Some questions about factory amp and speaker/sub upgrades [2016 Coupe EX-L]

[Skyancez123]

Hi all,

I've been lurking here for a while now trying to gain an understanding of the Civic's "premium" sound system so I can make some informed decisions about upgrading. My understanding is that the amp distributes a separate line for each speaker (i.e. front left tweeter has its own line, front left door speaker has its own line, etc) and the signals are already all separated out.

That said, my understanding is that if I buy new speakers I won't be able to use the crossover since the signals are already separated out from the amp. I'd really like to be able to use the crossover since the way Honda has the signals distributed likely does not match the ideal range for the speakers I'm buying. Basically I just want to make sure my new tweeters and drivers are receiving the signals they are spec'd for, not the signal the factory speakers were receiving.

Am I correct in seeing this as a problem? If so are there any workarounds/hardware I could use to overcome this?

For context, I'm looking to upgrade the front speakers to the Focal PS165V1, remove the factory sub and install a JL CP108LG-W3v3 8" ported sub in the trunk. I'm going to pay to have the work done, I just want to be as informed as possible. If you all have any guidance I would greatly appreciate it.

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[SiLee207]

I’m in the same boat. Currently trying to install speakers. From my understanding you need a summing device and DSP. Audison seems to be the best recommendation as to integrating with factory head unit. The artisan route will do everything with one unit. Whereas you can achieve the samThe artisan route will do everything with one unit. Whereas you can achieve a similar outcome using multiple devices.. Audison Is expensive but it will summ, deequalize and then give you full control over each channel.

 

[shoegazer]

Not to complicate things...

But my experience is that the factory system *seems* to have this dynamic processing that changes with volume and the general spectrum of the input signal. So trying to dial-in something with a test tone, for example, is pointless once you start playing a podcast. The podcast EQ is pointless once you start playing Sinatra. Sinatra doesn't work with Miami Bass. Etc.

A lot of folks have found happiness with the various devices. But, IMO, anything that pads down a speaker level signal to pre-amp levels and back again is too noisy for me.

My only caution and reason for posting is to simply warn of spending a ton of money based on car stereo experience in the past. Honda has made this a 'one size fits all' system that's designed to make everything sound 'basically okay' at reasonable volumes. But that same processing gets in the way when you try to go beyond its intended range, in my experience.

I traded my 2019 Sport for a 2018 LX specifically so I could avoid that stereo (and the Sensing).

 

[Skyancez123]

Not to complicate things...

But my experience is that the factory system *seems* to have this dynamic processing that changes with volume and the general spectrum of the input signal. So trying to dial-in something with a test tone, for example, is pointless once you start playing a podcast. The podcast EQ is pointless once you start playing Sinatra. Sinatra doesn't work with Miami Bass. Etc.

A lot of folks have found happiness with the various devices. But, IMO, anything that pads down a speaker level signal to pre-amp levels and back again is too noisy for me.

My only caution and reason for posting is to simply warn of spending a ton of money based on car stereo experience in the past. Honda has made this a 'one size fits all' system that's designed to make everything sound 'basically okay' at reasonable volumes. But that same processing gets in the way when you try to go beyond its intended range, in my experience.

I traded my 2019 Sport for a 2018 LX specifically so I could avoid that stereo (and the Sensing).

I understand the part about the noise introduced by the LOC --- I had similar reservations when building out my system. I went ahead and pulled the trigger it sounds good, but not great. I don't really perceive any 'noise' per se but I do believe the DSP in the factory amp screws things up. I think in the near future I'll replace the AudioControl LC7i with a DSP/tune.

However it's my understanding that you need to go active with a DSP --- but if my goal is just to flatten out the factory EQ curve, I don't think going fully active is necessary, right? I just wouldn't really be able to adjust timings, curves etc. on a per speaker basis.

Would a product like the JL Fix86 be good for this?

 

[Skyancez123]

Just stumbled upon this bypass harness w/ DSP. I'm not sure the DSP is as full-featured as I would want but I think it would at least resolve the issue with the factory DSP (and retain OEM integration features).

https://axxessinterfaces.com/product/AXDSPX-HN3

Thread discussing the product above: https://www.civicx.com/forum/thread...er-audio-of-sport-touring-type-r.52248/page-3

 

[shoegazer]

I'll let others chime in on the 'best' way to go about all this. I'm an old school, 4 speaker system audio dude. I used to work with time alignment and phase issues in the studio all the time. But I've never been impressed by a car audio system with all those features.

If there's a decent LOC that helps 'undo' all the Honda stuff; I'm all for it. But I've not a great deal of experience personally experimenting with them.

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