Sound Deadening

[Knappy17]

Wanted to see if anyone did this and noticed a difference. Trying to come up for little projects to do on the car ?

Wanted to know if its something I could do myself or if it was too time-intensive.

What deadner did you guys use?

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[Klamkhowder]

I just finished installing CLD in the doors on my 19 hatch, with KnoKnoise Kollosus.

In the old CLD showdown thread on the Diy Mobile Audio forums this product was considered one of the best, although that thread is a little older now, and there are probably products that are just as good or better now.

I didn't notice a huge difference in road noise, but it certainly made my aftermarket speakers sound better, It also makes your doors sound like vault doors when you shut them. It was super easy to do. All you need is a phillips head screwdriver to take the door card out, a roller for the CLD a measuring tape to plan your tile sizes, and a box knife to cut the CLD. You can pretty much get the gist of the install process by watching a youtube video or two.

The next step would probably be installing Mass load vinyl in the doors or doing more CLD on the floor. These things would actually make the cabin quieter. but aren't as simple to do for someone like me who isn't a pro by any measure.

 

[NKOTB]

Please don't only try the dampening tiles... most everyone uses them wrong - they are intended to work as a system with a noise blocker. See below as an optimized dampening/noise blocking approach... (I copied this from my post in a related thread...)

The best value for money, from my I've experiences in auto, home theater and stereo audiophile endeavors, would be to address the "the room/cabin noise floor":

1. Vibration dampening tiles/sheets - cut to cover the largest flat spots on the insides of the outer door skins - front and rear, the hatch well and rear tire wells with your choice of 80 mil adhesive vibration dampener @ about 25% coverage, with tiles especially placed directly behind the speakers (example link)
2. For speaker isolation/vibrations, add closed-cell foam speaker cups to all the mid-speakers (example link) and line (at least the rear) the sub-box with acoustic dampening foam (example link)
3. For noise blocking - on the doors, add a one piece, cut to shape, piece of mass loaded vinyl (MLV)or closed-cell foam-backed (CCF+MLV) to the inner door skin (under the door card) - this can be attached with a few distributed squares of double-sided Velcro squares & allows for easy removal for later accessing door components (example link) On the hatch well and wheel wells, cut & stick to cover fully with CCF+MLV and tape seams (example link) CCF+MLV seller
4. Install & configure Viper4Android to customize the EQ

Bonus - you certainly could also do 1. & 3. for the flooring under the seats, foot wells - up as far as you could go up the firewall & sides, and the ceiling. For overkill - If you really want to go all out, you could do 3. under the dash. But the benefit greatest benefit/time/$ would come from the doors & trunk, then the floors & ceiling, & lastly the dash.

My intent is to do 1-3 for the doors & hatch area (trunk and rear wheel wells) & then see if it needs more.

Disclaimer - I'm not a pro, just a nerdy enthusiast & I don't necessarily recommend any brand of products or seller, just the materials, coverage and layering strategies. Hope this helps!

 

[SiLee207]

Please don't only try the dampening tiles... most everyone uses them wrong - they are intended to work as a system with a noise blocker. See below as an optimized dampening/noise blocking approach... (I copied this from my post in a related thread...)

The best value for money, from my I've experiences in auto, home theater and stereo audiophile endeavors, would be to address the "the room/cabin noise floor":

1. Vibration dampening tiles/sheets - cut to cover the largest flat spots on the insides of the outer door skins - front and rear, the hatch well and rear tire wells with your choice of 80 mil adhesive vibration dampener @ about 25% coverage, with tiles especially placed directly behind the speakers (example link)
2. For speaker isolation/vibrations, add closed-cell foam speaker cups to all the mid-speakers (example link) and line (at least the rear) the sub-box with acoustic dampening foam (example link)
3. For noise blocking - on the doors, add a one piece, cut to shape, piece of mass loaded vinyl (MLV)or closed-cell foam-backed (CCF+MLV) to the inner door skin (under the door card) - this can be attached with a few distributed squares of double-sided Velcro squares & allows for easy removal for later accessing door components (example link) On the hatch well and wheel wells, cut & stick to cover fully with CCF+MLV and tape seams (example link) CCF+MLV seller
4. Install & configure Viper4Android to customize the EQ

Bonus - you certainly could also do 1. & 3. for the flooring under the seats, foot wells - up as far as you could go up the firewall & sides, and the ceiling. For overkill - If you really want to go all out, you could do 3. under the dash. But the benefit greatest benefit/time/$ would come from the doors & trunk, then the floors & ceiling, & lastly the dash.

My intent is to do 1-3 for the doors & hatch area (trunk and rear wheel wells) & then see if it needs more.

Disclaimer - I'm not a pro, just a nerdy enthusiast & I don't necessarily recommend any brand of products or seller, just the materials, coverage and layering strategies. Hope this helps!

dude thank you!

 

[schmiddr2]

Added CLD to door and MLV. Sealed up holes with tape.

 

[Klamkhowder]

Added CLD to door and MLV. Sealed up holes with tape.

Did you do any DB measurements before this, or after? I would be very interested to see your results, and hear your thoughts on this. I'm thinking of doing the same thing but curious how much of a difference just doing the doors would be.

also about how much total weight in MLV do you think you used?

 

[schmiddr2]

I did not do any DB tests. It's one of those things that requires extra effort and is not front of mind when planning to tear your car apart.

I think the Civic is average quiet as factory. And I don't think the doors are the biggest problems; there are many more sound transmission areas that are just as bad or worse. And the cheap glass/windows is always going to be a problem. Plus the interior seems to transmit vibrations. The real solution would be to take the interior apart and treat each surface.

The reason I did all this is to seal the door (for speakers) and reduce vibrations. I also hoped it would help some with sound.

I think the MLV is 1lb per sq ft.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1lb-Mass-L...327591?hash=item19e82b32e7:g:VnQAAOxyRhBS67XA

 

[KYRGYZ]

I did half of my car, doors, trunk, rear under seat... great results!

 

[KYRGYZ]

Wanted to see if anyone did this and noticed a difference. Trying to come up for little projects to do on the car ?

Wanted to know if its something I could do myself or if it was too time-intensive.

What deadner did you guys use?

https://www.instagram.com/esenbek_aliev/ scroll down to see what I did, I also did my van the same way and more stuff to Civic in terms of sound deadening, just didn't document it

 

[seed3540]

How many square ft would someone need for the hatch floor?

 

[KYRGYZ]

How many square ft would someone need for the hatch floor?

I bought 50sq ft kilmat and that was enough to do the entire trunk and front doors on my 4 door, I can imagine it should be more than enough for hatchback if you only do trunk area, including trunk lid and all plastic

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