Replacing Torn CV Boot on Axle Shaft!

bahndrvr

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Alright - a while back I installed my Eibachs and even with care my passenger side boot got ripped. I repaired it and the repair lasted around 10k miles, but found a cross-referenced part on here for Mitsubishi Outlander v6 CV Boot - the part number will be in the pictures below:)

I will create this thread, then after pics have loaded will go back and put the steps in so if you see this too early you won't see any descriptions:) BTW Cost for the Boot was 9 dollars:) It was less than the items I used to repair my boot when finding the original tear:)


Pic's loaded all out of order for some reason - oh well you'll get the gyst:)

Updating the part number if you can't find it with the below information:
CV Joint Boot Kit-EMPI w/ Clamps & Grease CV Boot Kit EMPI/EMPIRE Part# W0133-1637207-EMP

EMPI boot kit - Part Number: 86-2340-D is the part number on the box - but the number above is easier to find it with:)

Honda Civic 10th gen Replacing Torn CV Boot on Axle Shaft! IMG_3993.JPG


Honda Civic 10th gen Replacing Torn CV Boot on Axle Shaft! IMG_3970.JPG


Jackup car and remove center cap, then lower back down once you verify the fitment of the Bolt, IIRC it's a 35mm but could be incorrect, I have 32, 35 at the house so it's one of those - will edit later once I confirm.

Honda Civic 10th gen Replacing Torn CV Boot on Axle Shaft! IMG_3972.JPG


In order to break this loose you will need impact, if you don't have impact put the tires back on lower down and use breaker bar to break it loose - before you try make sure you beat the divot on the 35mm nut back up so its not holding it in place. Before breaking this loose cover up the sharp point on the lower control arm, I used shop towel and lots of duct tape...

Honda Civic 10th gen Replacing Torn CV Boot on Axle Shaft! IMG_3971.JPG


After you raise the car back up this is what you get - Now you need the first use of the sledge - I have a 5lb mini sledge and it worked perfectly! Knock the shit out of it and push it back through. At this point remove the 3 bolts (15mm IIRC) that connect the ball joint and the lower control arm. FYI, learn from my mistakes, YOU HAVE TO disconnect the top sway bar connection to me able to remove it:) Then you will need to muscle the brake and shock assembly back and out of the way, I tucked it against the back fender, while doing this you will be wrestling to remove the axle from the wheel bearing as well - good luck and lots of curse words:)

Honda Civic 10th gen Replacing Torn CV Boot on Axle Shaft! IMG_3975.JPG


Above is the space I worked with, I took at this point and duck taped the "sharp Point on the lower control arm, I did alot as didn't want to run the risk of puncturing the new boot.

Honda Civic 10th gen Replacing Torn CV Boot on Axle Shaft! IMG_3976.JPG


Now you have to get to this point, this requires all your balls as you have to beat the shit out of your absolutely pristine axle. You have to angle it down - then take your hammer and hit the innermost ring until it comes off..


You will end up with this below once you have successfully separated it:

Honda Civic 10th gen Replacing Torn CV Boot on Axle Shaft! IMG_3977.JPG


At this point I cleaned the inner shaft, - removing all old grease and put the band clamp, and the boot on and pushed it all the way up!

Below is pic of the clamp on and the boot in place.
Honda Civic 10th gen Replacing Torn CV Boot on Axle Shaft! IMG_3982.JPG



Honda Civic 10th gen Replacing Torn CV Boot on Axle Shaft! IMG_3981.JPG


Now you have to clean all the old grease out of your axle joint - this took some work, you don't want to mix grease, I got ALOT out, but use vigilance here:) Move it around alot and work your cleaning towel/rag down in there and rotate it around alot, more and more will come out...

Honda Civic 10th gen Replacing Torn CV Boot on Axle Shaft! IMG_3979.JPG


I then repacked it with the included special lithium grease for axles as you can see:) Once again move it around and really force the grease down in there - majority of the grease should be in here - remainder will go inside your axle boot before you clamp it all together.

Honda Civic 10th gen Replacing Torn CV Boot on Axle Shaft! IMG_3983.JPG


Now you see the boot slipped on, what you can't see is the use of the Sledge to get it to snap back on, and the use of the screwdriver to push both sides of the ring clip that prevents it from going back on - enjoy getting grease all over you, and alot of curse words at this point to get it back on. It didn't give me a satisfying clunk or thud when it went on either - it just went on after alot of beating it. FYI, un-connect the clamps and put them pretty tight on there, it's almost impossible to slip the clamps over the boots with the "pre-configured" tension on them, it's simple you will have to "fiddle" with it a bit:)

Honda Civic 10th gen Replacing Torn CV Boot on Axle Shaft! IMG_3984.JPG


This is the scary part for me, the same cutters I used to cut off the old bands, I now am using to tighten the band clamps... Thats what it calls for so don't be scared it's re-enforced metal bands in those spots. Make sure you get it tight enough as the band clamps can be adjusted - the instructions in the EMPI reboot cover this for you a bit...

