Scotty Kilmer on oil dilution

REBELXSi

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So the word around here seems to be to not idle your engine long before driving. Mr 51 years of experience says otherwise.

What's the final word?

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kytos

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I use ktuner to monitor ECT, I wait until it reaches 40ÂşC and start driving carefully to not force the engine but it can warm up faster.
 

KhashTR19

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I use ktuner to monitor ECT, I wait until it reaches 40ÂşC and start driving carefully to not force the engine but it can warm up faster.
Slightly off-topic, I’d like to ask a potentialy ignorent question: what is inherent in the 1.5 liter engine that makes it prone to oil dilution? Why doesn’t the 2.0 (Type R/Accord) seem to be afflicted?
 

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Slightly off-topic, I’d like to ask a potentialy ignorent question: what is inherent in the 1.5 liter engine that makes it prone to oil dilution? Why doesn’t the 2.0 (Type R/Accord) seem to be afflicted?
Primarily because the 1.5 Is direct injection, the 2.0 isn't. Mr "I know everything" is out to lunch on this one, to warm up the engine & transmission properly, start the vehicle, let the idle drop to its first drop point, then drive off gently, especially in a Turbocharged engine, every thing warms up properly and evenly it should, as soon as you have oil pressure, gentle driving until the coolant temp shows normal is just fine, getting oil up to full operating temp usually takes 15-20 minutes.
 


idragmazda

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I use ktuner to monitor ECT, I wait until it reaches 40ÂşC and start driving carefully to not force the engine but it can warm up faster.
I also do this. I usually wait about 60 seconds or 100 F on ECT before I begin driving (the car's idle will adjust; or if you're more techy the AFR on the Type R's will not be a constant 14.7 anymore - it'll start fluctuating). Even then, I am light on the throttle and try stay out of boost until temps get up to about 160F for ECT. Even then, you'll have to remember that engine oil and transmission fluid take longer to warm up than coolant.
 

fenix-silver

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Scotty is a hack. Just drive your car sanely until it reaches operating temp. Sitting and idling is probably worse for fuel dilution as your car will take longer to get to operating temp than by just driving it. The real problem from what I have read isn't the warm up time, it's not driving your car far enough for it to run enough at operating temps for any gas that has bypassed the pistons to get burned off. Short, couple mile trips aren't going to do it.
 

civicls

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Slightly off-topic, I’d like to ask a potentialy ignorent question: what is inherent in the 1.5 liter engine that makes it prone to oil dilution? Why doesn’t the 2.0 (Type R/Accord) seem to be afflicted?
Primarily because the 1.5 Is direct injection, the 2.0 isn't. Mr "I know everything" is out to lunch on this one, to warm up the engine & transmission properly, start the vehicle, let the idle drop to its first drop point, then drive off gently, especially in a Turbocharged engine, every thing warms up properly and evenly it should, as soon as you have oil pressure, gentle driving until the coolant temp shows normal is just fine, getting oil up to full operating temp usually takes 15-20 minutes.
You obviously do not know what you are talking about :rant:;)
This is mosty a software problem where too much fuel is injected upon cold start-up.
 

PhilF

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You obviously do not know what you are talking about :rant:;)
This is mosty a software problem where too much fuel is injected upon cold start-up.
Understand the software issue, that's what the TSB addresses, along with several other related problems, what I was referring to was letting ANY car sit and idle until it's "warmed up" is not good protocol, 60-90 seconds and then gently driving until both engine & transmission are at operational temperature is far better and easier on both than any extended engine-only warmup. As soon as oil pressure is "up", driving warms up everything faster & more uniformly. A while back, when engines had carburetors & chokes, even the pull-offs still let the engine idle with an over-rich mixture which I'm sure caused cylinder wash-down and I'm sure, resulting oil dilution, which the motor oils of the period were far less able to cope with, probably why OCI's were much shorter.
 


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Primarily because the 1.5 Is direct injection, the 2.0 isn't. Mr "I know everything" is out to lunch on this one, to warm up the engine & transmission properly, start the vehicle, let the idle drop to its first drop point, then drive off gently, especially in a Turbocharged engine, every thing warms up properly and evenly it should, as soon as you have oil pressure, gentle driving until the coolant temp shows normal is just fine, getting oil up to full operating temp usually takes 15-20 minutes.
the 2.0 (type r/accord) is direct injected .. :bonk:
 

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Understand the software issue, that's what the TSB addresses, along with several other related problems, what I was referring to was letting ANY car sit and idle until it's "warmed up" is not good protocol, 60-90 seconds and then gently driving until both engine & transmission are at operational temperature is far better and easier on both than any extended engine-only warmup. As soon as oil pressure is "up", driving warms up everything faster & more uniformly. A while back, when engines had carburetors & chokes, even the pull-offs still let the engine idle with an over-rich mixture which I'm sure caused cylinder wash-down and I'm sure, resulting oil dilution, which the motor oils of the period were far less able to cope with, probably why OCI's were much shorter.
I let my car idle for about 20 minutes when it's cold before I drive and I have not had any problems with my oil.
And not sure what your talking about idling carburetor engines because I have idled the older cars for an hour or more and never hurt any of the ones I owned
 

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Civics4Ever

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So many 1.5T breaking down now from fuel in the oil. Fkn blah, blah, blah. There are plenty out there with over 100k miles.
 
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REBELXSi

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So many 1.5T breaking down now from fuel in the oil. Fkn blah, blah, blah. There are plenty out there with over 100k miles.
If it wasn't a problem, Honda wouldn't have done recalls in Asia or TSBs in North America. Sure, there aren't dead Hondas all over the highway but if I could get some solid info that would help my car go an extra few years then I'm all for it.
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