Review/Comparison/Install: CorsoMotion and iJDMTOY LED Rear Reflectors for the Si Sedan/Hatchback

Your Favorite Reflector?


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ladysi

ladysi

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Awesome guide, the strange thing...i ordered Corsomotion like 9 days ago and beside generated e-mail of order from their website...there are not responding to e-mails or facebook messenger...
It took a long time for them to ship. Like 2-3 weeks.
Sponsored

 

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I agree. I hate them. But they are better than quick splices. I would do a proper soldered T splice, but the wires in question were so thin that I was concerned about reliably removing the sheathing without damaging the wire.

Also, considering they are factory wires and the car is under warranty - I will t-tap evey time.

How would you do it?
I’m not exactly sure when you say “quick splice”. If you’re talking about a quick connect adapter, T-taps are the exact same thing. They both cut through the wire insulation in which you’re banking on that it didn’t cut any of the strands and that it’s making good enough contact.

If I were to get an aftermarket part that needed splicing into factory wires, I would...strip back the insulation, twist, solder, heat shrink tubing, rubber/vulcanizing tape, and then electrical tape. The problem with rubber/vulcanizing tape is that it does not stick to anything but itself. When you wrap it around the wire, it actually isn’t adhered to the wire. As this MAY be enough to stop any water penetration, add a layer of electrical tape and you can be 100% sure that will last for years to come.

If you’re worried about what happens when you want to change the part out with something else, or would like to return to stock...desoldering in itself is not that time consuming. And a lot safer than disconnecting and then connecting another quick connect adapter cutting into the wire again. Just get some flux and a tiny paint brush. Get the solder liquified, and then use the paint brush with flux to essentially “wipe away the solder”. They also have small mechanical suction tubes that remove the hot liquified solder in literally two seconds. You say because it’s under warranty, you will use T-taps? If any issue occurs, and the manufacturer can tell a quick connect adapter was used, your warranty won’t be in affect anymore. So I’m not really understanding the thought process there?

Now the small factory wiring, as long as you have a good sharp pair of wire strippers, you should have no issue up to and including 24AWG. Which is pretty damn small if you ask me. Just be careful and take your time. Even the most experienced person will still make mistakes sometimes, don’t get yourself worked up if this occurs!
 
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ladysi

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I’m not exactly sure when you say “quick splice”. If you’re talking about a quick connect adapter, T-taps are the exact same thing. They both cut through the wire insulation in which you’re banking on that it didn’t cut any of the strands and that it’s making good enough contact.

If I were to get an aftermarket part that needed splicing into factory wires, I would...strip back the insulation, twist, solder, heat shrink tubing, rubber/vulcanizing tape, and then electrical tape. The problem with rubber/vulcanizing tape is that it does not stick to anything but itself. When you wrap it around the wire, it actually isn’t adhered to the wire. As this MAY be enough to stop any water penetration, add a layer of electrical tape and you can be 100% sure that will last for years to come.

If you’re worried about what happens when you want to change the part out with something else, or would like to return to stock...desoldering in itself is not that time consuming. And a lot safer than disconnecting and then connecting another quick connect adapter cutting into the wire again. Just get some flux and a tiny paint brush. Get the solder liquified, and then use the paint brush with flux to essentially “wipe away the solder”. They also have small mechanical suction tubes that remove the hot liquified solder in literally two seconds. You say because it’s under warranty, you will use T-taps? If any issue occurs, and the manufacturer can tell a quick connect adapter was used, your warranty won’t be in affect anymore. So I’m not really understanding the thought process there?

Now the small factory wiring, as long as you have a good sharp pair of wire strippers, you should have no issue up to and including 24AWG. Which is pretty damn small if you ask me. Just be careful and take your time. Even the most experienced person will still make mistakes sometimes, don’t get yourself worked up if this occurs!
Ok, so you would just strip and splice. Gtk. My factory wiring concern was more about time to undo, as worse case would have me frantically undoing something on the side of the road while a tow truck is inbound.

My stripper handles up to 22g and the wires were smaller than that.

T-taps and quick connects both have the same issues with fatigue for the spliced wire, I agree with that. But quick connects cannot be easily disconnected and reconnected without significantly adding to wire fatigue.

And yes, I know what vulcanized tape is, I mention it my post.

Anyways, thanks for the "tips" and the tone, it has been a while.... back to sailing.
 