Honda Civic 10th gen Replacing Torn CV Boot on Axle Shaft! IMG_3985.JPG


Nut back on and torqued, then push the tab back down in place with a screwdriver and your sledge.

Honda Civic 10th gen Replacing Torn CV Boot on Axle Shaft! IMG_3988.JPG


A look at the new boot - took around 45 minutes, and saved me the cost of an Axle = 165, and since this was passenger side I gather now that it saved me the cost of the axle bracket and extension as well which is another 165 bucks!!!!!!!!!! I's not cleaned or wiped up in this pic:)

Honda Civic 10th gen Replacing Torn CV Boot on Axle Shaft! IMG_3986.JPG


Honda Civic 10th gen Replacing Torn CV Boot on Axle Shaft! IMG_3974.JPG


Since the pics loaded out of order it kinda messed up my rythm, also can't delete this last pic for some reason, so enjoy my now chipped paint on my rotors, and my spacers as well as the working space I had to do this:)
 
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lurker_j

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Your way of leaving the half axle in was smart. I couldn't find anything about how to mess around with the half axle or boot on this generation of Civic, so I had to transpose methods from older generations to this one. I tore my front passenger side boot when I lowered my car as well and decided to just do a whole half shaft replacement since I didn't want to mess with the boot and didn't know if the joint would still be good after all the exposure to elements and grease lost. The passenger side half shaft is different from the past Civics as it has that center support bracket between the axle into the transmission and the axle into the knuckle. I ended up just taking out the whole assembly from the transmission and had to slide hammer off the outer axle from the center support bracket.

Now I see that you could have just left it all in for a boot change . :p oh well you live and you learn.

How did you end up cleaning all the grease out of the joint? Is there a specific solvent you used? I'm thinking of cleaning my old half shaft out and inspecting it, then replacing the boot so I have a good replacement half-axle for later if needed.
 
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bahndrvr

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Your way of leaving the half axle in was smart. I couldn't find anything about how to mess around with the half axle or boot on this generation of Civic, so I had to transpose methods from older generations to this one. I tore my front passenger side boot when I lowered my car as well and decided to just do a whole half shaft replacement since I didn't want to mess with the boot and didn't know if the joint would still be good after all the exposure to elements and grease lost. The passenger side half shaft is different from the past Civics as it has that center support bracket between the axle into the transmission and the axle into the knuckle. I ended up just taking out the whole assembly from the transmission and had to slide hammer off the outer axle from the center support bracket.

Now I see that you could have just left it all in for a boot change . :p oh well you live and you learn.

How did you end up cleaning all the grease out of the joint? Is there a specific solvent you used? I'm thinking of cleaning my old half shaft out and inspecting it, then replacing the boot so I have a good replacement half-axle for later if needed.

NOOOOOO solvent - I didn't want any thing that can break the future/new grease down, I moved and moved the housing and axle around and worked it all out. I used the thin blue shop towels you get at auto parts stores and used my fingers etc. There was no foreign stuff in there when I put it back together! IT took me a good 5 mins to get the grease out of the joint. I would Definitely recommend rebuilding your stocker - and if nothing else, you can easily resell it. Honda wants 320 an axle, and parts stores cheapest I found was 165+ shipping. You could rebuild and sell as new easily, I will say if you don't have a vice knocking the end off will be impossible though since it's not in place!

I found out about the center housing/support from passenger side by accident when the guy doing the Si transmission into the Hatchback Sport posted about it as I was giving him lots of feedback on what to expect, and it clicked for me on one of his post!
 

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NOOOOOO solvent - I didn't want any thing that can break the future/new grease down, I moved and moved the housing and axle around and worked it all out. I used the thin blue shop towels you get at auto parts stores and used my fingers etc. There was no foreign stuff in there when I put it back together! IT took me a good 5 mins to get the grease out of the joint. I would Definitely recommend rebuilding your stocker - and if nothing else, you can easily resell it. Honda wants 320 an axle, and parts stores cheapest I found was 165+ shipping. You could rebuild and sell as new easily, I will say if you don't have a vice knocking the end off will be impossible though since it's not in place!

I found out about the center housing/support from passenger side by accident when the guy doing the Si transmission into the Hatchback Sport posted about it as I was giving him lots of feedback on what to expect, and it clicked for me on one of his post!
LOL once again I'm glad I found this before I threw any chemicals in there. Thanks for the heads up about the cleaning process. Definitely going to get this axle usable again. When I knocked the two axle pieces apart, I had a vice that was bolted to the ground. Good thing there is a local shop around me that I can use. At home, I definitely wouldn't have been able to get it done as easily. I didn't realize a slide hammer would work until a tech who works at the shop helped me figure the process out.

