Rock chip on windshield and hood

[fenix-silver]

Do you have a link to the PPF sheets you used? How is it holding up considering you did it yourself?

bought it from servoppf.com. pretty sure I got the Suntek ultra film. it's been installed for about a year and no issues so far. it was my first time installing, so it's not perfect (a few tiny dirt specs here and there), but from a few feet away it looks great. no edges lifting so far besides the door edge guards where i didn't do a good job of wrapping the edges. might need to redo those at some point if the peeling keeps progressing. if you like DIY and don't mind learning, i'd highly recommend it

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[SDAlexander8]

For those using touch-up pens, what's your whole process? Do you polish or wax the spot afterwards? Apply a sealant or clear-coat solution?

I haven’t done it yet, but I plan to use the Honda touch up pen. Base coat, let dry for a day, clear coat, let dry for a couple weeks. Then i’ll probably go over it with 3000 grit sandpaper very lightly and polish the entire car.

I’m weary of using a hard cutting compound on this paint more than maybe once or twice during life the car. I think that if you go polishing more than that, it’s gonna be looking like a damn Mitsubishi eclipse or an 8th gen civic with spots of missing clear in no time.

 

[Drake]

I haven’t done it yet, but I plan to use the Honda touch up pen. Base coat, let dry for a day, clear coat, let dry for a couple weeks. Then i’ll probably go over it with 3000 grit sandpaper very lightly and polish the entire car.

I’m weary of using a hard cutting compound on this paint more than maybe once or twice during life the car. I think that if you go polishing more than that, it’s gonna be looking like a damn Mitsubishi eclipse or an 8th gen civic with spots of missing clear in no time.

That's also my worry. This paint being so fragile not only makes it prone to damage, but also makes me scared to try and fix those spots! I'm afraid my lack of experience would simply make the problem worse

 

[SDAlexander8]

That's also my worry. This paint being so fragile not only makes it prone to damage, but also makes me scared to try and fix those spots! I'm afraid my lack of experience would simply make the problem worse

Touchless car washes/self serve bays, and a good paint sealant after a handwash maybe once every 6 months. If you have to polish and get swirls out, make it count.

Or a 3000-5000$ ceramic coat job on a 24,000$ car if you want... haha

 

[PdxJose]

I get mine straight from Honda at the dealership. In Canada it came out to $18 CAD taxes in, so can’t imagine it being more expensive than that for you at a dealer..and they typically stock it or can ship it to their dealer overnight..
The paint code is typically located on the drivers side door on the B pillar next to where the tire specifications are. The code is something like “NH***P”. For example, mine is Platinum White Pearl, the paint code is NH883P.

As for holding up, as long as you do it correctly and wait a couple days after for it to cure, it should be pretty much permanent. I’ve never had touch up come off in car washes. My 2013 Accord was completely riddled with touch up spots and none of the spots ever came off or washed off.

Cool, looks like I’ll have to head over to my local dealer soon.
What do you apply to protect the paint once it’s cured?

Edit: Did some research and it looks like the Honda touch up paint pen comes with the clear coat. That’s good to know. I’ll have to pick one up today and work on it on a dry day.

 

[biosses]

Yeah unfortunately I didn’t wrap it and know I’m finally seeing what people are saying about the paint on these cars. Crappy and thin. I’m thinking of getting PPF on certain areas now

Pretty cheap on Ebay, cut it out yourself, put on frequent touched places

 

[gtman]

Edit: Did some research and it looks like the Honda touch up paint pen comes with the clear coat. That’s good to know. I’ll have to pick one up today and work on it on a dry day.

Now I'm convinced everyone skims my posts.

The OEM paint pens are pretty good for chips. They feature the base color at the top and clearcoat at the bottom. I usually wait a few days to a week to apply some paint protection over the touched up spots.

 

[PdxJose]

Now I'm convinced everyone skims my posts.

I might have missed those important details lol. Nonetheless, I appreciate your info! Do you sand the rock chip at all so it’s even? And by paint protection do you mean like a wax or sealant?

 

[gtman]

It would be kind of tricky to wet sand a small chip and not mess up the surrounding area, so no, I don't level them. They aren't going to look perfect. But, filling them in and then topping with clearcoat blends them in to at least look acceptable.

And yes, protection would be some sort of polish, sealant and finally some wax.

 

[Rickmeister 48]

As someone mentioned the paint pen is never gonna look perfect, at least the lunar silver hardly matched at all. And be ready for tons more window chips, the glass is horrible, but to be honest, my 17 only had like one very small Knick after almost 2 years. My 18 had about 6 in less than half a year.

 

[fenix-silver]

So I've played around with this stuff a bit, but need to retry to see if I can get better results, but in theory it allows you to more easily level out chip repairs: Langka Blob Eliminator. Once the paint has dried you basically buff it flat.

 

[shoegazer]

For those that have never attempted this before; I offer this:

Less is more. Don't go nuts with the actual paint trying to get it perfect. The clear coat will make your repair look better than it is. Paint shops used to use a torn paper match (the tiny ripped bit at the bottom) as a brush/applicator. I touched the tip of the built-in brush (like a nail polish brush) to my chip and, of course, the thing mushroomed to about three times the size. I ended up making the repair more visible than the chip. Lesson learned. And I hope this saves someone from making the same mistake.

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