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Review/Comparison/Install: CorsoMotion and iJDMTOY LED Rear Reflectors for the Si Sedan/Hatchback

Ok, this review took 2x longer to write, then actually do. Whew. FML. Enjoy assholes. :p

I bought the CorsoMotion reflectors + modules literally 5 days before I first heard of the iJDMTOY reflectors here on civicx. Nice timing guys. I swallowed my pride and bought the iJDMTOY reflectors too and decided to do a side by side review. Behold:

CorsoMotion:

Reflectors:
  • First Impressions: OEM Reflectors that retains the actual reflector functionality. It looks like they pried the reflectors apart, drilled a hole for the wires, installed an led strip, and then sealed the housing with some industrial strength glue. Hot glue was used to seal the hole with the wires. One of the reflectors release clip does not work correctly due to the hot glue in the way - much more force was necessary to remove it from the fake vent.
  • Wiring: Two wires, black (ground) and red (12v). They provide power to the led strips in the reflectors. The wiring opening is sealed, the wires are really thin gauges, and the kit does not include connectors.
  • Build Quality: Solid. Has a little more weight than the empty OEM reflectors. Glue is solid. Fully sealed.
  • Cost: $190
Control Modules:
  • First Impressions: Small black boxes. Mine did not have labels for wiring (unlike the photos on the CorsoMotion website). Two wires in, 4 wires out. The modules support brakes, flashers, and headlights. It seems like they must have some resistance on the headlights circuit as it is dimmer than the brakes circuit.
  • Wiring: 4 wires: black (ground), red (brakes), white (headlights), and yellow (blinker). The wiring opening is not sealed, the wires are really thin gauges, and the kit does not include connectors.
  • Build Quality: Not so great. There are large holes on either side of the modules for the wires, these will need to be sealed.
  • Cost: $24
Total Cost: $214 + shipping

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iJDMTOY:

Reflectors:
  • First Impressions: Much thicker than the OEMs or CorsoMotions. Not a perfect fit on shape either. They are well sealed and I cannot really see what is inside them, But my guess is an led strip and some type of diffuser layer covered by the black and clear outer plastic grid shell. They are sequential flashers from the top down.
  • Wiring: 4 wires: black (ground), red (brakes), green (headlights), and yellow (blinker). The wiring openings are sealed, really thin gauges, and no connectors.
  • Build Quality: Ok. They are obviously made of cheaper plastic and the lens is soft enough plastic that will accumulate and show scrtaches over time.
  • Control Modules: None/Internal :)
  • Cost: $46
Total Cost: $46 + shipping

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Preface:
Much of this was covered by @jtamase in the thread https://www.civicx.com/threads/rear-bumper-led-lights-for-the-10th-gen-civic-hatchback.37038/. Please read through that thread as well as his is more of a guide and mine is more of a narrative. I will just explain some shit and throw pictures/videos at you. I have aftermarket sequential smoked led taillights and an Si sedan, so my steps may differ slightly from the ones you need to perform. When in doubt.....Think. And if you are really in doubt, ask on the forums or be brave and forge ahead alone.


Suggested Gear:

None of this is required, but if I was going to do it all again (and I might), I would make sure to have the full list of stuff below.

  • Rubber Gloves: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BR8KB4/
    Suggested for saving your paint, lens, and hands from small damage. Also improves grip and doesn't leave fingerprints.
  • Quick Splice T-Taps with Spade Quick Connect: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDWC60Y/
    I use regular old quick connects below, but these are superior. Less wire prep as the quick splice acts as the female disconnect, and the kit includes the male quick connect. Also, you can always reopen the splice and drop a point of solder in to make it permanent.
  • Vulcanizing Tape: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HWROLIG
    This is super useful for wrapping wire loom or for quick seals. If you go the permanent route with the above T-Taps, wrap the tap after the solder with this. It will help waterproof it. Be careful not to wrap it around the quick connect.
  • Wire Loom: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DVZFL6S/
    Though I did not use it below, this will protect the wires and extend their longevity in the hell that is inside the rear bumper. Close it up with some Vulcanizing Tape.
  • Heat Shrink: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LVFDLUO
    I didn't use colored heat shrink as all I had was black. Because of this I had to expose a bit of the wire so that it would have useful color-coding. If you used colored heat shrink, you can fully protect the wires.
  • 3M Tape (iJDMTOYs only)
  • Extra Male/Female Quick Connects (CorsoMotion only)
  • Rosin Core Electronics Solder
  • 18g Wire (colored if you do not have colored heat shrink)
  • 2 short screws (iJDMTOY only)
  • Hot Glue (CorsoMotion only)

