Speaker amp install?

[_silvy]

I mentioned that I installed Alpine reference speakers in all 4 door positions. If you want a part number, they are Alpine R-S65c.2 components. If you upgrade the door speakers, it is most likely that you'll need more power to feed them. I have a 5-channel amp. 1 for each door and a sub output.

In my opinion, you're just wasting time if you install just a sub. The stock speakers are garbage, and the OEM amp only feeds them about 40-50W per channel. A decent amp will push 75-100W per channel plus feeding the sub 300+.

Here is my entire setup if you want to compare specs...

JL Audio VXi-700 (Needs preamp FIX-86 for OEM bypass)
JL Audio TW1 12" subwoofer in JLA enclosure
F/R Door speakers replaced with Alpine R-S65c.2 components

Is a 5 channel better than a 4 channel + mono? Where did you mount yours?

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[rwk226]

Your audio is only going to be as good as what the source is. While upgrading speakers will net you better sound (probably enough to satisfy you / most people), to get rid of the crappy EQ you either need a new radio/amp system, or a way to bypass the old system while keeping it, leveling out the EQ manually. Crutchfield.com is a great resource of all things car audio, it'll show you what speakers will fit in your vehicle, they'll provide instructions and installation hardware, as well as free support, on anything you purchase, and lots more.

 

[ManfromRI]

Specifically where it's mounted and what wires you tapped in to and plugged into which ports on the amp

I only have a couple pictures at the moment from when I did my install. I would have to go out and take a few more.
But to answer your question, I have my dsp/amp mounted under my passenger seat. It's got just enough room under there to fit, I figured it would be easier running the wires to the factory amp & doors from under the seat rather than the trunk of the car.

I tapped into the front left & right doors (speakers & tweeters). Some people usually just grab the front speakers only (no tweets) which is fine, as it gives you an ok full-range signal. I just wanted to grab the High frequencies so I wouldn't have to EQ as much in later when the DSP Sums (combines multiple channels into 1 usable output) them together.

I ordered a amp harness from a member on here (forgot his name ?) , he sells them on his site to make tapping into the amp easier and you won't have to cut into your original harness. I highly recommend it!!!

So for instance ; in a perfect world you are looking for a "Flat" full-range input signal, I.e; 0Db from 20hz-20khz for the amp to work with.

In our cars you have the tweeter channel outputting between 6khz - 10khz at prob like -6Db, then you have the front speaker channels which give you about 80-100hz to about 4-5khz at anywhere from 5db to -6Db. (These are just numbers I threw out there for example.)

Anyways, once you take the front door speaker & tweeter channel and Sum them together, it will give you an almost complete full-range signal (80-10khz)

If you want more low end for bass, you can also sum in the sub channel (provided you have the Inputs for it) Or, you can use a bass restoration feature to add it back in as well.

Ok, I'm done for now ?
Take care.

 

[dstix747]

Is a 5 channel better than a 4 channel + mono? Where did you mount yours?

I had it all done. However, the Fix-86 is up front near the Honda amp, and behind the glove box. The 4 channel outputs to the door speakers from the Honda amp were disconnected. I think they had RCA jacks.

The FIX harness went between the Honda amp door speaker outputs and the Fix connector. The Fix output wires, that now includes a sub channel wire, were routed back to the amp along the passenger side door sill trim. The amp is located where the OEM sub and its box used to be.

The amp door speaker outputs were routed forward, to be reconnected to the door speaker wires that were disconnected from the Honda amp using the RCA jacks.

The sub box wires were pulled forward under the rear seat and then routed back to the sub. Sub power was ran along the driver side door sill trim.

I'm pretty good at tearing panels apart, but I didn't want to touch this install. It took a pro 2 days.

 

[dstix747]

Is a 5 channel better than a 4 channel + mono? Where did you mount yours?

A 5 channel just provides a high power dedicated out for the sub. For my 700W amp, 300W is just to the sub, and each door gets 100W. A 4 channel usually pairs 2 channels to the sub, but you don't have fader control. I regretted that in my '17, where I went 4 channel/no fade.

My volume at 7 is louder than the Honda 450W setup. I cruise around at 14. On 30, you really can't be in the car.

 

[JayTee]

If you wired up your 4 fronts with another amp, all the other factory speakers would still sound the same. There would be no "extra' power to recover.

Ohms measures the resistance of the speakers voicecoil. Manufacturers generally use 2 or 4 ohm for speakers and 1, 2,4 ohm (single or dual) for subs.

This gives you options for whatever install setup you want to do.

They don't have to match the factory speakers unless your going to replace them and still power them with the factory amp.

I have some pictures of my install, my speakers are just wired normal out of the amp. What are you looking for a picture of exactly?? I can try to help.

I am wondering the same. I installed an aftermarket amp just for an upgraded 8" sub. Would this not free up more power from the factory amp to supply aftermarket door speakers? I also have an aftermarket HU if that helps as well. Also do you happen to know the specs of the factory amp? Thx

 

[ManfromRI]

I am wondering the same. I installed an aftermarket amp just for an upgraded 8" sub. Would this not free up more power from the factory amp to supply aftermarket door speakers? I also have an aftermarket HU if that helps as well. Also do you happen to know the specs of the factory amp? Thx

It wouldn't free up anything. it only puts out a certain wattage at 12v-14.4v regardless of lack of speakers hooked up.

I think someone posted specs on the OEM Amp somewhere, but I can't recall what the specifics were. You could get an estimate yourself using a multimeter though.

 

[rtypefk8]

I went with a 4 channel amp, DSP, Focal K2 2-way speakers in the front and a Focal sub. I didn't bother trying just the speaker upgrade alone, though.

A big sound improvement was adding sound-deadening to the 4 doors and in the sub enclosure. That does add weight, but it's worth it IMO.

Edit: I forgot to mention that the upgraded sub in the stock enclosure sounds good with the sound-deadening, but it's not bass-intense.

Thanks for the tip about sound deadening

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