2.0L RV6 Looking for 2.0L Downpipe BETA Testers

mvela

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I thought that too, but when I noticed that the side of my airbox lid had melted, it made me reconsider just how much heat that downpipe puts out.

The exhaust started putting out more heat after installing a bigger front pipe, which is also coated and wrapped. After thoroughly testing with an infrared thermometer, the bellmouth was the final culprit, being the only part of the exhaust that was unwrapped. I think all of the heat shielding might have caused a hot spot there. I’ve had zero issues since installing the blanket.

The intake is a custom piece I made, ironically because the stock airbox lid had melted, which gave me the idea. So I bought another one and cut the MAF housing out of it. I got some 2.75” aluminum pipe bends and cut up the AEM intake that I had sitting in the shed.

209E2814-DADC-48E7-A513-B9ABD2315703.jpeg


It draws air from the fenderwell, and never gets heat soaked. IAT’s are never more than 1* above ambient. Huge increase in torque and throttle response below 4k rpm’s. Superior to stock and aftermarket intakes in every way.
Are you saying that the downpipe was getting so hot that it was melting your stock airbox? I have a stock airbox and was thinking about getting one of the catted downpipes but I don’t want to melt anything. And I’m not positive about this but I would imagine a catted downpipe might get hotter than a non-catted downpipe. I have no proof of this of course. I’m just guessing it would be. Because I got my finger on the trigger for the catted downpipe but doing as much research as I can before I jump on it
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Are you saying that the downpipe was getting so hot that it was melting your stock airbox? I have a stock airbox and was thinking about getting one of the catted downpipes but I don’t want to melt anything. And I’m not positive about this but I would imagine a catted downpipe might get hotter than a non-catted downpipe. I have no proof of this of course. I’m just guessing it would be. Because I got my finger on the trigger for the catted downpipe but doing as much research as I can before I jump on it
We make products that are much closer to plastic parts without anything melting. There is a huge air gap between downpipe and airbox. If you are concerned we do offer ceramic coating which is a thermal barrier.
 

mvela

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We make products that are much closer to plastic parts without anything melting. There is a huge air gap between downpipe and airbox. If you are concerned we do offer ceramic coating which is a thermal barrier.
Yes I would definitely get the ceramic coating for two reasons: for the look, and for the thermal barrier. I am really serious about ordering the catted version. I just don’t want to run into any issues I would regret. I don’t plan on upgrading my factory airbox so I just didn’t want it to melt on me. But if this is not an issue then I will definitely order one
 

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Pipe installed.

Performance? It's not the same as catless. Catless has weakened low end, but beast across 40-80mph. The high flow cat has a much cleaner powerband from 0-100. Definitely a lot better than stock, no question there. Still, I'm missing that almost perfectly fluid acceleration in the midband.

The sound, holy shit, the timbre of the exhaust is perfectly balanced with my intake. It sounds wonderful compared to catless, which was a bit tinny, and pretty loud comparatively. This is clean, aggressive, balanced.

Smell? None.

Check engine light? None so far. Ran it a few times up to 100mph. Will follow up if that changes at all.

Honda Civic 10th gen RV6 Looking for 2.0L Downpipe BETA Testers 20190925_185652


Honda Civic 10th gen RV6 Looking for 2.0L Downpipe BETA Testers 20190925_192410


Honda Civic 10th gen RV6 Looking for 2.0L Downpipe BETA Testers 20190925_192423


Honda Civic 10th gen RV6 Looking for 2.0L Downpipe BETA Testers 20190925_192417
 

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Pipe installed.

Performance? It's not the same as catless. Catless has weakened low end, but beast across 40-80mph. The high flow cat has a much cleaner powerband from 0-100. Definitely a lot better than stock, no question there. Still, I'm missing that almost perfectly fluid acceleration in the midband.

