Skid Plate Replacement

Cycle_NYC

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So about a week after getting my oil changed, My skid plate is bent and dragging on the ground but I dont trust the mechanic and don't want to pay 400 to get it replaced when the part itself costs around $50 and seems relatively easy to replace myself. The problem is that when I try to find the part sans the underbody shield, I find just about every type but something that fits an Si. Anyone have an Idea where I can get an OEM skid plate by itself? TIA!
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AFAIK for OEM you can only buy the whole assembly including the plastic shroud/aeroshield if you're looking for new and not second-hand.

Here's an OEM source
1643761001163.png


Here's a more durable aftermarket upgrade if you're feeling a bit spendy
1643761045370.png
Thanks! But I’m a bit lost. The diagram up top shows the part with wings of some sort while the more costly aftermarket looks more like my current plate. HoweverX I’m not totally opposed to a used part. Any leads on where to get one of those?
 

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Thanks! But I’m a bit lost. The diagram up top shows the part with wings of some sort while the more costly aftermarket looks more like my current plate. HoweverX I’m not totally opposed to a used part. Any leads on where to get one of those?
The diagram is showing the skid plate with the plastic shroud. As I said, for new OEM parts, they only seem to come as an assembly.
Honda Civic 10th gen Skid Plate Replacement 1643764910774


As for used, check a junkyard or eBay.
 
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The diagram is showing the skid plate with the plastic shroud. As I said, for new OEM parts, they only seem to come as an assembly.
1643764910774.png


As for used, check a junkyard or eBay.
Ohhh.. thanks for clarifying. This is my first attempt to change anything on my car other than a tire so I am very much a babe in the woods. Lol.
 


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Ohhh.. thanks for clarifying. This is my first attempt to change anything on my car other than a tire so I am very much a babe in the woods. Lol.
If you do or want to get into doing your own oil changes, go with the aftermarket plate. You can see doors in the picture that swing down, making removing the drain plug/ filter 100x easier
 
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If you do or want to get into doing your own oil changes, go with the aftermarket plate. You can see doors in the picture that swing down, making removing the drain plug/ filter 100x easier
Thet makes total sense. But at the moment I need to go for the more cost effective option. I do want to get into doing my own regular maintenance though. It seems simple enough and I’m tired of spending 175 each time I go into the mechanic. Is removing the OEM plate that much of a pain?
 

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Thet makes total sense. But at the moment I need to go for the more cost effective option. I do want to get into doing my own regular maintenance though. It seems simple enough and I’m tired of spending 175 each time I go into the mechanic. Is removing the OEM plate that much of a pain?
I do regular oil changes every 3k at a DIY shop. Pay in total less than or around $80. $175 is a rip off tbh, thats robbery. The skid plate comes out with a bunch of twist clips and screws. On a lift, it will take all of Maybe 10 minutes if its your first time going slow. So to answer in short, spend the money IF YOU CAN right now for the plate and save money (in paying someone). I am going to get one in the summer and ik it will be well worth it
 

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Thet makes total sense. But at the moment I need to go for the more cost effective option. I do want to get into doing my own regular maintenance though. It seems simple enough and I’m tired of spending 175 each time I go into the mechanic. Is removing the OEM plate that much of a pain?
$175 for an oil change?! o_O

I spend about $32 on average for Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full synthetic and a Wix XP filter each change.

And, no, there’s just a handful of quarter-turn fasteners and a couple bolts, all of which can be removed with screwdrivers.
 
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$175 for an oil change?! o_O

I spend about $32 on average for Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full synthetic and a Wix XP filter each change.

And, no, there’s just a handful of quarter-turn fasteners and a couple bolts, all of which can be removed with screwdrivers.
my bad. I definitely meant to put 75. Lol. But either way it’s still more than I wanna spend. Then there’s every time I have to get filters changed. It adds up and I feel like I can save a lot of Money if I just learn to do it myself.
 
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LBP

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my bad. I definitely meant to put 75. Lol. But either way it’s still more than I wanna spend. Then there’s every time I have to get filters changed. It adds up and I feel like I can save a lot of Money if I just learn to do it myself.
Oh, okay. $75 is a bit more reasonable, but is still more than you should pay for such a simple procedure. Learning to do basic maintenance on your car pays dividends in the long run.

You can check out some YouTube videos for how to do an oil change, and I believe there may be a thread or two on here. Besides removing the lower engine cover, there's really nothing different about our cars. Obviously, if you have no tools or space to work you'll need to source those, but tools are always a good investment. Go for it!

As for specific oil and filter recommendations, everyone has their preferences and oil threads have a unique way of turning into BITOG warzone cesspits... But if you keep your oil change intervals reasonable and proactive, and stick to name brand full synthetic oils that are the proper weight & spec for your engine you pretty much cannot go wrong. Same for filters - the only recommendation I will give for filters is to avoid the orange FRAM filters. They may not kill your car, but they are not constructed very well and I don't trust them.
 

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6 quarter-turn clips and 2 #3 Phillips screws and the metal cover comes off. Not hard at all. That aftermarket one is pricey asf.
 

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I'd stick with the original factory plate vs the expensive aftermarket one. Removing the original plate for an oil change, allows you to have a good visual inspection of the entire underside. This will allow you to spot any potential leaks or other issues, that would otherwise go undetected until in a more advanced state. There is a reason Honda designed it that way & it wasn't to make it difficult for the person servicing the car. HTH
 

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I had the same issue at one point and you can only imagine my face while inside a local dealership when they told me I have to buy the whole under-body assembly. I asked if they were going to let me use one of their lifts to put it on since there is obviously no way to transport it as a whole and the only part I needed would fit in the car and not force me to have them put it on.

They agreed to only charge me for the part and put it on, but damn was I still pissed.
 

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