Replaced pads and rotors at 50k

[OsirisPalko]

At 50,000 miles I replaced my pads, rotors, as well as brake hardware. 85% of my miles are highway and arguably my front brakes didn't need a change, just a cleaning, however my rear pads and rotors were grooved and uneven. I replaced the front while I was at it so I can have even braking distribution, and preventative maintenance. About 85% of my miles are highway miles.

This won't be a tutorial, but I am going to describe the process, and decisions I made, so if you are looking to upgrade / repair / replace your brakes on a 2017 Honda Civic SI Sedan (or any 10th gen SI) this is for you. If you're looking for a photo tutorial, here's another post: https://www.civicx.com/threads/diy-rear-brake-pads-and-rotors-2017-si.41894/

Here's a gallery of all of the photos I had taken, including before, during, and afterwards. It's a google drive album, if there's a better way to share this quantity of photos please let me know.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1F0VcpO5pPQFY8BQ3-Tikqw2k7iFdHPTw?usp=sharing



The brake job is very standard. I went with the Power Stop Z23 kit, ordered it from CarID, because Honda wanted about $1,000 for an OEM kit. It came with slotted and drilled rotors, "carbon fiber" (lol) ceramic pads, and hardware. I still had to pickup hardware because the kit doesn't include boots, but if you're not doing every little detail then it's not a worry. The front is just like any other brakes - take off the wheel, removed the caliper bolts & caliper, as well as the bracket bolts & bracket. Clean and grease the slide pins, replace the pads, compress the piston with a C clamp, and reverse for installation.

For the rears, making sure that the parking brake was disengaged - I removed the caliper bolts that were actually hex, caliper, bracket bolts and bracket. I did not unplug the parking brake, I just was careful of the line, and proceeded like normal. I used the piston disc brake tool from the auto parts store, and re-assembled. I gave it a rotation check and had to re-do one of the rears (and give it some gentle mallet action) because the rotor wasn't evenly seated.

I confirmed the electronic parking brake was still functional, and I did not immediately bleed the brakes. Using the measurements from the PSI meter on our gauges, the OEM brake feel would bite starting at 1 PSI - without bleeding and after we had compressed the pistons, it would reach all the way up to 7PSI. We pulled it back in, bled the rear driver, rear passenger, front passenger, front driver. I saw some information on here saying to bleed the clutch during the process, and I did NOT do that, as I didn't see a reason, and even called Honda which said not to touch it for a brake bleed. There's still a soft point right around 1-2PSI, but it definitely feels as close I'm going to get it for now, an upcoming weekend I will flush it, cycle the ABS, and flush it again. On the next brake job, definitely time for painted rotors

I'm happy to answer any questions.

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[Fit2Hatch]

There is a factory recommended brake bleed sequence. I don't take chances with brakes.

After I changed to G-Stop brake lines last weekend. I bleed all four corners, started FL, FR, RR, LR cycled parking brake 6 times, re-bleed both rear. After, removed aluminum cover, then I bleed clutch from below.
I used Motive for pressure along with a modified dedicated adapter cap for reservoir. One man. On my Corvette, I use different procedure as per factory recommendation.

 

[OsirisPalko]

Sure, there's a factory recommended, the Honda I called said bleeding the clutch slave wasn't necessary since it was it's own sealed system so I didn't take on the task. Replacing lines would definitely warrant a whole flush as opposed to a bleed. Was the process of changing the lines difficult?

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