The sound, holy shit, the timbre of the exhaust is perfectly balanced with my intake. It sounds wonderful compared to catless, which was a bit tinny, and pretty loud comparatively. This is clean, aggressive, balanced.

Smell? None.

Check engine light? None so far. Ran it a few times up to 100mph. Will follow up if that changes at all.

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Do a sound video with your exhaust set up! Please :)
 


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a c i d.f l y

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Didn't reset the battery, but probably should have. I re-tuned and turned on the O2 sensors when I put the cat back on....

I just disconnected the battery, and will go for a drive here in a little bit.
 

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Sensor reading will easily last through an inspection. We'll see what happens over the next day or so to see if the light flags again. So far after a battery reset hasn't flagged any codes.

I'm happy either way. Performance is great, sound is amazing, no smell...likely will be a permanent upgrade that I can suggest without hesitation.

If you're running 2.0NA, tune with Ktuner then slap this on. You definitely won't be disappointed.
 

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Sensor reading will easily last through an inspection. We'll see what happens over the next day or so to see if the light flags again. So far after a battery reset hasn't flagged any codes.

I'm happy either way. Performance is great, sound is amazing, no smell...likely will be a permanent upgrade that I can suggest without hesitation.

If you're running 2.0NA, tune with Ktuner then slap this on. You definitely won't be disappointed.
Any tips you can share for the installation? I should be receiving it next week and would like to put it in ASAP, but have never swapped a down pipe before (or any other bolt-on power mods except for AEM intake).

Any there any specific tools needed and do you recommend any install guides/videos?

Thanks in advance!
 

mvela

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Sensor reading will easily last through an inspection. We'll see what happens over the next day or so to see if the light flags again. So far after a battery reset hasn't flagged any codes.

I'm happy either way. Performance is great, sound is amazing, no smell...likely will be a permanent upgrade that I can suggest without hesitation.

If you're running 2.0NA, tune with Ktuner then slap this on. You definitely won't be disappointed.
My finger has been on the trigger to order one. Thanks for posting your thoughts on it. I think I’m convinced now. I’ve already got mine tuned with exhaust. It’s time to add this to I guess
 

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Update: after resetting the battery, went two days with no CEL. Flagged the next day. Next day it was gone and has been gone for a couple days.

Acceleration is better across the board. Gain in RPM is faster, obviously, and churns well at WOT - gained a bit of that passing power that existed when catless.

As far as installation? Seriously the easiest shit ever.

-Jack up your driver side tire

From the underside:
-Take off the skid plate (6 flathead clips and 2 Philips screws), take off the three nuts holding the bottom of the pipe together.
-There's a mounting bracket, but that bolt is easier to get from the top.

From the top:
-Disconnect the top O2 sensor, there's one clip holding the cable together, another holding it to the bracket, disconnect the cable one.
-Unscrew the top O2 sensor, screw it into the replacement pipe.
-Repeat with bottom O2 sensor.
-Unscrew mounting bracket screw that goes into the engine, not the pipe, it's easier to get to. You'll take this off the stock pipe and use it on the replacement.
-Unscrew the 3 bolts holding the heat shield, shield should come off.
*Edit Note: Heat shield is not used with replacement pipe.
-Unscrew 2 bolts and 2 nuts holding pipe into block.
-Pull pipe towards you and lift out.

-Do the same but in reverse with the new pipe.

Everything is 12 or 14mm.
Bolts and nuts that go into the head should be torqued to 40 lbs, which is your average arm crank. Don't over-tighten, and use a crisscross tightening pattern. Run the engine a bit to warm up and see if anything can be tightened down after.

Oh, and disconnect your battery for a couple minutes before firing it back up.

I've done this 3 times now and it takes 15-30 minutes.

Be gentle on the bottom nuts holding the stock cat to the exhaust pipe, they strip pretty easily, but you can also easily knock those bolts out and replace them if you have any issues and need to go back to stock for whatever reason. ACE sells the nuts and bolts in 4 packs for a combined price of like $3.
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