General Steps:
  1. Reflector/Control Module Wiring Prep
  2. Taillight Removal
  3. Taillight Splices
  4. TEST
  5. Bumper Removal
  6. Fake Vent Removal
  7. Reflector Install
  8. TEST
  9. Reassembly
  10. TEST

1. Reflector/Control Module Prep

Why this step?
Because. Shit happens, and bumpers/taillights may need to be removed in the future. And quick splices are dirty and problematic, especially if you live where there is wet/freezing weather.

CorsoMotion:

In order to prep these, you should understand how they will connect through the car. The taillight splices will quick connect to the control modules through the bumper gap and then quick connect to the reflectors through the fake vent. The control module cannot fit through the hole in the fake vent, so the above extra set of quick connects is required between the module and the reflector. Also, make sure to seal the holes on the control modules with hot glue.

Basically:
Taillight splices -> quick connects -> bumper gap -> control module -> quick connects -> fake vent hole -> reflectors​

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I didn't take photos of attaching the quick connects for the reflectors and the two wire side of the control modules, but here it is completed.
20190527_225813.jpg



iJDMTOY:
These are relatively simple to prep. You will need to add quick connects and heat shrink to the 4 wires coming out of the reflector housing.

Basically:
Taillight splices -> quick connects -> bumper gap -> fake vent hole -> reflectors.​

20190527_203049.jpg

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Notes:
I chose to solder 18g wires (always use a linemans splice/joint!) to the reflector/control module wires where ever I added a quick connect. This helps with the stiffness of the connection adding durability to the parts of the cable you will apply the most pressure/tension when disconnecting the quick connects. It also makes it easy to use the more durable quick connects and better insulation from thicker heat shrink. This is not necessary, but advised.


2. Taillight Removal:



Unscrew the two bolts on the outer edge of the trunk opening holding down the rear edge of the taillights.

Remove the taillight by pulling from the front most part pulling toward the back of the car. There are a couple of plug clips holding it in. You may want to tape off the body of the car around the taillight with auto masking tape to protect the paint in case you bump or scratch against it with the taillight during removal. I don't but I have pulled mine so many times another small scratch wont hurt.

3. Taillight Splices

I dislike that most folk are just splicing the wires to the taillights and calling it good (I am guilty of this too). Splices, especially quick splices, are notorious for weak/intermittent connections, wearing down over time, damaging wires if they have to be removed/replaced for service, and in this case they increase the time necessary to remove the bumper or troubleshoot the reflectors. Just in the few days between doing this and writing this post, I had 1 splice act up.

Though I used quick splices, I spliced them to an 18g wire with a heat shrinked quick connect. Though I would suggest that you use T-TAPs with a spade terminal, and then wrap them with vulcanized tape to seal them (do not wrap over the spade terminal end though!)...I thought I had some, but alas, I did not..it was mid afternoon..and my car was already disassembled. I make this error too often. Not having my own garage - "garage surfing" you could call it, can be quite chaotic and super difficult to plan. My trunk is my toolbox.

Anyways, don't be like me, get all the things you need and double check before pulling that first push-pin or removing that first bolt.

So, my car is a 2018 Si Sedan. Yours might be different. Please test. Here are the wires I used:
  • Blue car harness - White wire (brake 12v) - Connected to a red wire/heat shrink quick connect
  • Green car harness - White wire (blinker 12v) - Connected to a yellow wire/heat shrink quick connect
  • Green car harness - Black wire (blinker ground) - Connected to a black wire/heat shrink quick connect
  • Black car harness - White wire (low beam headlights 12v) - Connected to a green wire/heat shrink quick connect
My car is an Si Sedan, so your wires/harnesses may be different colors than mine. Please test your harnesses and wires before splicing! You can easily do so by unplugging all but 1 harness from a taillight, turning on the car, and testing brakes, headlights, and flashers. Repeat this process for each connector. You will use the non-black wire on all connectors (other than the one for the ground connection - afaik, you can use any of the black ground wires for the ground splice to the reflectors/control modules).

