Silvers neomax double adjustable coilovers review

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I really just want more oversteer and to be able to steer with the throttle. It seems like the only way I can get it even pitched a little is left foot braking.
Don't really need/want all the adjustments(have full coil/arms setup on my DC2)but if it's something that'll help get my FC1 a Lil more attitude(get it) diving into a corner it might be "worth it".
With my fortune setup on the track I was able to throttle steer just going hard into a turn, once the weight transferred it set up very nice for throttle steering, there were a few turns at Watkins Glen I was able to trailbrake into the turn to get the weight to transfer and throttle steer out with a nice bit of oversteer, the best feeling in the world! With these silvers being more firm it set up nicely on the off ramp yesterday, should be that much better next time on the track.
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Cool, I'm not looking to take FC1 on track, but off/on ramps are my bread n butter and there's a couple I use locally for suspension tuning(7/10ths). What's the minimum drop on the coils? I'd prefer a close to stock height as the Cali freeways are an exercise in dodging & rally is what I actually like for a street setup.
 
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Cool, I'm not looking to take FC1 on track, but off/on ramps are my bread n butter and there's a couple I use locally for suspension tuning(7/10ths). What's the minimum drop on the coils? I'd prefer a close to stock height as the Cali freeways are an exercise in dodging & rally is what I actually like for a street setup.
I haven't found out yest on the silvers but the fortune auto would raise to maybe .5" lower than stock, the silvers look like they might go to stock height since I'm about
.25" higher now than the fortune setup with alot of room to go up.
 
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Cool, I'm not looking to take FC1 on track, but off/on ramps are my bread n butter and there's a couple I use locally for suspension tuning(7/10ths). What's the minimum drop on the coils? I'd prefer a close to stock height as the Cali freeways are an exercise in dodging & rally is what I actually like for a street setup.
Did you have an aftermarket rear sway bar on your fc1?
 


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Not yet it's on my list but I like to buy everything & install in one go(makes my life easier).

My Integra needs an engine rebuild so that's eating up my carparts budget for the foreseeable future.
 
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Not yet it's on my list but I like to buy everything & install in one go(makes my life easier).

My Integra needs an engine rebuild so that's eating up my carparts budget for the foreseeable future.
Understood! When you do go for a rear sway bar the rv6 bar really helped get my backend to want to come around and follow the front, rotation was much more noticable. The big whiteline 26mm bar did the same.
 
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The beauty of adjustable dampening is you can make it stiffer with dampening rather than a stiffer spring. If have the rear shocks a bit stiffer currently and the back is very tight, along with the other rear suspension parts it feels great. The same spring combo on track had great balance, a bit of oversteer for great weight transfer without wanting to come around. Can't wait to try this setup on track.
Great review! I just wanted to chime in with a few thoughts as I am an big advocate for good suspension setups and a good setup makes all the difference in how a car performs on track.

Dampers are spring control devices. Chassis roll and pitch is controlled by the spring (both coil and sway bar). Adjusting the damper to be stiffer will not create the same effect as using a stiffer spring. The damper's intended purpose is to maximize grip for its tire by controlling the spring's compression and rebound, this allows the tire to remain optimally loaded and keep grip from being lost. If the vehicle is understeering or oversteering in an undesirable manner this should be first addressed with a spring change (either through different coil springs or sway bar settings). Adjusting dampers to affect how the chassis rolls or pitches (usually considered low speed scenarios) will usually lose grip in situations like bumps, curbing, or fast transitions (usually considered high speed scenarios). Often you can change spring rates by 2-3k and the damper will still control the spring without needing to be revalved, so there is a decent amount of flexibility to fine tune things.

As for springs rates on the 10th gen specifically, the rate split used from the factory is because of the motion ratio that the spring experiences by being in the middle of the control arm. This effectively creates a lever arm for the wheel to work against the spring, which lowers the effective spring rate at the wheel. By using a higher rate spring it brings the rear wheel rate to be closer to the front wheel rate. The factory spring rates are hilariously soft, but that's pretty par for the course with mass produced economy vehicles.

Generally speaking, on FWD cars it is desirable to use stiffer rear springs for a few reasons. First, it helps counter the understeer tendencies for FWD cars, resulting in a more neutral handling car. Also, it reduces squat under acceleration, which helps keep weight on the front tires thus reducing the likelihood of wheelspin. And it allows the rear suspension of the car to operate at a higher frequency, which basically means that it will recover from undulations in less time, allowing it to stay synchronized with the front suspension.

