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Retracting parking brake with scan tool?

Gansan

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Hi guys,

I know there have been threads on how to retract the parking brake and piston manually when changing out rear pads. However, I noticed that there are scanner tools that retract electronic parking brakes for other makes of cars. I expect there must be support for Honda parking brakes in one of them already or maybe it's coming soon. I'm willing to spend some money on this--does anyone know of a tool that supports the Honda parking brake retraction command?



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I don't see how that would be physically possible on the CivicX rear brake. The parking brake works via the brake fluid, not on the physical piston.
The rear brakes are operated by two systems:

1. Electric parking brake - It is operated by a motor and system of gears that actuate the piston.
2. Hydraulic system - Rears are like conventional brakes when the parking brakes are off. Hydraulic fluid actuates the piston.

What I don't know which system is used by the brake hold feature.

Here is a tool that may work.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-HONDA-...2644?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0
 
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Type R 761

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Hi guys,

I know there have been threads on how to retract the parking brake and piston manually when changing out rear pads. However, I noticed that there are scanner tools that retract electronic parking brakes for other makes of cars. I expect there must be support for Honda parking brakes in one of them already or maybe it's coming soon. I'm willing to spend some money on this--does anyone know of a tool that supports the Honda parking brake retraction command?
Hello, Autel has some, you can buy from Amazon. 150 ish. Works great, no need to take apart brake motor end unscrew manually, makes the brake job faster. They will give you a free download. So Honda/Acura is covered. You can have more cars leaded for extra $ once purchased. It also reads/deletes codes. So very useful. Let me know if you need exact model ,# I'll check when back home
 

02SilverSiHB

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Dang 150 for that...I just released my brake before working on the brakes...seemed simple to me...guess it depends on your situation/how you have to park your car?
 

shadow

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Dang 150 for that...I just released my brake before working on the brakes...seemed simple to me...guess it depends on your situation/how you have to park your car?
That will work when installing pads with the same thickness.

Will it work when changing thin worn pads to thick new ones?
 

02SilverSiHB

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That will work when installing pads with the same thickness.

Will it work when changing thin worn pads to thick new ones?
So after I took off the rear pads I just retracted it by hand...it was easy. Then I had enough room to slide the rears on.

My brakes are fine work great. This was like 4k miles ago I guess
 

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So after I took off the rear pads I just retracted it by hand...it was easy. Then I had enough room to slide the rears on.

My brakes are fine work great. This was like 4k miles ago I guess
I'll try that when I replace the rear pads.
 

02SilverSiHB

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I'll try that when I replace the rear pads.
yeah, it wasn't hard honestly. I'm sure you've done it before on previous civics maybe? This one obviously has that motor for electronic brake, but it wasn't hard at all...the initial turn clockwise was a bit tough, but once it start turning it'll be super easy (guess it could depend on mileage and brake use, I haven't put mine on the track at all)
 
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Gansan

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There are some people who have reported just releasing the brake and changing the pads out (with manual piston twist I assume) led to weird problems. I'm guessing by resetting it, you are having it retract fully and reset where the "open" position is. Otherwise, if you release it and put new pads in, then the open position is probably a lot closer to where closed would be with new pads. The position is probably designed to ratchet closer and closer to accommodate the pads wearing out over time, same as manual parking brakes.
 
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02SilverSiHB

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There are some people who have reported just releasing the brake and changing the pads out (with manual piston twist I assume) led to weird problems. I'm guessing by resetting it, you are having it retract fully and reset where the "open" position is. Otherwise, if you release it and put new pads in, then the open position is probably a lot closer to where closed would be with new pads. The position is probably designed to ratchet closer and closer to accommodate the pads wearing out over time, same as manual parking brakes.
I haven't had the issue...doesn't make much sense to me...but we'll see...it's been quite a while and zero issues for me.

After I finished the rears, I lowed the car down, got inside the car, turned it on and pumped the brakes to feel if all was good. I then put the ebrake on and tested that out, then disengage the ebrake and drove around...and no issues
 

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On the old Civics, I turned the pistons clockwise to retract it.

The 10th Gen Civic FSM say to first retract the EPB by electronic means, or removing the motor and turning the shaft clockwise. Afterwards, use a brake tool to push in the piston.

FYI, when my car was new, I replaced the rear rotors with Girodiscs. While it was off, I tried turning the pistons like the old Civics. that was too difficult. I next tried to push is straight back in, but that was too hard too. I was afraid to break something and since the old pads were going back in, I didn't bother to remove the motor.

I'm just wary if it is as simple as tuning the pistons, why does the FSM require retracting the EPB.
 

02SilverSiHB

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On the old Civics, I turned the pistons clockwise to retract it.

The 10th Gen Civic FSM say to first retract the EPB by electronic means, or removing the motor and turning the shaft clockwise. Afterwards, use a brake tool to push in the piston.

FYI, when my car was new, I replaced the rear rotors with Girodiscs. While it was off, I tried turning the pistons like the old Civics. that was too difficult. I next tried to push is straight back in, but that was too hard too. I was afraid to break something and since the old pads were going back in, I didn't bother to remove the motor.

I'm just wary if it is as simple as tuning the pistons, why does the FSM require retracting the EPB.
Interesting. I think getting the tool is probably a safe bet then. Either I got lucky or I'll have issues later down the road...we will see. My next brake work, I'll just have honda do it and have them inspect them to make sure all is good
 

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There are some people who have reported just releasing the brake and changing the pads out (with manual piston twist I assume) led to weird problems. I'm guessing by resetting it, you are having it retract fully and reset where the "open" position is. Otherwise, if you release it and put new pads in, then the open position is probably a lot closer to where closed would be with new pads. The position is probably designed to ratchet closer and closer to accommodate the pads wearing out over time, same as manual parking brakes.
I've been having intermittent issues with my EPB since changing the rear pads and manually retracting the piston. My assumption was that it's confused by the new position of the piston when the brake is engaged. I've just been trying not to use it until I can go to the dealer, hoping they'll reset it for me with my next oil change.
 

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I've been having intermittent issues with my EPB since changing the rear pads and manually retracting the piston. My assumption was that it's confused by the new position of the piston when the brake is engaged. I've just been trying not to use it until I can go to the dealer, hoping they'll reset it for me with my next oil change.
Did you bleed the brakes? (and follow the parking brake reset procedure of 5x on-off and re-bleed? )

If you didn't bleed, then that would be a different issue.
 

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