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4. TEST


At this point, plug in your reflectors TO BOTH SIDES. Start the car and test:
  • Brakes
  • Headlights
  • Hazards
  • Blinkers
Make sure it works. Jostle the quick splices and connects. Make sure none of them are weak or loose. If they are, fix them. In the case of a quick splice, a touch or solder on the splice teeth can really strengthen the splice.

5. Bumper Removal



Start by removing the screws from each rear wheel well rim. You will have 3 screws to remove per side (4 if you have OEM splash guards). I suggest using a short phillips tip stuck into a ratchet as you only have like 2 inches max room to work with between the fender and the tire (less if you have 19" rims).
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Remove the two hex bolts underneath the trunk opening.
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Remove the 4 push pins from the underside of the car. One under each fender nearest the wheel well, and two others below the trunk.
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Watch the video at the beginning of this step again. Loosen up both sides of the bumper by pulling the edge directly back from the wheel well - there should be a few clips on either side. Finally, pull the bumper directly back from the rear center, there are two clips offset on the rear that should release. You may want something soft under your bumper at this point as the bumper may fall to the ground - cardboard at minnimun, but a rubber mat would be best.
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Viola!
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Bumper Removal Notes:

If you live in a state like MN, you will be appalled at how much sand/dirt/salt/gunk has accumulated on the inside of the bumper body and all over the back of the now exposed bumper and frame of the car. CLEAN IT UP. This is one of your only chances to do so and will help increase the longevity of the body and metal. After 1 year ownership in MN, IT WAS FUCKING BAD. You have been advised.

Also, you may have encountered much resistance trying to remove the push pins on the underside of the car. I did. I investigated and found that little bits of gravel and salt accumulated on them and caused them to "freeze" in certain positions and they took much effort to remove. I experience the same issues with push pins whenever I remove my front bumper as well. I wash them out, banging them to clear the blockage, and then make sure they open and close freely and cleanly before reassembly. You have been advised.

Oh Dear! Dirty Naked Rear! :p
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6. Fake Vent Removal:

Take your time. Reread the post by @jtamase. There are two screws to remove on the back of the vent. Then take your time popping the tabs around the vent. It will should come pretty easily, if not, you may want to shift your technique. Once the vent is removed, remove the reflector as well. There is a tab thing. You will figure it out.
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7. Reflector Install

It you did all the wiring prep, this step is a breeze.

Corsomotion Install:
As the CorsoMotion reflectors are OEM, they should just snap in. Make sure to feed their wires through the corresponding hole. My set fit perfect, like a glove.
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I had issues removing this CorsoMotion reflector (foreshadowing) as the hot glue used to seal the wire hole interfered with the tab release thingy...
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Install the fake vent back into the bumper, again feeding the wires/connects through the obvious hole.
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Then connect up the control module.
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iJDMTOY Install:
As the iJDMTOY is not a perfect fit, you may need to use some 3m tape to hold the bottom half of it in place. Also, find a small/short screw, you will want to screw that into the back of the vent into the reflector through the obvious hole. Install the vent into the bumper, be mindful to pass the wires through the obvious holes.
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8. TEST

Connect both reflectors/control modules to the spliced quick connects. Test all functions once again.


9. Reassembly

Put every thing back together. Be mindful of the reflector cables running up through the bumper, there is an obvious gap, run them there. Do not pinch them during bumper reinstallation.

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10. TEST

Before you drive, check all this again. Then drive for a few miles, on some rougher roads, and check again. Especially if you only used quick splices.

ALL FUCKING DONE. CONGRATS. TO YOU. TO ME. NOW TAKE WHAT YOU LEARNED AND DO SOMETHING OUTRAGEOUS.

Then post it and tag me. Honestly, this is so long, tag me if you read this far. :p


Conclusion:

Side by side videos (Corsomotion on the left, iJDMTOY on the right):



And now the rating thing.

CorsoMotion Pros:
  • OEM Look
  • Perfect OEM Fit
  • Has reflector functionality so is fully street legal.
CorsoMotion Cons:
  • Expensive. Like REALLY EXPENSIVE.
  • Extra control modules required for full functionality.
  • More soldering/sealing/quick connects than the iJDMTOYs.
  • Less than inspiring aesthetics - looks like an LED strip stuck in the OEM housing and the led strip is not centered, is not straight, nor does it fill the full housing from top to bottom.
CorsoMotion Rating: 15/25 - 3.0 avg
  • Quality/Durability: 5
  • Aesthetics: 2
  • Price: 1
  • Ease of Install: 2
  • OEM Fit: 5