On my 10th gen I have 10k front springs and 14k rear springs. Though I just swapped the rear springs to a 13.5k spring that's an inch taller because my perches were at max height and the car needs to be a bit higher in the rear than where it was to keep geometry happy. Most coilovers use standard coilover springs, almost all of them are either 60mm, 65mm or 2.5" ID springs. You can buy alternate springs in a variety of lengths and rates from the 3 largest spring companies (Eibach, Hyperco, Swift) for a pretty reasonable price so don't hesitate to change them out to figure out where things feel best!

I've been considering getting a set of the Silver's for my car as well as I'd like to move to a 2 way and they seem to be the only company that currently offers an OTS 2 way for the 10th gen. Glad to hear your experience has been positive!

Looking forward to your track impressions :)
 
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Great review! I just wanted to chime in with a few thoughts as I am an big advocate for good suspension setups and a good setup makes all the difference in how a car performs on track.

Dampers are spring control devices. Chassis roll and pitch is controlled by the spring (both coil and sway bar). Adjusting the damper to be stiffer will not create the same effect as using a stiffer spring. The damper's intended purpose is to maximize grip for its tire by controlling the spring's compression and rebound, this allows the tire to remain optimally loaded and keep grip from being lost. If the vehicle is understeering or oversteering in an undesirable manner this should be first addressed with a spring change (either through different coil springs or sway bar settings). Adjusting dampers to affect how the chassis rolls or pitches (usually considered low speed scenarios) will usually lose grip in situations like bumps, curbing, or fast transitions (usually considered high speed scenarios). Often you can change spring rates by 2-3k and the damper will still control the spring without needing to be revalved, so there is a decent amount of flexibility to fine tune things.

As for springs rates on the 10th gen specifically, the rate split used from the factory is because of the motion ratio that the spring experiences by being in the middle of the control arm. This effectively creates a lever arm for the wheel to work against the spring, which lowers the effective spring rate at the wheel. By using a higher rate spring it brings the rear wheel rate to be closer to the front wheel rate. The factory spring rates are hilariously soft, but that's pretty par for the course with mass produced economy vehicles.

Generally speaking, on FWD cars it is desirable to use stiffer rear springs for a few reasons. First, it helps counter the understeer tendencies for FWD cars, resulting in a more neutral handling car. Also, it reduces squat under acceleration, which helps keep weight on the front tires thus reducing the likelihood of wheelspin. And it allows the rear suspension of the car to operate at a higher frequency, which basically means that it will recover from undulations in less time, allowing it to stay synchronized with the front suspension.

On my 10th gen I have 10k front springs and 14k rear springs. Though I just swapped the rear springs to a 13.5k spring that's an inch taller because my perches were at max height and the car needs to be a bit higher in the rear than where it was to keep geometry happy. Most coilovers use standard coilover springs, almost all of them are either 60mm, 65mm or 2.5" ID springs. You can buy alternate springs in a variety of lengths and rates from the 3 largest spring companies (Eibach, Hyperco, Swift) for a pretty reasonable price so don't hesitate to change them out to figure out where things feel best!

I've been considering getting a set of the Silver's for my car as well as I'd like to move to a 2 way and they seem to be the only company that currently offers an OTS 2 way for the 10th gen. Glad to hear your experience has been positive!

Looking forward to your track impressions :)
Thank you! Great info for sure! So far feels excellent on the street but the track will be the true test. The backend currently feels good with the springs and rv6 sway bar on stiff setting. With the fortune setup on track I did not experience any understeer and once I started pushing harder at the end of the weekend the backend was rotating nicely and would allow for great throttle steering. I'm sure as I push harder I will could certainly find a stiffer rear spring would be needed, I stayed with the same rate with the silvers because of how it did workout.
Can only do so much on the street more trying to dial in for comfort. Will update once I do go back to the track!

Your experience and advice is appreciated!
 


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Great review! I just wanted to chime in with a few thoughts as I am an big advocate for good suspension setups and a good setup makes all the difference in how a car performs on track.

