Replacing Torn CV Boot on Axle Shaft!

yansag1982

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Are they covering yours under warranty even with lowering springs installed?
Yes they did, i told them i found grease inside one of my wheels...and they didnt asked they told me it was back order but under warranty. Cost 0$ i got lucky perhaps i dont know...hehe
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5th 3l3ment

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Alright - a while back I installed my Eibachs and even with care my passenger side boot got ripped. I repaired it and the repair lasted around 10k miles, but found a cross-referenced part on here for Mitsubishi Outlander v6 CV Boot - the part number will be in the pictures below:)

I will create this thread, then after pics have loaded will go back and put the steps in so if you see this too early you won't see any descriptions:) BTW Cost for the Boot was 9 dollars:) It was less than the items I used to repair my boot when finding the original tear:)


Pic's loaded all out of order for some reason - oh well you'll get the gyst:)

Updating the part number if you can't find it with the below information:
CV Joint Boot Kit-EMPI w/ Clamps & Grease CV Boot Kit EMPI/EMPIRE Part# W0133-1637207-EMP

EMPI boot kit - Part Number: 86-2340-D is the part number on the box - but the number above is easier to find it with:)

IMG_3993.JPG


IMG_3970.JPG


Jackup car and remove center cap, then lower back down once you verify the fitment of the Bolt, IIRC it's a 35mm but could be incorrect, I have 32, 35 at the house so it's one of those - will edit later once I confirm.

IMG_3972.JPG


In order to break this loose you will need impact, if you don't have impact put the tires back on lower down and use breaker bar to break it loose - before you try make sure you beat the divot on the 35mm nut back up so its not holding it in place. Before breaking this loose cover up the sharp point on the lower control arm, I used shop towel and lots of duct tape...

IMG_3971.JPG


After you raise the car back up this is what you get - Now you need the first use of the sledge - I have a 5lb mini sledge and it worked perfectly! Knock the shit out of it and push it back through. At this point remove the 3 bolts (15mm IIRC) that connect the ball joint and the lower control arm. FYI, learn from my mistakes, YOU HAVE TO disconnect the top sway bar connection to me able to remove it:) Then you will need to muscle the brake and shock assembly back and out of the way, I tucked it against the back fender, while doing this you will be wrestling to remove the axle from the wheel bearing as well - good luck and lots of curse words:)

IMG_3975.JPG


Above is the space I worked with, I took at this point and duck taped the "sharp Point on the lower control arm, I did alot as didn't want to run the risk of puncturing the new boot.

IMG_3976.JPG


Now you have to get to this point, this requires all your balls as you have to beat the shit out of your absolutely pristine axle. You have to angle it down - then take your hammer and hit the innermost ring until it comes off..


You will end up with this below once you have successfully separated it:

IMG_3977.JPG


At this point I cleaned the inner shaft, - removing all old grease and put the band clamp, and the boot on and pushed it all the way up!

Below is pic of the clamp on and the boot in place.
IMG_3982.JPG



IMG_3981.JPG


Now you have to clean all the old grease out of your axle joint - this took some work, you don't want to mix grease, I got ALOT out, but use vigilance here:) Move it around alot and work your cleaning towel/rag down in there and rotate it around alot, more and more will come out...

IMG_3979.JPG


I then repacked it with the included special lithium grease for axles as you can see:) Once again move it around and really force the grease down in there - majority of the grease should be in here - remainder will go inside your axle boot before you clamp it all together.

IMG_3983.JPG


Now you see the boot slipped on, what you can't see is the use of the Sledge to get it to snap back on, and the use of the screwdriver to push both sides of the ring clip that prevents it from going back on - enjoy getting grease all over you, and alot of curse words at this point to get it back on. It didn't give me a satisfying clunk or thud when it went on either - it just went on after alot of beating it. FYI, un-connect the clamps and put them pretty tight on there, it's almost impossible to slip the clamps over the boots with the "pre-configured" tension on them, it's simple you will have to "fiddle" with it a bit:)

IMG_3984.JPG


This is the scary part for me, the same cutters I used to cut off the old bands, I now am using to tighten the band clamps... Thats what it calls for so don't be scared it's re-enforced metal bands in those spots. Make sure you get it tight enough as the band clamps can be adjusted - the instructions in the EMPI reboot cover this for you a bit...

IMG_3985.JPG


Nut back on and torqued, then push the tab back down in place with a screwdriver and your sledge.