iJDMTOY Pros:
  • CHEAP.
  • Inspiring aesthetics - they have a cyberpunk look to them and pair nicely with the sequential smoked led taillights.
  • No control modules, the electronics are sealed in the housing.
  • Easy to install compared to the CorsoMotions.
iJDMTOY Cons:
  • Not OEM fit. Not even close.
  • Plastic housing seems less durable than the CorsoMotions.
  • The lens is a polished plastic that will definitely show scratches over time.
  • They are thicker than the CorsoMotions and protrude from the vents.
  • They are secured with a single screw - 3m tape should be used to better secure them.
iJDMTOY Rating: 19/25 - 3.8 avg
  • Quality/Durability: 3
  • Aesthetics: 5
  • Price: 5
  • Ease of Install: 4
  • OEM Fit: 2

So...... you may be asking yourself if I drove around with 2 different led reflectors? I did not. There was one I clearly liked better on looks alone.

Behold: iJDMTOY LED Reflectors + Smoke Sequential LED Taillights


P.S: To be fair to the CorsoMotions, I have included some media below that illustrate the issues I had with the alignment of the LED strip, the incompleteness of the light fill of the reflector, and the lack of sequential motion:
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Honestly, if you made it to the end without skimming and actually reading. Wow. Way to not budget your time effectively. Congrats for that.

Laters.
Hey, quick question. What tail lights are you using? Will they fit the Hatchbacks? The Hatchback tail lights are held with two screws.
 
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ladysi

ladysi

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Hey, quick question. What tail lights are you using? Will they fit the Hatchbacks? The Hatchback tail lights are held with two screws.
Lol, you replied with that whole post :)

I do not know if mine will fit the hatch.

Mine:
http://www.zpracing.com/product/1424/àč„àžŸàž—àč‰àžČàžą-z-spec-black-civic-fc

Looks like they are discontinued.

Some hatch specific ones I found:
http://www.opt-7.com/opt7-honda-civ...fits-all-2016-2019-10th-gen-civic-hatchbacks/
 
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rwsmith123

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Lol, you replied with that whole post :)

I do not know if mine will fit the hatch.

Mine:
http://www.zpracing.com/product/1424/àč„àžŸàž—àč‰àžČàžą-z-spec-black-civic-fc

Looks like they are discontinued.

Some hatch specific ones I found:
http://www.opt-7.com/opt7-honda-civ...fits-all-2016-2019-10th-gen-civic-hatchbacks/
After I watched your videos that was my question as well. I really like your tail lights. I don’t like the opt7 ones (or any others that I’ve seen for the hatch).
 

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Perfect. Thanks bunches. I found my t-taps and vulcanizing tape last night... this will give me a reason to pull these back out, dremel away, resplice my taillight wires with the taps, add some solder, and finish with tape.

Cheers mate, I owe you :)
Wanted to thank ladysi for the great write up on installing these (yes I did read it all and I don't know what i'm doing with my life lol). I just installed the ijdmtoy led's on my 2020 yesterday and it helped a lot. Also figured I would add onto this post/thread in case anyone with a 2020 stumbles upon it like it did as there are some differences with the rear vents since they redesigned the 2020's.

This is what the back of one looks like
Honda Civic 10th gen Review/Comparison/Install: CorsoMotion and iJDMTOY LED Rear Reflectors for the Si Sedan/Hatchback PXL_20201011_185650310


I couldn't take out the raised section HatchED pointed out in his picture since it would eliminate the mounting hole area for the new led's. I did however enlarge the hole to allow the mounting post from the ijdmtoy led's to pass through it which allowed them to sit flush in the vent.

I used a 21/64 drill bit to do it. I could have probably stepped up to the 11/32 since it was still a little small but I just used the 21/64 I had in the drill to open it up a little more. It might take a couple of mockups before you get it to set in the way you want.

Honda Civic 10th gen Review/Comparison/Install: CorsoMotion and iJDMTOY LED Rear Reflectors for the Si Sedan/Hatchback PXL_20201011_194840846


Here is how large the hole looked after

Honda Civic 10th gen Review/Comparison/Install: CorsoMotion and iJDMTOY LED Rear Reflectors for the Si Sedan/Hatchback PXL_20201011_195039082


This also meant I couldn't use the screws that came with the ijdmtoy leds since they were too small of a head to really hold the leds in place securely. Luckily I am a packrat when it comes to bolts and screws and just pulled out my container of misc. items and found two matching ones with larger heads and slightly bigger threads to really bite in. In the picture below I show the ijdmtoy screws (on the left) versus the two larger ones I ended up using (on the right and the one installed).

