Shifting into 2nd

amirza786

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It would fall under Sub code 3 of the MM, which doesn't state here what normal interval is (CVT and MT have different intervals). The service department of the dealership I bought it from told me 20K-25K for Honda OEM. I will have to do some more digging to find exactly where I read this

Honda Civic 10th gen Shifting into 2nd MT Chage.JPG


Honda Civic 10th gen Shifting into 2nd MM Subcode.JPG
 
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Honda_RacerX

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2nd gears in hondas are notorious for sucking butt. mine will grinds sometimes if im shifting into 2nd at high rpm while turning.

im running gm synchromesh with friction modifiers. it definitely helps. i do a lot of fun driving with high rpm no loft shifts (hondata).

i dont abuse the trans, but i do shift at higher rpm when i feel the need for speed.

tranny problems is just the nature of the beast when driving a honda.
 

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My 1st to 2nd gear shifts are notchey as well but I only have 250miles on mine so it needs to be broken in .
 

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It would fall under Sub code 3 of the MM, which doesn't state here what normal interval is (CVT and MT have different intervals). The service department of the dealership I bought it from told me 20K-25K for Honda OEM. I will have to do some more digging to find exactly where I read this

MT Chage.JPG


MM Subcode.JPG
It's right there in what you posted. It says 25k if driving under "extreme" conditions. Trust me, every Si owner drives their car in a manner that Honda would consider "extreme." If you ever go over 3k rpm then you are doing "extreme" driving. I agree 100%, dump the OEM, go with AMSOIL, makes a big difference. For the OP, doing the change is easier than doing an oil change. There is a thread on here somewhere about it. Two square-drive 3/8 bolts, one to drain, one to fill. Put two qts back in, boom, done. Takes 15-30 minutes and that includes getting the car off the ground and the shield off the bottom, would add very little time if you are already changing the oil. I dumped my OEM fluid closer to 25k and it was COOKED. Do it sooner rather than later.
 

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It's right there in what you posted. It says 25k if driving under "extreme" conditions. Trust me, every Si owner drives their car in a manner that Honda would consider "extreme." If you ever go over 3k rpm then you are doing "extreme" driving. I agree 100%, dump the OEM, go with AMSOIL, makes a big difference. For the OP, doing the change is easier than doing an oil change. There is a thread on here somewhere about it. Two square-drive 3/8 bolts, one to drain, one to fill. Put two qts back in, boom, done. Takes 15-30 minutes and that includes getting the car off the ground and the shield off the bottom, would add very little time if you are already changing the oil. I dumped my OEM fluid closer to 25k and it was COOKED. Do it sooner rather than later.
I used GM Syncromesh in my old Accord back in the day and that transmission was BUTTER afterwards and that thing had 200K+ miles on it, super excited to change it in my civic. I'm at about 32K miles now so it's definitely time.
 


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Wow that thread exploded. Really appreciate the comments guys! I will dump the OEM fluid this weekend and replace it with AMSOIL Synchromesh, I currently have 26 000km or about 16k miles. I hope it will fix my problem
 

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The rev hang combined with being fwd always makes the 1-2 shift a little rough if you 4k rpm plus on the shift to 2nd.
 

amirza786

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It's right there in what you posted. It says 25k if driving under "extreme" conditions. Trust me, every Si owner drives their car in a manner that Honda would consider "extreme." If you ever go over 3k rpm then you are doing "extreme" driving. I agree 100%, dump the OEM, go with AMSOIL, makes a big difference. For the OP, doing the change is easier than doing an oil change. There is a thread on here somewhere about it. Two square-drive 3/8 bolts, one to drain, one to fill. Put two qts back in, boom, done. Takes 15-30 minutes and that includes getting the car off the ground and the shield off the bottom, would add very little time if you are already changing the oil. I dumped my OEM fluid closer to 25k and it was COOKED. Do it sooner rather than later.
Thanks for confirming. I read it somewhere as well as the dealership telling me. Since the OEM MT fluid is not synthetic (at least fully synthetic) it has a lower viscosity and flashpoint at 100 degrees C than Amsoil Synchromesh, so it makes sense that it would need to be changed sooner
 
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amirza786

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BTW one other thing I want to add is that when shifting you need to allow the synchronizers to do their job. I give it anywhere from .2 to .5 seconds between shifts. I have become so good at it that even when driving aggressively 99 percent of the time my shifts are almost perfect
 
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No complaints about shifting at all, but my throw out bearing room a dump on me at around 3700 miles

Dealer replaced it, along with the clutch since it was brand new, with no questions. I was prepared for a barrage of “have you ever driven a manual before this car?”. I’ve been driving and racing manuals for almost 30 years. My first car was a 1980 Accord sedan 5spd
Could I ask what exactly you told them? that they replace with no questions asked.
 


amirza786

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2nd gears in hondas are notorious for sucking butt. mine will grinds sometimes if im shifting into 2nd at high rpm while turning.

im running gm synchromesh with friction modifiers. it definitely helps. i do a lot of fun driving with high rpm no loft shifts (hondata).

i dont abuse the trans, but i do shift at higher rpm when i feel the need for speed.

tranny problems is just the nature of the beast when driving a honda.
I pretty much shift at high rpm's, between 3500 and 5000 with no issues. Since I have owned this car (June 2018) I only grinded it once, and that was going into third gear and forgetting to hit the clutch (my bad!), other than that, I have not had any gear grinds. Maybe you are mistaking the notchy sound as a grind? The notchy shifting is done on purpose to let you know it went into gear. Also as I stated earlier, you need to allow the synchros to do their job by giving a .2 second delay between shifts
 

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Could I ask what exactly you told them? that they replace with no questions asked.

Sure- when I first heard the faint noise, I knew what it was so I recorded it... same as I did with the screen flicker. Called and described the noise and democratically offered my opinion of it being the throw out bearing. As soon as I pulled into the service bay, the manager and I both agreed that the bearing was the only real thing it could be (grinding noise with clutch depressed). They/he didn’t say a word about anything other than they would call me.

He called a couple hours later and confirmed the failure... and told me they were replacing everything since the car was brand new... I had an Accord Sport as a loaner.

When I picked it up, the tech hacked my shifter bezel, which I didn’t notice until I got home. Called the mgr back, emailed a pic and it was replaced, no questions asked.

Really couldn’t ask for a better dealer so far.
 

Dan9908

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Having worked in the automotive/motorcycle industry back in the day- I’ve found that having a non confrontational attitude or self diagnosis goes a long, long way. However, I know cars and simply suggested that the TOB was really the only part it could be, based on the symptoms, but “you guys are the experts, please let me know. No rush, I have a loaner”
 
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Sure- when I first heard the faint noise, I knew what it was so I recorded it... same as I did with the screen flicker. Called and described the noise and democratically offered my opinion of it being the throw out bearing. As soon as I pulled into the service bay, the manager and I both agreed that the bearing was the only real thing it could be (grinding noise with clutch depressed). They/he didn’t say a word about anything other than they would call me.

He called a couple hours later and confirmed the failure... and told me they were replacing everything since the car was brand new... I had an Accord Sport as a loaner.

When I picked it up, the tech hacked my shifter bezel, which I didn’t notice until I got home. Called the mgr back, emailed a pic and it was replaced, no questions asked.

Really couldn’t ask for a better dealer so far.
Wow thats awesome. Thanks for the reply.
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