IMG_3988.JPG


A look at the new boot - took around 45 minutes, and saved me the cost of an Axle = 165, and since this was passenger side I gather now that it saved me the cost of the axle bracket and extension as well which is another 165 bucks!!!!!!!!!! I's not cleaned or wiped up in this pic:)

IMG_3986.JPG


IMG_3974.JPG


Since the pics loaded out of order it kinda messed up my rythm, also can't delete this last pic for some reason, so enjoy my now chipped paint on my rotors, and my spacers as well as the working space I had to do this:)
I know im late here’s the run down I have a rip in the outer Cv boot I did order a replacement axle but im keeping the oem one and replacing the boot so hopefully it won’t happen again if it does i’ll have one ready to replace it. Thanks for the pictures and the how too I appreciate you for it thanks
 

5th 3l3ment

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Alright - a while back I installed my Eibachs and even with care my passenger side boot got ripped. I repaired it and the repair lasted around 10k miles, but found a cross-referenced part on here for Mitsubishi Outlander v6 CV Boot - the part number will be in the pictures below:)

I will create this thread, then after pics have loaded will go back and put the steps in so if you see this too early you won't see any descriptions:) BTW Cost for the Boot was 9 dollars:) It was less than the items I used to repair my boot when finding the original tear:)


Pic's loaded all out of order for some reason - oh well you'll get the gyst:)

Updating the part number if you can't find it with the below information:
CV Joint Boot Kit-EMPI w/ Clamps & Grease CV Boot Kit EMPI/EMPIRE Part# W0133-1637207-EMP

EMPI boot kit - Part Number: 86-2340-D is the part number on the box - but the number above is easier to find it with:)

IMG_3993.JPG


IMG_3970.JPG


Jackup car and remove center cap, then lower back down once you verify the fitment of the Bolt, IIRC it's a 35mm but could be incorrect, I have 32, 35 at the house so it's one of those - will edit later once I confirm.

IMG_3972.JPG


In order to break this loose you will need impact, if you don't have impact put the tires back on lower down and use breaker bar to break it loose - before you try make sure you beat the divot on the 35mm nut back up so its not holding it in place. Before breaking this loose cover up the sharp point on the lower control arm, I used shop towel and lots of duct tape...

IMG_3971.JPG


After you raise the car back up this is what you get - Now you need the first use of the sledge - I have a 5lb mini sledge and it worked perfectly! Knock the shit out of it and push it back through. At this point remove the 3 bolts (15mm IIRC) that connect the ball joint and the lower control arm. FYI, learn from my mistakes, YOU HAVE TO disconnect the top sway bar connection to me able to remove it:) Then you will need to muscle the brake and shock assembly back and out of the way, I tucked it against the back fender, while doing this you will be wrestling to remove the axle from the wheel bearing as well - good luck and lots of curse words:)

IMG_3975.JPG


Above is the space I worked with, I took at this point and duck taped the "sharp Point on the lower control arm, I did alot as didn't want to run the risk of puncturing the new boot.

IMG_3976.JPG


Now you have to get to this point, this requires all your balls as you have to beat the shit out of your absolutely pristine axle. You have to angle it down - then take your hammer and hit the innermost ring until it comes off..


You will end up with this below once you have successfully separated it:

IMG_3977.JPG


At this point I cleaned the inner shaft, - removing all old grease and put the band clamp, and the boot on and pushed it all the way up!

Below is pic of the clamp on and the boot in place.
IMG_3982.JPG



IMG_3981.JPG


Now you have to clean all the old grease out of your axle joint - this took some work, you don't want to mix grease, I got ALOT out, but use vigilance here:) Move it around alot and work your cleaning towel/rag down in there and rotate it around alot, more and more will come out...

IMG_3979.JPG


I then repacked it with the included special lithium grease for axles as you can see:) Once again move it around and really force the grease down in there - majority of the grease should be in here - remainder will go inside your axle boot before you clamp it all together.

IMG_3983.JPG


Now you see the boot slipped on, what you can't see is the use of the Sledge to get it to snap back on, and the use of the screwdriver to push both sides of the ring clip that prevents it from going back on - enjoy getting grease all over you, and alot of curse words at this point to get it back on. It didn't give me a satisfying clunk or thud when it went on either - it just went on after alot of beating it. FYI, un-connect the clamps and put them pretty tight on there, it's almost impossible to slip the clamps over the boots with the "pre-configured" tension on them, it's simple you will have to "fiddle" with it a bit:)

IMG_3984.JPG


This is the scary part for me, the same cutters I used to cut off the old bands, I now am using to tighten the band clamps... Thats what it calls for so don't be scared it's re-enforced metal bands in those spots. Make sure you get it tight enough as the band clamps can be adjusted - the instructions in the EMPI reboot cover this for you a bit...

IMG_3985.JPG


Nut back on and torqued, then push the tab back down in place with a screwdriver and your sledge.

IMG_3988.JPG


A look at the new boot - took around 45 minutes, and saved me the cost of an Axle = 165, and since this was passenger side I gather now that it saved me the cost of the axle bracket and extension as well which is another 165 bucks!!!!!!!!!! I's not cleaned or wiped up in this pic:)

IMG_3986.JPG


IMG_3974.JPG


Since the pics loaded out of order it kinda messed up my rythm, also can't delete this last pic for some reason, so enjoy my now chipped paint on my rotors, and my spacers as well as the working space I had to do this:)
one more question i used the part # to locate the boot you have and i found it. I went via Ebay to see if they sell them yes they do but when i add my car it says that it doesn’t fit. Is this a universal boot for all JDM? Because I seen that even the Nissan titan uses the same boot .
 


 


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