SRS Delete Help

[Samlietxh]

Alright all, posting here cause I’m trying to sort this one out. Getting ready to swap seats and pull airbags. I can’t even remotely justify in my head spending $20 on the bride SRS delete. It’s $20 per airbag, for a damn 2.2ohm resistor and some wire.

So that being said, anyone know the wattage here? I have some 2.2ohm 1/4w resistors which I’m sure aren’t correct.

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[ManfromRI]

Alright all, posting here cause I’m trying to sort this one out. Getting ready to swap seats and pull airbags. I can’t even remotely justify in my head spending $20 on the bride SRS delete. It’s $20 per airbag, for a damn 2.2ohm resistor and some wire.

So that being said, anyone know the wattage here? I have some 2.2ohm 1/4w resistors which I’m sure aren’t correct.

$20 isn't to bad, especially if it's plug & play.

I agree with you, it's just some resistors and wire and prob $3 bucks to make.

Me personally, I wouldn't try to go the cheap route. Especially with safety devices. Piece of mind sometimes isn't cheap ?

Either way, I'm sure there's someone that's been down this path here.

 

[bluehatch17]

It’s not plug and play. You need to do soldering.

 

[Deleted member 47337]

Alright all, posting here cause I’m trying to sort this one out. Getting ready to swap seats and pull airbags. I can’t even remotely justify in my head spending $20 on the bride SRS delete. It’s $20 per airbag, for a damn 2.2ohm resistor and some wire.

So that being said, anyone know the wattage here? I have some 2.2ohm 1/4w resistors which I’m sure aren’t correct.

HERE ME OUT....DON'T MAKE THE SAME MISTAKE I MADE.

I have a custom steering wheel on my Type R.

I ordered very expensive resitors for the steering wheel airbag connector and those resistors did not work. After the install, the airbag SRS light came on.

I ordered a SRS resistor kit from NRG for the Civic Steering Wheel Hub. This resistor kit is specifically made for the 10th gen Civics. The same resistors came in the mail, and those resistors, also didn't work.

I took off the steering wheel after installing the second batch thinking that I didn't connect the wires correctly, or perhaps the resistor came loose while driving. Looked at everything and found all wires and resistors connected properly. I did the whole thing all over, soldered the wires, and insulated them with electric tape. - Still, the airbag light came on after a few miles of driving.

*This is what I think happened...

When you pull the negative battery connection, all that does is prevent a fuse from blowing when you are working on anything electrical on the car. It cuts the main power, high voltage power, for the vehicle. However, that doesn't mean that the main ECU loses its power...it actually doesn't. The main ECU has a small backup battery inside of it that can hold a small charge for up to an hour or two. This helps the ECU maintain setting configurations that you've made to the car such as infotainment settings, rev-match setting, etc...

So, when removing the negative wire to the battery terminal, also remove the positive wire connection. CAREFULLY, take both of those wires and connect them together where the wire tips (the metal contact points) touch eachother. Wrap a rag around them to prevent them from becomming seperated and to also protect them from touching other parts of your car that are metalic. Carefully place the + and - wire aside, while they are still touching eachother. As long as both wires are removed from the battery, and both wires are placed touching each other for 10 minutes or more, that small charge in the ECU will be drained within 10 - 15 minutes and the ECU will not detect any removal of wires, fuses, seatbelt plugs, etc....

There is a YouTube video from Camron Hill and his Type R issue. He mentions resetting the car's ECU by doing what I just mentioned, removing both battery connections + and -, and connecting the wires together for more than 10 minutes. - This was apparently verified by Honda Engineers and the dealership he went to.

SO, make sure you do this, otherwise the ECU will detect that you removed the wires to your seat and will still trigger an SRS light, even with resistsors installed. The power to the ECU needs to be completely drained. If you don't do that, then you have to go to the dealer and have them to reset your airbag light. They'll also make note that you've been messing around with the car.

Still have the SRS light on till this day, because I removed the negative battery wire and immedately went to work on the electrical....not knowing that the ECU detected the harness removal of the steering wheel airbag.

 

[Samlietxh]

Said fuck it, bought a bride canceller to cut open. It’s just a 2.2ohm 1 watt resistor, some soldering, 20ga wire, and heat shrink. At cost, maybe 50 cents of parts. For $20. Ordering some stuff and making the rest of these I need as well as some for my buddies.

 

[Benjib13]

Can anyone confirm that the seat airbag is a 2.2ohm 1 watt wire?

 

[Eddy3432]

It is indeed a 2.2ohm resistor

 

[EnvyIsAlive]

Said fuck it, bought a bride canceller to cut open. It’s just a 2.2ohm 1 watt resistor, some soldering, 20ga wire, and heat shrink. At cost, maybe 50 cents of parts. For $20. Ordering some stuff and making the rest of these I need as well as some for my buddies.

By any chance can you let me know here did you out the resistor exactly? I have a pair but I’m having issues on where to plug them in thanks.

 

[Jdmreck]

It is indeed a 2.2ohm resistor

where the resistor needs to be plugged in working on the steering wheel?...... thank you in advance

 

[Eddy3432]

where the resistor needs to be plugged in working on the steering wheel?...... thank you in advance

Do you mean for an aftermarket steering wheel? Also if it's a Type R its a 2.0ohm resistor..

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