Shifting with rev hang

captlwr

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More on what I posted earlier about Rev Hang - one of the other Members mentioned turning OFF the Anti-Skid Programming

I do that regularly and it DOES in fact lessen the Rev Hang plus makes the engine more responsive - again these are MY observations based on my experience.

Larry





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MuffinMcFluffin

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More on what I posted earlier about Rev Hang - one of the other Members mentioned turning OFF the Anti-Skid Programming

I do that regularly and it DOES in fact lessen the Rev Hang plus makes the engine more responsive - again these are MY observations based on my experience.

Larry
Is that in a tuner, or is that a car function/option?
 

captlwr

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Is that in a tuner, or is that a car function/option?
That is a Car Function - it's the Button right above the TPS Function Setting Button on Left side of Dashboard - press and hold it for about 2 seconds and an Amber Light will show it's turned OFF - on every Civic dashboard.
 

DRuby

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You can’t do that. The ktuner and hondata have to be locked to your vehicle to make any adjustments or tunes. You’d have to revert to stock and then unlock the unit and give it back to the person who let you borrow it. They programmed it well, otherwise people would be letting people borrow their tuners left and right lol.
The ktuner dealer I spoke with wasn't clear about locking things to the car. Thank for the clarification.
 

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The ktuner dealer I spoke with wasn't clear about locking things to the car. Thank for the clarification.
You may be able to go through a local tuner but I’m not sure what their rates would be to do it. Worth a shot!
 

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Personally - my experience in driving Manuals for over 50 years is that you will never "get used to" the Honda Rev Hang Program. I had it much more in my 2012 Civic Si than I do in my 2018 Civic HB Sport. In the 2018 it seems to be programmed in at a much higher RPM and you really have to "snap" your foot OFF the gas when shifting above 4500 RPM to control it, at least in MY current car. I spent the $650+ for a Hondata Tool and Reflash on my 2012 and it DID work...........for a time - but reality is that the ECU will "learn back" it's initial Programming and you'll have to keep doing a Reflash every few months of driving - today's Manufacturers do not LIKE Manuals because of CAFE Standards and try to do anything they can to "burn off" excess Fuel, hence the Honda Rev-hang..............Larry
Totally and completely agree with this... I've been driving a manual since I was 15 (I'm 46) and the rev hang on this car is awful. No matter how early I take my foot off the gas BEFORE pressing in the clutch, the revs always climb just a bit. 2 ---> 3 and 3 ---> 4 seem to be the worst. No other manual vehicle I have ever driven behaves this way. And it's not just me; my GF who's 50 and also has driven manuals most of her life comments how annoying it is. I hate to spend $500 just to disable that but damn, I might have to. Who in their right mind thought this was a viable solution to a supposed 'problem' that is most likely immeasurable, especially since true manual transmissions are a dying breed.
 

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Totally and completely agree with this... I've been driving a manual since I was 15 (I'm 46) and the rev hang on this car is awful. No matter how early I take my foot off the gas BEFORE pressing in the clutch, the revs always climb just a bit. 2 ---> 3 and 3 ---> 4 seem to be the worst. No other manual vehicle I have ever driven behaves this way. And it's not just me; my GF who's 50 and also has driven manuals most of her life comments how annoying it is. I hate to spend $500 just to disable that but damn, I might have to. Who in their right mind thought this was a viable solution to a supposed 'problem' that is most likely immeasurable, especially since true manual transmissions are a dying breed.
Thanks to the posting below for the diagram I'm talking about here.

I have been wondering about the two micro-switches that are mounted on the clutch brackets. One enables the starting routine to make sure the clutch is fully depressed. I've been posting about adjusting that so I don't have to press the clutch to the firewall to start up.
Now this post has me wondering about the second switch that is closed while the clutch isn't pressed. I'm thinking this switch signals to the computer when the clutch is being disengaged during shifting. If that switch is out of the circuit, maybe the rev-hang computer routine with think you're already shifting and dropping the revs ASAP.
Something to look into after I fix the clutch starting issue.
Woah, i am 32 Years Old, and i literally pulled my side muscle when i tried looking for it the first time.

The disconnect point needs 2 hands to...
 
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MuffinMcFluffin

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Okay, so now that I have had the car for four days, I'm a bit confused about this thing while shifting.

So am I supposed to hold the clutch in all the way until the RPM amount where the next gear would engage when upshifting? Say I go from 2nd gear @ 3k RPM to 3rd gear @ 2k RPM. Do I have to hold it down until the revs hit 2k essentially?