Honda charges ridiculous prices for their stuff and even told me at the dealership that the boot kit was on backorder with an unknown ETA. Is that a boot kit from Honda or one from an auto parts store?
 
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bahndrvr

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LOL once again I'm glad I found this before I threw any chemicals in there. Thanks for the heads up about the cleaning process. Definitely going to get this axle usable again. When I knocked the two axle pieces apart, I had a vice that was bolted to the ground. Good thing there is a local shop around me that I can use. At home, I definitely wouldn't have been able to get it done as easily. I didn't realize a slide hammer would work until a tech who works at the shop helped me figure the process out.

Honda charges ridiculous prices for their stuff and even told me at the dealership that the boot kit was on backorder with an unknown ETA. Is that a boot kit from Honda or one from an auto parts store?
There is NO Honda boot kit out right now.... Car is still new even though the outer boots are the same for all Civic models, the inward axles are larger on the Si's than all others. TypeR uses different axles and they are longer so don't even consider them I would assume spline differences as well... I used the part number EMPI boot kit - Part Number: 86-2340-D bought from RockAuto"thanks to someone else on here can't remember username", and it's a Mitsubishi part number but works perfectly! It's the first picture and I ordered it from RockAuto for just under 10 bucks and I had a single time free shipping coupon that I used for it:)

If you go to Honda to get it replaced it will run you around 4-500 bucks as they will put new axles in...
 


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There is NO Honda boot kit out right now.... Car is still new even though the outer boots are the same for all Civic models, the inward axles are larger on the Si's than all others. TypeR uses different axles and they are longer so don't even consider them I would assume spline differences as well... I used the part number EMPI boot kit - Part Number: 86-2340-D bought from RockAuto"thanks to someone else on here can't remember username", and it's a Mitsubishi part number but works perfectly! It's the first picture and I ordered it from RockAuto for just under 10 bucks and I had a single time free shipping coupon that I used for it:)

If you go to Honda to get it replaced it will run you around 4-500 bucks as they will put new axles in...
Sometimes ya just gotta improvise and adapt to the situations. Honda said they'd replace the boot under warranty, but from what you said, it makes sense why they haven't called me back about an appointment. And I wasn't about to just let my boot keep leaking out with the axle exposed either. But your boot looks good too! Wouldn't have even recognized it as a boot for another car. Thanks for all the little nuggets of info.
 

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Sometimes ya just gotta improvise and adapt to the situations. Honda said they'd replace the boot under warranty, but from what you said, it makes sense why they haven't called me back about an appointment. And I wasn't about to just let my boot keep leaking out with the axle exposed either. But your boot looks good too! Wouldn't have even recognized it as a boot for another car. Thanks for all the little nuggets of info.
Are your axles fixed yet?
 

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Alright - a while back I installed my Eibachs and even with care my passenger side boot got ripped. I repaired it and the repair lasted around 10k miles, but found a cross-referenced part on here for Mitsubishi Outlander v6 CV Boot - the part number will be in the pictures below:)

I will create this thread, then after pics have loaded will go back and put the steps in so if you see this too early you won't see any descriptions:) BTW Cost for the Boot was 9 dollars:) It was less than the items I used to repair my boot when finding the original tear:)


Pic's loaded all out of order for some reason - oh well you'll get the gyst:)

Updating the part number if you can't find it with the below information:
CV Joint Boot Kit-EMPI w/ Clamps & Grease CV Boot Kit EMPI/EMPIRE Part# W0133-1637207-EMP

EMPI boot kit - Part Number: 86-2340-D is the part number on the box - but the number above is easier to find it with:)

IMG_3993.JPG


IMG_3970.JPG


Jackup car and remove center cap, then lower back down once you verify the fitment of the Bolt, IIRC it's a 35mm but could be incorrect, I have 32, 35 at the house so it's one of those - will edit later once I confirm.

IMG_3972.JPG


In order to break this loose you will need impact, if you don't have impact put the tires back on lower down and use breaker bar to break it loose - before you try make sure you beat the divot on the 35mm nut back up so its not holding it in place. Before breaking this loose cover up the sharp point on the lower control arm, I used shop towel and lots of duct tape...

IMG_3971.JPG


After you raise the car back up this is what you get - Now you need the first use of the sledge - I have a 5lb mini sledge and it worked perfectly! Knock the shit out of it and push it back through. At this point remove the 3 bolts (15mm IIRC) that connect the ball joint and the lower control arm. FYI, learn from my mistakes, YOU HAVE TO disconnect the top sway bar connection to me able to remove it:) Then you will need to muscle the brake and shock assembly back and out of the way, I tucked it against the back fender, while doing this you will be wrestling to remove the axle from the wheel bearing as well - good luck and lots of curse words:)

IMG_3975.JPG


Above is the space I worked with, I took at this point and duck taped the "sharp Point on the lower control arm, I did alot as didn't want to run the risk of puncturing the new boot.