Honda Civic 10th gen Review/Comparison/Install: CorsoMotion and iJDMTOY LED Rear Reflectors for the Si Sedan/Hatchback PXL_20201011_194823256


After that is was smooth sailing (well besides the whole wiring, splicing, tapping & lets not forget cursing). Remember to check to make sure they are working correctly after each step as I had my rear bumper reinstalled but hadn't threw on the taillights yet and the right led decided to stop working (loose connection at one splice) fixed it and made sure everything was good before heat shrinking some tubes around them. It was probably about 2-3hrs by the time I was done since the rear bumper is a million times easier to remove/reinstall than the front.

Honda Civic 10th gen Review/Comparison/Install: CorsoMotion and iJDMTOY LED Rear Reflectors for the Si Sedan/Hatchback PXL_20201011_232345714.NIGHT


Honda Civic 10th gen Review/Comparison/Install: CorsoMotion and iJDMTOY LED Rear Reflectors for the Si Sedan/Hatchback PXL_20201011_232428880.NIGHT


It was worth it in the end as I love the sequential turn signal aspect. Hopefully they hold up as I don't want to have to do it again anytime soon.
 
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Wanted to thank ladysi for the great write up on installing these (yes I did read it all and I don't know what i'm doing with my life lol). I just installed the ijdmtoy led's on my 2020 yesterday and it helped a lot. Also figured I would add onto this post/thread in case anyone with a 2020 stumbles upon it like it did as there are some differences with the rear vents since they redesigned the 2020's.

This is what the back of one looks like
PXL_20201011_185650310.jpg


I couldn't take out the raised section HatchED pointed out in his picture since it would eliminate the mounting hole area for the new led's. I did however enlarge the hole to allow the mounting post from the ijdmtoy led's to pass through it which allowed them to sit flush in the vent.

I used a 21/64 drill bit to do it. I could have probably stepped up to the 11/32 since it was still a little small but I just used the 21/64 I had in the drill to open it up a little more. It might take a couple of mockups before you get it to set in the way you want.

PXL_20201011_194840846.jpg


Here is how large the hole looked after

View attachment 253870

This also meant I couldn't use the screws that came with the ijdmtoy leds since they were too small of a head to really hold the leds in place securely. Luckily I am a packrat when it comes to bolts and screws and just pulled out my container of misc. items and found two matching ones with larger heads and slightly bigger threads to really bite in. In the picture below I show the ijdmtoy screws (on the left) versus the two larger ones I ended up using (on the right and the one installed).

PXL_20201011_194823256.jpg


After that is was smooth sailing (well besides the whole wiring, splicing, tapping & lets not forget cursing). Remember to check to make sure they are working correctly after each step as I had my rear bumper reinstalled but hadn't threw on the taillights yet and the right led decided to stop working (loose connection at one splice) fixed it and made sure everything was good before heat shrinking some tubes around them. It was probably about 2-3hrs by the time I was done since the rear bumper is a million times easier to remove/reinstall than the front.

PXL_20201011_232345714.NIGHT.jpg


PXL_20201011_232428880.NIGHT.jpg


It was worth it in the end as I love the sequential turn signal aspect. Hopefully they hold up as I don't want to have to do it again anytime soon.

PXL_20201011_195039082.jpg
Nicely done! One of mine from the original review did have an led go bad - I used the opportunity to buy the smoked out version at the beginning of spring this year - so far the new ones have been without issue.

Looks real good :D
 

jayman84

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Nicely done! One of mine from the original review did have an led go bad - I used the opportunity to buy the smoked out version at the beginning of spring this year - so far the new ones have been without issue.

Looks real good :D
Well hopefully they last a little while but I did make the wire connections removable so It wouldn't be too hard to replace them if I have to.
 

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I used Corsomotion Reflectors for my hatch for a couple of months, but after half-year, few LEDs in one of the reflectors burn out, I shipped them back to CorsoMotion for repair and they turned silent, no reply via e-mail or Facebook messenger.
 

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Does anyone know if the iJDM version functions as reflectors as well? Need to get a VI for my car and I really don't want go through the hassle to take it out and put the stock ones back in
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