Replacing Speakers on Sport Touring Hatch and Subwoofer Modification

Spencer2131

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I just purchased a 2020 sport touring hatchback and while the audio is decent, I was really disappointed with the lack of bass and just overall richness of the sound. I was looking originally into an under the seat all in one sub, but figured I'd do a complete overhaul and just replace all of the stock speakers. Alpine has a set of Type R speakers that are compatible, but wasn't sure if that level of sound would be too much for the car. I really want rich sound not crazy loud rattling the car sound. Going into this, what do i need to consider when it comes to amps, actually installing the speakers and additional materials that people don't normally consider. I was also wondering if anyone has had any luck extending the current sub's compartment so they could fit a larger depth sub into it. An 8" diameter is fine, but the sub I'm looking at needs a 4.5" space where OEM is 3.5". Please anyone give your thoughts, I'd really appreciate it.
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I can tell you that just wiring in an aftermarket amplifier into the stock sub was a huge improvement. Could also look at shallow mount subs if you want to keep the stock box.
 

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I just put in the Cerwin Vega 12" spare tire unit VPAS12ST. Unbelievable difference since didn't come with a sub.
 
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I can tell you that just wiring in an aftermarket amplifier into the stock sub was a huge improvement. Could also look at shallow mount subs if you want to keep the stock box.
I figured that'd add depth, but at this point if Im already doing the rest Im thinking of just doing a full commitment and calling it a day.

Also did you do any sound deadening? Have you found it necessary and why if you did.
 


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I figured that'd add depth, but at this point if Im already doing the rest Im thinking of just doing a full commitment and calling it a day.

Also did you do any sound deadening? Have you found it necessary and why if you did.
I didn't do any sound deadening, partly because I didn't have the money for it, and partly because I didn't see a lot of need for it. It can't hurt, just not that important to me.
 

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I wouldn't reuse the OEM enclosure. It sucks for the OEM sub and is even worse for anything aftermarket.
There is no such thing as "too much for the car." If you don't want it loud, don't turn it up.
Deadening will make a HUGE difference and I highly recommend doing at least the doors. I would also seal up the GIANT hole Honda leaves in the door with some sheet aluminum.
You're going to need wiring, materials to make adapters for the door mids (or you can have them made) but DO NOT make them from MDF. Use some manner of plastic since you won't have worry about the moisture causing them to swell and deteriorate.
Don't bother replacing the rear speakers. They aren't important enough to spend the money on.
Don't use car audio branded cabling. Welding Wire is 100% oxygen-free copper (so it won't oxidize) and is WAY cheaper. (www.royalexcelene.com) You don't need huge wiring either. A single 4 gauge wire will be plenty for most, but I'd have to know what amps you are using first. You won't need a speaker larger than a 16 gauge, not even for the sub.
You will need to budget for connectors, zip ties, nuts and bolts, screws, and probably a few tools you don't already have.

If all you're looking at doing is a sub, then you really only need an amp kit, the amp, maybe some speaker wire, a sub, the enclosure, and miscellaneous connectors. I'd still deaden the doors though. Even with the OEm=M speakers it makes a difference.
 
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I wouldn't reuse the OEM enclosure. It sucks for the OEM sub and is even worse for anything aftermarket.
There is no such thing as "too much for the car." If you don't want it loud, don't turn it up.
Deadening will make a HUGE difference and I highly recommend doing at least the doors. I would also seal up the GIANT hole Honda leaves in the door with some sheet aluminum.
You're going to need wiring, materials to make adapters for the door mids (or you can have them made) but DO NOT make them from MDF. Use some manner of plastic since you won't have worry about the moisture causing them to swell and deteriorate.
Don't bother replacing the rear speakers. They aren't important enough to spend the money on.
Don't use car audio branded cabling. Welding Wire is 100% oxygen-free copper (so it won't oxidize) and is WAY cheaper. (www.royalexcelene.com) You don't need huge wiring either. A single 4 gauge wire will be plenty for most, but I'd have to know what amps you are using first. You won't need a speaker larger than a 16 gauge, not even for the sub.
You will need to budget for connectors, zip ties, nuts and bolts, screws, and probably a few tools you don't already have.