Dampers are spring control devices. Chassis roll and pitch is controlled by the spring (both coil and sway bar). Adjusting the damper to be stiffer will not create the same effect as using a stiffer spring. The damper's intended purpose is to maximize grip for its tire by controlling the spring's compression and rebound, this allows the tire to remain optimally loaded and keep grip from being lost. If the vehicle is understeering or oversteering in an undesirable manner this should be first addressed with a spring change (either through different coil springs or sway bar settings). Adjusting dampers to affect how the chassis rolls or pitches (usually considered low speed scenarios) will usually lose grip in situations like bumps, curbing, or fast transitions (usually considered high speed scenarios). Often you can change spring rates by 2-3k and the damper will still control the spring without needing to be revalved, so there is a decent amount of flexibility to fine tune things.

As for springs rates on the 10th gen specifically, the rate split used from the factory is because of the motion ratio that the spring experiences by being in the middle of the control arm. This effectively creates a lever arm for the wheel to work against the spring, which lowers the effective spring rate at the wheel. By using a higher rate spring it brings the rear wheel rate to be closer to the front wheel rate. The factory spring rates are hilariously soft, but that's pretty par for the course with mass produced economy vehicles.

Generally speaking, on FWD cars it is desirable to use stiffer rear springs for a few reasons. First, it helps counter the understeer tendencies for FWD cars, resulting in a more neutral handling car. Also, it reduces squat under acceleration, which helps keep weight on the front tires thus reducing the likelihood of wheelspin. And it allows the rear suspension of the car to operate at a higher frequency, which basically means that it will recover from undulations in less time, allowing it to stay synchronized with the front suspension.

On my 10th gen I have 10k front springs and 14k rear springs. Though I just swapped the rear springs to a 13.5k spring that's an inch taller because my perches were at max height and the car needs to be a bit higher in the rear than where it was to keep geometry happy. Most coilovers use standard coilover springs, almost all of them are either 60mm, 65mm or 2.5" ID springs. You can buy alternate springs in a variety of lengths and rates from the 3 largest spring companies (Eibach, Hyperco, Swift) for a pretty reasonable price so don't hesitate to change them out to figure out where things feel best!

I've been considering getting a set of the Silver's for my car as well as I'd like to move to a 2 way and they seem to be the only company that currently offers an OTS 2 way for the 10th gen. Glad to hear your experience has been positive!

Looking forward to your track impressions :)
I am going to a small local track at the end of June, will see how it does. Not a high speed track but a bunch of tighter turns. Then in oct. There is an event at new jersey motorsport park I'm hoping I can get to.
 
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Thank you! Great info for sure! So far feels excellent on the street but the track will be the true test. The backend currently feels good with the springs and rv6 sway bar on stiff setting. With the fortune setup on track I did not experience any understeer and once I started pushing harder at the end of the weekend the backend was rotating nicely and would allow for great throttle steering. I'm sure as I push harder I will could certainly find a stiffer rear spring would be needed, I stayed with the same rate with the silvers because of how it did workout.
Can only do so much on the street more trying to dial in for comfort. Will update once I do go back to the track!

Your experience and advice is appreciated!
I also forgot to mention that there is no "perfect all encompassing setup" either. Different driver preferences will drive different spring rate preferences and setup changes. Then when you couple driver differences with different tracks the "right" amount of setups gets huge haha.

I am liking the 10k/14k setup on my car but I also try to trail brake as little as possible. I have a GD Honda Fit that I track occasionally and got very used to trail braking that car a lot to help it rotate. Took me a couple sessions (and spins😂) at my local track with the Civic work that habit out of my driving.

I'm hoping maybe next year to make it out to NJMP if Gridlife goes there again. I'm still debating going to their Limerock event this year.
 
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I also forgot to mention that there is no "perfect all encompassing setup" either. Different driver preferences will drive different spring rate preferences and setup changes. Then when you couple driver differences with different tracks the "right" amount of setups gets huge haha.

I am liking the 10k/14k setup on my car but I also try to trail brake as little as possible. I have a GD Honda Fit that I track occasionally and got very used to trail braking that car a lot to help it rotate. Took me a couple sessions (and spins😂) at my local track with the Civic work that habit out of my driving.

I'm hoping maybe next year to make it out to NJMP if Gridlife goes there again. I'm still debating going to their Limerock event this year.
Where are you located?
 
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