...
I just pity your poor ECU, when your voltage sags, and it won't be long before you burn out the alternator, and/or kill the battery.

I am not going to be the one to tell you you don't need a 1800W amp .. I'll let your audiologist tell you that ;)
 
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colemcelmeel

colemcelmeel

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1800 RMS :doh:

Do the maths : 1800W = 1800/12 = 150 Amps

Both your OEM battery and your OEM alternator need to be upgraded ...
I just pity your poor ECU, when your voltage sags, and it won't be long before you burn out the alternator, and/or kill the battery.

I am not going to be the one to tell you you don't need a 1800W amp .. I'll let your audiologist tell you that ;)
It has only been running for 2 days now. I have a Kicker amp that perfectly matched the power output for the subs, 3600 peak 1800rms. You think I need to upgrade both my battery and alternator? What would you recommend?
 

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It has only been running for 2 days now. I have a Kicker amp that perfectly matched the power output for the subs, 3600 peak 1800rms. You think I need to upgrade both my battery and alternator? What would you recommend?

To me it seems that the amp will be overdrawing both the OEM battery and the Alternator, both in theory, as well as shown by the lights dimming.

Fuse may need to be checked as well... and maybe higer current ones fitted, especailly if you end up with a bigger capacity battery, or a secondary batter, or Higer current capacity alternator.

I am not going to recommend anything, because to be frank, I really have had no experience with fitting these high power amps.

Others have, so I will wait for some of them to reply.
 


ManfromRI

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I am using aftermarket subwoofers. I need 3600peak to fully power them, I don’t want them underpowered.
I wouldn't recommend going by "max" watts to power your subs. Usually the Max wattage is meant for brief burps or less than 5-10 secs of play. If you really want that much power anyways, you will definitely have to upgrade your alt and run a couple batteries.

I'm not aware if anyone makes an aftermarket alternator for 10th Gen civics. You might have to get creative somehow. Mechman alternators are great but pricey (you gotta pay to play)

Goodluck on your quest for bass
 
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colemcelmeel

colemcelmeel

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I wouldn't recommend going by "max" watts to power your subs. Usually the Max wattage is meant for brief burps or less than 5-10 secs of play. If you really want that much power anyways, you will definitely have to upgrade your alt and run a couple batteries.

I'm not aware if anyone makes an aftermarket alternator for 10th Gen civics. You might have to get creative somehow. Mechman alternators are great but pricey (you gotta pay to play)

Goodluck on your quest for bass
Why could I not just put another battery in the back to power the subwoofer?
 


86salmon

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Battery, alternator, wires between the two, ground, heavy duty fuse block, capacitor, ear plugs, loctite for all the bolts that are going to rattle apart...


I miss anything?
 

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Battery, alternator, wires between the two, ground, heavy duty fuse block, capacitor, ear plugs, loctite for all the bolts that are going to rattle apart...


I miss anything?
Some decently sourced music to play on the system ... ( Not Bluetooth) :spaz:
 

86salmon

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colemcelmeel

colemcelmeel

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So does anyone know my options for an aftermarket high output alternator? I can’t find any. If none have hit the market would it make it nearly impossible to play these subs fully powered, safely?
 

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So does anyone know my options for an aftermarket high output alternator? I can’t find any. If none have hit the market would it make it nearly impossible to play these subs fully powered, safely?
Your best options may be a capacitor and an ungraded deep cycle battery...


However, keep shopping for an upgraded alternator... any time your lights dim while using your sound system... it is too much for both the battery and alternator lol...
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