Stock Airbox question

[Aldeezy87]

Hello all, I know this subject has been beaten to death but looking for I guess a final answer to this subject. I know many consider the stock airbox to be the best vs any aftermarket intake, so wanted to ask if getting a PRL tube+K&N drop in filter will be enough in terms of power and sound? I've seen on Youtube that combination with a base tune dynoed at 339whp and 361 tq. Or will it be better to go with the PRL HVI? I was thinking of getting Eventuri but just too much money. Thanks for any responses.

Sponsored

 

[Aldeezy87]

Remember that K&N achieves that freer flowing nature by being bad at what it's supposed to do: filter out dust and dirt.

Oh didn't know that, so you would recommend the complete PRL Intake?

 

[ToofHurts]

I'm curious if anyone with high HP numbers (380+) are running stock airbox. Seems must guys with FBO making those numbers are already running an aftermarket intake (PRL HVI).

 

[tinyman392]

Oh didn't know that, so you would recommend the complete PRL Intake?

It probably makes more sense to say that oil/wet filters allow easier flow of air by being worse filters. Some feel that the oil itself can mess up your MAF sensor as well (others disagree and simply say to not apply so much oil). PRL has 2 intakes, the high-volume intake (HVI) and their stage 1 drop in filter with inlet. The latter is an oiled filter for sure.

There are a couple dry filters that exist which do filter better than oiled, though I’m not sure how they filter against stock. They’re by AFE and AEM if memory serves. As far as power and sound is concerned, I wouldn’t expect much power from a drop in filter (if you get any power). Sound should be improved, but the key word there is should. Oiled drop in filters tend to sound better than dry. HVIs tend to sound the best. Most recommend a tune if using an HVI, granted some manufacturers do claim you don’t need one for their HVI.

Another note is to probably avoid the Mishimoto CAI for now since that’s known to heat soak. I remember them posting that they were revising the design (didn’t specify a reason).

 

[Byron Sexton]

It is a rare situation that a K and N air filter will void your warranty if something major happens to the engine. I wouldn't worry about it. If you want a K and N get it.......wont hurt the car

 

[Aldeezy87]

https://www.knfilters.com/maf/massair.htm

K&N put out their response on the MAF concerns.

Good read. Sharing in case the read is valuable to decision making.

It was good information thanks for sharing. I had a K&N drop in on my Mustang but did not know it was bad at filtering dust and dirt like someone said in this thread.

 

[BlueFalcon]

You don't need one. I run the stock airbox, stock exhaust, with RV6 catted DP and FP, Rampage inlet pipe, HKS intercooler, HKS/PRL charge pipe hybrid mix, and make 380hp/378tq on pump 93. That's also rounded off on the bottom, smoothed out.

If you're just chasing "whoosh" noises, then I hear the PRL sounds nice.

 

[Toolz]

PRL Stage one includes their intake hose and filter for oem box. The turbo sounds are much improved, and doesn’t hurt the wallet! I recommend it.
Save for the other stuff!

 

[Aldeezy87]

You don't need one. I run the stock airbox, stock exhaust, with RV6 catted DP and FP, Rampage inlet pipe, HKS intercooler, HKS/PRL charge pipe hybrid mix, and make 380hp/378tq on pump 93. That's also rounded off on the bottom, smoothed out.

If you're just chasing "whoosh" noises, then I hear the PRL sounds nice.

Now that's more like it, I don't need one after all...is that with Hondata or Ktuner basemaps? I'm curious, what does the exhaust sound like being stock with the aftermarket DP an FP, any video clips? I was considering doing the muffler and resonator delete since I don't mind drone for real.

 

[Iceyankee-Tsi]

Same question here! Hondata or Ktuner?

Thanks!

Now that's more like it, I don't need one after all...is that with Hondata or Ktuner basemaps? I'm curious, what does the exhaust sound like being stock with the aftermarket DP an FP, any video clips? I was considering doing the muffler and resonator delete since I don't mind drone for real.

 

[BlueFalcon]

Now that's more like it, I don't need one after all...is that with Hondata or Ktuner basemaps? I'm curious, what does the exhaust sound like being stock with the aftermarket DP an FP, any video clips? I was considering doing the muffler and resonator delete since I don't mind drone for real.

Hondata, tuned by DRob. Exhaust has a deeper note, a little louder- it's what I might have expected stock, if I had never driven one previously. I much prefer it to something squawking at max rasp every time I touch the accelerator. I can try to take a video this weekend or something, for anyone interested.

Not gonna lie, felt good to change my $20 Honda OEM filter a month or so ago.

Allocated that saved money to other facets of the car to be addressed.

 

[Aldeezy87]

Hondata, tuned by DRob. Exhaust has a deeper note, a little louder- it's what I might have expected stock, if I had never driven one previously. I much prefer it to something squawking at max rasp every time I touch the accelerator. I can try to take a video this weekend or something, for anyone interested.

Not gonna lie, felt good to change my $20 Honda OEM filter a month or so ago.

Allocated that saved money to other facets of the car to be addressed.

Yeah I'm definitely interested in hearing the exhaust with DP. So you can buy the factory paper filters? I just had mine changed last month at the dealer after the oil change.

 

[ayau]

I could see an argument made that a washable K&N filter costs less long term than replacing the stock filter every 3 years. But even then, you just threw away your good OEM filter, so did you really save any money?

Other than that, gains are negligible. Potentially introducing more particles into your engine. No reason to run one IMO. Small wooshing noises if you're into that kind of thing.

 

[BlueFalcon]

I could see an argument made that a washable K&N filter costs less long term than replacing the stock filter every 3 years. But even then, you just threw away your good OEM filter, so did you really save any money?

Other than that, gains are negligible. Potentially introducing more particles into your engine. No reason to run one IMO. Small wooshing noises if you're into that kind of thing.

Right, all that drop-in filter stuff strikes me as a money grab from the different companies. OEM has been fine for my power requirements.

Think of it like this- for less than a tenth of the cost of an Eventuri, you could change your OEM filter twice a year, say every spring and fall, for two and a half years! Really puts it in perspective!

 

[BlueFalcon]

Oh, right, I also did this-

Sponsored