If all you're looking at doing is a sub, then you really only need an amp kit, the amp, maybe some speaker wire, a sub, the enclosure, and miscellaneous connectors. I'd still deaden the doors though. Even with the OEm=M speakers it makes a difference.
So right now im looking at these speakers for the front and back doors:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500RS65C2/Alpine-R-S65C-2.html

And this for the sub:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWR8D4/Alpine-SWR-8D4.html

I really liked this one pioneer amp i gotta find the link to, it was well reviewed from an installer on a separate forum. I know what you said about not bothering with the back, but at this point Im just gonna commit to the full experience for my passengers too. What recommendations do you have to fit this sub then? I don't want a hole from the original sub being missing and I really don't want to compromise trunk space more than necessary. My whole thought process was trying to make the right side of the trunk before the wheel well even with where the well extends in so it still looks not too modified and still has plenty of trunk.

Also what's your thoughts on a 5 channel amp vs a 4+1. My biggest disappointment was pioneer doesn't make a 100 watt rms version of the amp i was talking about so i can't use it anyway. Oh and im committed to sound deadening at this point for at least the 4 doors.
 


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Spencer2131

Spencer2131

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So right now im looking at these speakers for the front and back doors:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500RS65C2/Alpine-R-S65C-2.html

And this for the sub:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWR8D4/Alpine-SWR-8D4.html

I really liked this one pioneer amp i gotta find the link to, it was well reviewed from an installer on a separate forum. I know what you said about not bothering with the back, but at this point Im just gonna commit to the full experience for my passengers too. What recommendations do you have to fit this sub then? I don't want a hole from the original sub being missing and I really don't want to compromise trunk space more than necessary. My whole thought process was trying to make the right side of the trunk before the wheel well even with where the well extends in so it still looks not too modified and still has plenty of trunk.

Also what's your thoughts on a 5 channel amp vs a 4+1. My biggest disappointment was pioneer doesn't make a 100 watt rms version of the amp i was talking about so i can't use it anyway. Oh and im committed to sound deadening at this point for at least the 4 doors.
https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D9705
 

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I just added a 12" Solobaric and a 500 watt amp. Sounds way better than the factory sub. I actually just disconnected it.
 

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I wouldn't reuse the OEM enclosure. It sucks for the OEM sub and is even worse for anything aftermarket.
There is no such thing as "too much for the car." If you don't want it loud, don't turn it up.
Deadening will make a HUGE difference and I highly recommend doing at least the doors. I would also seal up the GIANT hole Honda leaves in the door with some sheet aluminum.
You're going to need wiring, materials to make adapters for the door mids (or you can have them made) but DO NOT make them from MDF. Use some manner of plastic since you won't have worry about the moisture causing them to swell and deteriorate.
Don't bother replacing the rear speakers. They aren't important enough to spend the money on.
Don't use car audio branded cabling. Welding Wire is 100% oxygen-free copper (so it won't oxidize) and is WAY cheaper. (www.royalexcelene.com) You don't need huge wiring either. A single 4 gauge wire will be plenty for most, but I'd have to know what amps you are using first. You won't need a speaker larger than a 16 gauge, not even for the sub.
You will need to budget for connectors, zip ties, nuts and bolts, screws, and probably a few tools you don't already have.

If all you're looking at doing is a sub, then you really only need an amp kit, the amp, maybe some speaker wire, a sub, the enclosure, and miscellaneous connectors. I'd still deaden the doors though. Even with the OEm=M speakers it makes a difference.
I want to emphasize two things what quality_sound posted.

You don't need to replace the rears because they're just back fill noise. Spend the money on a good set of fronts and a sub, powered by a decent amp. I'm currently working on my audio build right now. I'd recommend sound deadener, it makes a difference IMO.
 
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Spencer2131

Spencer2131

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Thanks everyone for the posts, I've been watching and mainly just observing right now between this and other AV forums. I'll update with pictures soon waiting on them from the shop I went to, but that's what I ended up doing. With the pictures I'll give the full story, but I did end up going with a 2.1 setup, (front door speakers and a sub replacement) with a full dsp setup and calibration to get around the the stock equalizer, and I got the doors deadened. In case it takes a minute for the pics to get sent to me, the big take home points from this experience are you only need the front doors done not the rear, you'll need the JL fix 82 and you'll love that you got it, and deaden... seriously like wow deaden every car you'll ever own AT LEAST the doors. I want to theoretically do the floor but the damn the doors help. Also again you're gonna have to shell out for sound processing but do it, once it's done you're setting yourself up for all future speaker setups. Thanks everyone again for the help and advice, you all really helped point me in the right direction
 


 


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