Sport vs "base" 1.5T?

teebee288

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How the heck did it rev that high? :eek:
Lol miss shift 1-2-3-2 wot, put in 2nd gear at 140km/h, the car ran fine 2 mounth after this over rev but i bent 3 rod and one morning i started the car and the engine started to knocked like hammer!
Just want to mentioned that now if you run flashpro or ktuner, peak boost of the turbo is now part of the freeze data, even if you back to stock, they can see everything, they saw my turbo is reaching 26.8psi, they saw the over rev did 2 mounth earlier, they saw my ecu was flashed 7 times! so bye bye warranty.
Here Honda dealers are now wireless connected with honda canada they plug their new tool to obd port and send data via internet to honda canada. Honda wanted to bill me 10 000$ for an new engine without labor! Lol i bought the engine for 1500$ CAN, plus oil, prestone,and some very costly gasket, this cost me 2000$.
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SilverGhost

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I know that the custom tune from my EXT didn't work on my 17 Sport Hatchback.Vit had to modify the EXT calibration For the Sport 1.5.
 

teebee288

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I know that the custom tune from my EXT didn't work on my 17 Sport Hatchback.Vit had to modify the EXT calibration For the Sport 1.5.
Thanks, that's a good info. Maybe there is something different, i know the ecu of the sport model had a different mapping, but for mecanic parts, we dont know exactly were are the difference.
I keep my l15ba and when forge rod will come out i will rebuilt it slowly. stock rods on 1.5t can't handle high rpm like k20,b18 or b16 did. 1.5t is a strong engine but below 7500rpm, past that it's very risky.
 

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Well at least you finally confirmed that reflashing can void your warranty.
 

teebee288

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Well at least you finally confirmed that reflashing can void your warranty.
Unfortunately, yes, i was a hard defender of the fact that dealer can't see nothing if you flash back to stock, but things have change now with this new platform. Even if you reflash to stock, you need to have loggs in the ecu and when you reflash the ecu, you erase all the loggs in the ecu and all the ("snapchat" ,they called), registered in the ecu, if dealer see no loggs, they will investigate more. They can't see witch map you ran before the reflash but they got enough proof with the freeze data, and you can not erase freeze data.
But they need to prove that the issue was cause by the mods before denied your warranty.
 


ikbenben

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I keep my l15ba and when forge rod will come out i will rebuilt it slowly. stock rods on 1.5t can't handle high rpm like k20,b18 or b16 did. 1.5t is a strong engine but below 7500rpm, past that it's very risky.
Most small turbo engines aren't build for high revs. A small turbo peaks around 5000rpm and after that boost falls of, so no need for very high revs.
 

teebee288

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Most small turbo engines aren't build for high revs. A small turbo peaks around 5000rpm and after that boost falls of, so no need for very high revs.

Totally agree with you. It's why , the over rev tolerance on the 1.5t is lower than the previous si gen.
 
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peterletran

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Totally agree with you. It's why , the over rev tolerance on the 1.5t is lower than the previous si gen.
teebee288 ... you are awesome !!! I blew the engine in my ex-t coupe a few months ago.
I'm trying to find information on changing the motor, but most people have tried to keep their warranty intact.
I was running a +9 hondata base map when it blew, I've mis-shifted a few times, and also,
I often rev my engine angrily at bad drivers on the streets of Philthydelphia.
(meaning I peg the limiter with a straight pipe exhaust from the turbo-back.)
So now, I'm in the market for a "new-used" motor which could be found for anywhere between $1200-$1800.
The pictures you posted are fantastic. I will be replacing the motor through the bottom of the car, as well.
Hopefully it won't be too difficult without a lift.
I wish I could afford a Type-R crate motor, but $6,000 just isn't in my budget.
I already paid $22k for the car.
 

teebee288

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teebee288 ... you are awesome !!! I blew the engine in my ex-t coupe a few months ago.
I'm trying to find information on changing the motor, but most people have tried to keep their warranty intact.
I was running a +9 hondata base map when it blew, I've mis-shifted a few times, and also,
I often rev my engine angrily at bad drivers on the streets of Philthydelphia.
(meaning I peg the limiter with a straight pipe exhaust from the turbo-back.)
So now, I'm in the market for a "new-used" motor which could be found for anywhere between $1200-$1800.
The pictures you posted are fantastic. I will be replacing the motor through the bottom of the car, as well.
Hopefully it won't be too difficult without a lift.
I wish I could afford a Type-R crate motor, but $6,000 just isn't in my budget.
I already paid $22k for the car.

