Stereo Wiring Assistance

DHM85

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Trying to install underseat sub. Tried using wiring diagram from the sub and amp install video on the white hatchback but the diagram don't match. Searched Google and no luck.
Honda Civic 10th gen Stereo Wiring Assistance 20201025_154118

Here's a picture of the slot that the speaker wires are on based off of the diagram.
Honda Civic 10th gen Stereo Wiring Assistance Screenshot_20201024-163233_YouTube

It don't match up and kind of frustrating. Unless of course my dumbass is reading this wrong. Any help is appreciated. Behind the light blue wire is a yellow one by the way.
 

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Page 5 of the PDF shows the amp and speaker wiring

In the pic below, this is the female side of the connector ON THE AMP. Looks like you need 2 (white) and 4 (red) going to your sub.
Honda Civic 10th gen Stereo Wiring Assistance 1603660087562
 

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That's the back of the radio, right? You have a factory sub?
 
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That's the back of the radio, right? You have a factory sub?
Yeah a 6 inch factory sub that I only knew existed when I found the forum on complaints of the stock sub. I think there are 2 more trims that have the factory sub as well.
 
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Page 5 of the PDF shows the amp and speaker wiring

In the pic below, this is the female side of the connector ON THE AMP. Looks like you need 2 (white) and 4 (red) going to your sub.
1603660087562.png
I looked at page 5 and I have no idea what I'm looking at. I know how to rip apart an engine, colors and wires frustrate me.
 


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Yeah a 6 inch factory sub that I only knew existed when I found the forum on complaints of the stock sub. I think there are 2 more trims that have the factory sub as well.
If you have a factory sub, then you have a factory amp. You have to splice into the speaker wires after the amp, not from the radio. The amp is located in the passenger side foot well near the door. The wire colors should match up from there.
 
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If you have a factory sub, then you have a factory amp. You have to splice into the speaker wires after the amp, not from the radio. The amp is located in the passenger side foot well near the door. The wire colors should match up from there.
Ok well that would make more sense then, I appreciate it. I'll check this out tomorrow. The footwell panel pops out without removing anything else and the amp should be right there then? Then splice into the sub speakers or the door speakers? I bought a 2 channel LOC for my underseat sub since its a small 8" with a 400w peak. Was told it wouldn't make a difference.
 

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Ok well that would make more sense then, I appreciate it. I'll check this out tomorrow. The footwell panel pops out without removing anything else and the amp should be right there then? Then splice into the sub speakers or the door speakers? I bought a 2 channel LOC for my underseat sub since its a small 8" with a 400w peak. Was told it wouldn't make a difference.
The consensus is that front door speakers are a better signal. I don't know if you can actually hear the difference on a "lower end" setup. The kick panel just pops out, it's a tight space though.
 

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If you are using the front speakers, use pins 5&6 for left and 12&13 for right. The image above of the pinouts is the terminal side, so you will need to reverse it when looking at the plug you pull out of the amp, or just look for the colors referenced in the chart. They matched on my 2020 Si sedan.
 


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The consensus is that front door speakers are a better signal. I don't know if you can actually hear the difference on a "lower end" setup. The kick panel just pops out, it's a tight space though.
Used to working in tight spaces. Not bragging when I say I'm an F-16 mechanic just saying a lot of creative cussing in almost every fucking spot of that plane. Fuck. That. Aircraft.
 
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So I opened up the passenger kick panel and found the harness to tap into. Just realized that the LOC I bought was for a range up to 50watts. RMS on the powered sub is 100w, 400 peak. That gonna be an issue?
 

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So I opened up the passenger kick panel and found the harness to tap into. Just realized that the LOC I bought was for a range up to 50watts. RMS on the powered sub is 100w, 400 peak. That gonna be an issue?
I think the 50W RMS refers to the source (stock amp) output range and in this case, it's probably ok since I'm pretty sure the front mid-range output is less than that.

Given that, you might not even need a LOC. Most powered sub-woofers can accept high level speaker output directly. If you provide a link to your sub-woofer, then I'm sure someone will chime in on if you need a LOC or not.
 
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I think the 50W RMS refers to the source (stock amp) output range and in this case, it's probably ok since I'm pretty sure the front mid-range output is less than that.

Given that, you might not even need a LOC. Most powered sub-woofers can accept high level speaker output directly. If you provide a link to your sub-woofer, then I'm sure someone will chime in on if you need a LOC or not.
Yeah the sub is a Rockville SS8P 400w 8" Slim Under-Seat Active Powered Car/Truck Subwoofer Sub. I heard that the best sound is from RCA cables as opposed to directly tapping into the speaker wires. here's the link

https://www.rockvilleaudio.com/ss8p/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8rn5tfzj7AIVB4rICh1H_wXREAQYASABEgIDLfD_BwE
 

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Yeah the sub is a Rockville SS8P 400w 8" Slim Under-Seat Active Powered Car/Truck Subwoofer Sub. I heard that the best sound is from RCA cables as opposed to directly tapping into the speaker wires. here's the link

https://www.rockvilleaudio.com/ss8p/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8rn5tfzj7AIVB4rICh1H_wXREAQYASABEgIDLfD_BwE
RCA cables would be better IF you had a headunit with RCA outputs for an amplifier. Otherwise, you should use the speaker-level inputs on your powered sub. Last resort is the LOC.

It makes no sense to take the speaker output into an LOC and then connect to to your amp if the powered amp/sub already has speaker-level inputs.
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