Because I tell ya, it takes way longer than a second to make happen. It's impossible to make "quick shifts" like this. I can barely even accelerate after that (granted, I am still "breaking it in" and am barely hitting the throttle at all, but I slow to a crawl at that point as well... but that's for another thread).

Right now, I'm basically doing this when wanting to shift:

- Let off the gas for half a second before hitting the clutch.
- Holding in the clutch and slowly shifting.
- Before the next engage point on the RPM, I basically find my footing like I would accelerating from a stop in 1st gear until it hits.
- Slowly let off the clutch.

Don't get me wrong, shifts are smooth... but it takes a long time to do and I'm slowly doing it. I feel I can't shift "normally" unless I want to jerk all aorund on each shift as a result of the RPM's not going down fast enough.

Thanks all.
 

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Yeah, before I ever drove the car I had read all about this horrible rev hang and was worried it would be some big annoying problem... Then I got the car and, honestly, I don't really even know what all the bitching is about. It not even something I would notice and certainly not anything that has required me to change the way I drive a manual to compensate for it.
If there's something I've learned from my time on this forum it's that people complain about everything and blow everything out of proportion.
 

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Okay, so now that I have had the car for four days, I'm a bit confused about this thing while shifting.

So am I supposed to hold the clutch in all the way until the RPM amount where the next gear would engage when upshifting? Say I go from 2nd gear @ 3k RPM to 3rd gear @ 2k RPM. Do I have to hold it down until the revs hit 2k essentially?

Because I tell ya, it takes way longer than a second to make happen. It's impossible to make "quick shifts" like this. I can barely even accelerate after that (granted, I am still "breaking it in" and am barely hitting the throttle at all, but I slow to a crawl at that point as well... but that's for another thread).

Right now, I'm basically doing this when wanting to shift:

- Let off the gas for half a second before hitting the clutch.
- Holding in the clutch and slowly shifting.
- Before the next engage point on the RPM, I basically find my footing like I would accelerating from a stop in 1st gear until it hits.
- Slowly let off the clutch.

Don't get me wrong, shifts are smooth... but it takes a long time to do and I'm slowly doing it. I feel I can't shift "normally" unless I want to jerk all aorund on each shift as a result of the RPM's not going down fast enough.

Thanks all.
The best way to treat your clutch during upshifts is to wait for the revs to drop. It's painfully long in this car, partly due to rev hang and partly due to the heavy flywheel. The rev hang delete from KTuner/FlashPro is a relief, but you still have to deal with slow-dropping revs afterward because they're separate problems. The clutch delay valve inside the slave cylinder adds to this problem by making clutch engagement really awkward.

You can dump your clutch to force the revs to drop for the next gear. A lot here do that. It's a viable way to bypass the problem, but don't let anyone fool you into thinking it's not a shock to the car.
 
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MuffinMcFluffin

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^ Thanks. I'll test out a clutch-dump sometime this morning and feel out the effects, but yeah I don't really want to play too fast-and-loose with this car right now either. It's brand new and I want a decade out of this thing at least!

If there's something I've learned from my time on this forum it's that people complain about everything and blow everything out of proportion.
So, it's all in my head then? I can drive like I had driven my other manual for 14 years?

I don't think so. I drive that way and I'll herk-and-jerk every shift. The revs don't get down fast enough and to compensate it will have effects to my driving, perhaps even to the drivetrain.
 

Lukifer

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So, it's all in my head then?
No, its there... enough people have confirmed that. But I never would have noticed it if people weren't making such a fuss about it. It's only a problem for the tuners / modders who want the car to be better than it is.

I can drive like I had driven my other manual for 14 years? I don't think so. I drive that way and I'll herk-and-jerk every shift. The revs don't get down fast enough and to compensate it will have effects to my driving, perhaps even to the drivetrain.
I have zero problems driving this car fast, quick shifting, barking the tires into second gear and staying in the power band without jerking it all over the place.
 
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MuffinMcFluffin

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No, its there... enough people have confirmed that. But I never would have noticed it if people weren't making such a fuss about it. It's only a problem for the tuners / modders who want the car to be better than it is.
All that being said, tuners would normally disable rev hang anyway so it technically shouldn't be an issue for them, yes?

I have zero problems driving this car fast, quick shifting, barking the tires into second gear and staying in the power band without jerking it all over the place.
Are you still running stock? I'll have to check this again (yet still, someone is saying it induces shock to the system, unless that's only with the CDV removed).
 

10GenPearlSi

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Go through TSP. Comes with their tune and it’s $449 overnight shipped.
I second that! The TSP Stage 1 tune has three maps. The first map has factory boost levels on normal and sport modes. You can also save 5% with the code CIVIX. Rev hang is already defeated in the tune.
 

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