Tanks lol
We are 3 civic turbo owners in quebec who blow’s thier engine, always the same issue, bent rods, and we think the fuel quality here in the winter is the cause with too much boost at low rpm.
We swap it by the bottom, much easier, if your engine won’t start after the swap check for the anti thief icon in the dash, you need to erase icon by Performing the anti thief reset procedure.
If you need some info on the swap, just pm me.
I run a custom tune hondata +9 since i blow it last year and now have put 15k km on the engine with no trouble but in the winter we had different calibration
 

xcoreflyup

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Hey Guys!
Unfortunately my engine blown yesterday and I’m shocked!!! A sport hatch with intake and downpipe! That’s it. Wasn’t even pushing it! I was doing 45 and it happened, suddenly everything stopped and smoke was everywhere! Didn’t have brake or any steering hopefully was able to stop on the shoulder. Earlier I got a revision from my tuner and when I started the car it was making a sound and wasn’t starting! Then reflashed it to the previous tune that I had and it started just fine. 20 miles later, this happened!
Could it be the custom tune? If yes can I do anything with the tuner?

61F5CD3A-E331-4987-B8BC-7AF4F3915036.jpeg
Sorry about that.

I used to go to this car meeting and alot of these car guys started their own shop. They think they are good but their skill, knowledge and learning is half @ss in reality. You still run a risk even you get it from a reputable shop. The operation of these aftermarket shop will never generate the same level of quality from a fortune 100 company.

Thats why I keep my car stock and get it with a CVT.
 
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peterletran

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Hey Guys!
Unfortunately my engine blown yesterday and I’m shocked!!! A sport hatch with intake and downpipe! That’s it. Wasn’t even pushing it! I was doing 45 and it happened, suddenly everything stopped and smoke was everywhere! Didn’t have brake or any steering hopefully was able to stop on the shoulder. Earlier I got a revision from my tuner and when I started the car it was making a sound and wasn’t starting! Then reflashed it to the previous tune that I had and it started just fine. 20 miles later, this happened!
Could it be the custom tune? If yes can I do anything with the tuner?

61F5CD3A-E331-4987-B8BC-7AF4F3915036.jpeg
Same thing happened to me.
It was when I was driving about 45 mph and the rod snapped and busted holes on either side of the block.
I think maybe these 1.5Turbo engines are very picky about the tune.
I recommend you flash back to stock and leave the battery unplugged and throw on your OEM engine parts.
Honda might be lenient and build you a new motor under warranty.
Fair warning. The engine won't be the same after the rebuild.
I've put on 2k miles on this new engine, and it just doesn't drive properly.
 

BarracksSi

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Hey Guys!
Unfortunately my engine blown yesterday and I’m shocked!!! A sport hatch with intake and downpipe! That’s it.
I apologize for making an example out of you, but whenever I hear someone say, "That's it," as if they did nothing else to the car, my BS sensor starts flashing.

Sure enough:
... Earlier I got a revision from my tuner and when I started the car it was making a sound and wasn’t starting! Then reflashed it to the previous tune that I had and it started just fine. 20 miles later, this happened!
Could it be the custom tune? If yes can I do anything with the tuner?
So now there's new parameters in the computer that tell the engine how to manage air, fuel, and spark, which is MUCH more consequential than just a couple different pipes bolted on.

"That's it"? Nope. Stop using that excuse. You changed everything about how that engine would run (I don't care if the tuner shop did the reflash, YOU have to take some blame by choosing to get it done in the first place), so of course there was a risk of everything going to shit.
 

neteng101

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I apologize for making an example out of you, but whenever I hear someone say, "That's it," as if they did nothing else to the car, my BS sensor starts flashing.
Its pretty basic mods though even with the custom tune - just goes to show how fragile these engines are now. I think we all underestimate how making extra power easily on this platform isn't necessarily reliable nor safe. Stock clutch in MT is weak, engine is weak, CVT is weak - so many points of failure. If people did it right, the costs would rise significantly. You've got to pay to play - cheap power can quickly become expensive. The modern day Hondata/Ktuner is the new NOS!
 

Micah

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I apologize for making an example out of you, but whenever I hear someone say, "That's it," as if they did nothing else to the car, my BS sensor starts flashing.

Sure enough:

So now there's new parameters in the computer that tell the engine how to manage air, fuel, and spark, which is MUCH more consequential than just a couple different pipes bolted on.

"That's it"? Nope. Stop using that excuse. You changed everything about how that engine would run (I don't care if the tuner shop did the reflash, YOU have to take some blame by choosing to get it done in the first place), so of course there was a risk of everything going to shit.
Agreed. Check his post history. Talk about knock count increasing and video of pulls on a ramp. Should not be driving hard on an in progress calibration when being remotely tuned.

Smdh
 

BarracksSi

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Its pretty basic mods though even with the custom tune - just goes to show how fragile these engines are now.
They're "common" mods, not "basic" mods, at least in my mind. It's no big deal to change the intake and exhaust piping, because neither of those are going to make the ECU operate outside of its parameters (at least if the O2 and MAF sensors work).

But changing the ECU mapping is like changing an older car's carburetor, cam timing, spark timing, and whatever else. Put the wrong values into a random corner in the data table and it'll behave like you advanced an old car's spark by 20 degrees.

No, this kid isn't going to get any sympathy from me; nor am I going to declare these engines as "weak" when they get mistreated.
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