IMG_3976.JPG


Now you have to get to this point, this requires all your balls as you have to beat the shit out of your absolutely pristine axle. You have to angle it down - then take your hammer and hit the innermost ring until it comes off..


You will end up with this below once you have successfully separated it:

IMG_3977.JPG


At this point I cleaned the inner shaft, - removing all old grease and put the band clamp, and the boot on and pushed it all the way up!

Below is pic of the clamp on and the boot in place.
IMG_3982.JPG



IMG_3981.JPG


Now you have to clean all the old grease out of your axle joint - this took some work, you don't want to mix grease, I got ALOT out, but use vigilance here:) Move it around alot and work your cleaning towel/rag down in there and rotate it around alot, more and more will come out...

IMG_3979.JPG


I then repacked it with the included special lithium grease for axles as you can see:) Once again move it around and really force the grease down in there - majority of the grease should be in here - remainder will go inside your axle boot before you clamp it all together.

IMG_3983.JPG


Now you see the boot slipped on, what you can't see is the use of the Sledge to get it to snap back on, and the use of the screwdriver to push both sides of the ring clip that prevents it from going back on - enjoy getting grease all over you, and alot of curse words at this point to get it back on. It didn't give me a satisfying clunk or thud when it went on either - it just went on after alot of beating it. FYI, un-connect the clamps and put them pretty tight on there, it's almost impossible to slip the clamps over the boots with the "pre-configured" tension on them, it's simple you will have to "fiddle" with it a bit:)

IMG_3984.JPG


This is the scary part for me, the same cutters I used to cut off the old bands, I now am using to tighten the band clamps... Thats what it calls for so don't be scared it's re-enforced metal bands in those spots. Make sure you get it tight enough as the band clamps can be adjusted - the instructions in the EMPI reboot cover this for you a bit...

IMG_3985.JPG


Nut back on and torqued, then push the tab back down in place with a screwdriver and your sledge.

IMG_3988.JPG


A look at the new boot - took around 45 minutes, and saved me the cost of an Axle = 165, and since this was passenger side I gather now that it saved me the cost of the axle bracket and extension as well which is another 165 bucks!!!!!!!!!! I's not cleaned or wiped up in this pic:)

IMG_3986.JPG


IMG_3974.JPG


Since the pics loaded out of order it kinda messed up my rythm, also can't delete this last pic for some reason, so enjoy my now chipped paint on my rotors, and my spacers as well as the working space I had to do this:)

What do you mean that your old repair lasted 10k miles?
 

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Are your axles fixed yet?
The original axle I took off? No not yet. It’s just sitting in a box for now. I put a whole new axle in the car so id Stop driving with a sketchy boot and possibly axle down the line. Honda dealer said they’d repair my boot but never got back to me so I just took matters into my own hands
 

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As ridiculous as it may sound, we use tongue depressers in the Navy to clean the grease from the bearings on our motor-generators. It lets you get in and around the ball bearings and get what you can out w/o leaving any residue... and only lint free cloths to prevent leaving anything inside them.

Just an idea for a cheap, disposable tool that's soft enough to not scratch anything, won't leave anything behind and actually works pretty well. It's funny... but it's actually considered the proper tool for the job. I bet popsicle sticks from a grocery store would be easy to come by.

We also use wooden wedges to strike the bearing caps free. Wooden wedges work wonders in knocking stuff loose w/o marring anything. You just beat on the back if the wedge if you have something that a rubber mallet won't quite suffice for and it'll pop it right off. This is, of course, assuming you have the room for it.

Just an idea for any future endeavors. Good on you for doing this and sharing. I don't think I've seen this on the site in the ~year I've been here.
 


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bahndrvr

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I happened to also tear the outer CV boot on the passenger side while installing my Eibach Pro-Kit springs, thank you for this thread! I was not looking forward to taking it to Honda and would rather fix this myself, I've only put about 10 miles on the car since it tore last weekend so hopefully fixing it this early will prevent the bearings/axle from shitting themselves too soon down the road.

Couldn't find the boot kit on RockAuto but I did find it here for about 9 bucks + shipping:

https://www.autopartswarehouse.com/...s-driveshaft-and-4wd/cv-boot/empi/emp862340d#
 
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bahndrvr

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does the boot fit either driver or passenger? my driver side boot is ripped
Yeap driver or passenger outer boot, inner boot will be different, haven't had to look it up or cross reference that one as of yet - Hope to never as well;0-)
 

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So to take off the axle bolt, I can’t just unblot it & take it off ? I have to play with the divot ? I’m taking my axle off on my ext later today.
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