Si Front Sway Bar on Hatch?

Fit2Hatch

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If there is a gap between the endlink stud and the swaybar hole, you can try tightening the nut further down so it doesn’t slip. It will take more than the Honda OEM torque spec. Also recommend removing any preload on the swaybar using the adjustable links.
There is no excess play between sway bar and end link, I would say just normal manufacturing clearance. If there was excessive clearance, I am capable of making collar spacer to ensure a slide fit, but it was unnecessary. I also use small extension tube over combination wrench when tighten end link nut to make sure they are tight, and they are. Thats my habit when comes to tighten end link nuts.

I had both rear wheels sitting on equal height block during installation to ensure no preload when installing sway bar and adjusting end links, so good there as well.

I think white line sells lateral locks for sway bars so the bushings can’t move. I’m not sure if that’s what they are used for though.
26 mm kit comes with lateral locks and I am using them, it is effective keeping bar center, and not sliding side to side between bushing blocks.

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One aspect caught me by surprise is how much play between greaseless bushing and sway bar. The best
way to describe it is like having a worn out set of bushings, and the sound it makes is much the same. The 4 layer teflon tape I put on the interface certainly helped, but that's bandaid, to say the least.

I suppose some people live with it, because most say 26 mm Whiteline is not for everybody. In my inquiry, Whiteline did say 26 mm is for motorsport, it will be more noisy. However, I did point out the discrepant clearance between bar and bushing. So, Whiteline agreed on sending solid bushing for me to try, so, I'll see.


On another note, I installed a set of Whiteline ALK a few weeks ago. It also incorporates greaseless bushing, but bushing is not a loose fit, nor slid fit but rather, a press on fit. Installation Instruction also include using their supplied grease. I must say, it is without any perceptible noise.
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There is no excess play between sway bar and end link, I would say just normal manufacturing clearance. If there was excessive clearance, I am capable of making collar spacer to ensure a slide fit, but it was unnecessary. I also use small extension tube over combination wrench when tighten end link nut to make sure they are tight, and they are. Thats my habit when comes to tighten end link nuts.

I had both rear wheels sitting on equal height block during installation to ensure no preload when installing sway bar and adjusting end links, so good there as well.



26 mm kit comes with lateral locks and I am using them, it is effective keeping bar center, and not sliding side to side between bushing blocks.

-----

One aspect caught me by surprise is how much play between greaseless bushing and sway bar. The best
way to describe it is like having a worn out set of bushings, and the sound it makes is much the same. The 4 layer teflon tape I put on the interface certainly helped, but that's bandaid, to say the least.

I suppose some people live with it, because most say 26 mm Whiteline is not for everybody. In my inquiry, Whiteline did say 26 mm is for motorsport, it will be more noisy. However, I did point out the discrepant clearance between bar and bushing. So, Whiteline agreed on sending solid bushing for me to try, so, I'll see.


On another note, I installed a set of Whiteline ALK a few weeks ago. It also incorporates greaseless bushing, but bushing is not a loose fit, nor slid fit but rather, a press on fit. Installation Instruction also include using their supplied grease. I must say, it is without any perceptible noise.
Would you say clunking is inevitable on these bars over time no matter how much grease you use initially? Also how would you apply the Teflon tape?
 

Fit2Hatch

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Would you say clunking is inevitable on these bars over time no matter how much grease you use initially? Also how would you apply the Teflon tape?
Answer your second question first. Wrap teflon tape around area directly supported by bracket. In my case, required 4 layer to eliminate the gap. Permanent better fix, in my opinion, in order to eliminate the differential gap would be making barrel spacer out of split/collared delrin/metal for a proper "fit" without sliding out.
But for simplicity, and Whiteline is treating this as warranty, I am willing to try Whiteline's traditional poly bushing when it becomes available. So, in the mean time, I live with teflon tape!

Regarding clunking over time, yes! That is with traditional rubber bushing + grease! Poly bushing + grease would last much longer!

However, on my C6's after market F/R sway bar, poly bushing was impregnated with lubricant during mfg., and maker strongly urge user not to apply grease, and one member in Corvette Forum didn't pay attention, greased it and it was squeaking after couple of weeks. I pointed out to him and he degreased the bushings and never compliant again. My C6's impregnated bushing been on the car since '09 and it is still noise free!
 
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Answer your second question first. Wrap teflon tape around area directly supported by bracket. In my case, required 4 layer to eliminate the gap. Permanent better fix, in my opinion, in order to eliminate the differential gap would be making barrel spacer out of split/collared delrin/metal for a proper "fit" without sliding out.
But for simplicity, and Whiteline is treating this as warranty, I am willing to try Whiteline's traditional poly bushing when it becomes available. So, in the mean time, I live with teflon tape!

Regarding clunking over time, yes! That is with traditional rubber bushing + grease! Poly bushing + grease would last much longer!

However, on my C6's after market F/R sway bar, poly bushing was impregnated with lubricant during mfg., and maker strongly urge user not to apply grease, and one member in Corvette Forum didn't pay attention, greased it and it was squeaking after couple of weeks. I pointed out to him and he degreased the bushings and never compliant again. My C6's impregnated bushing been on the car since '09 and it is still noise free!
Appreciate the info! Got me thinking about these sway bars now lol
 
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How does Whiteline Front 27mm Sway bar Soft Setting with OEM TypeR 20.5mm Rear Sway Bar sound? Or will it be better with the Whiteline 22mm Rear?
 

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How does Whiteline Front 27mm Sway bar Soft Setting with OEM TypeR 20.5mm Rear Sway Bar sound? Or will it be better with the Whiteline 22mm Rear?
Eibach or Whiteline rsb on soft and call it a day.
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