Removing the fuel regulator

[BBTypeR]

The new JSR intank setup does this
It basically removes all the restrictions from the basket (fuel regulator, oem fuel filter, tiny lines) and replaces it with a 535lph modified pump that hangs by itself....incorporates an inline 1000hp fuel lab regulator and stainless fuel lab filter that's serviceable. Add in the -6 AN fuel line that uses the stock line as a return and now you have amazing flow, consistent fuel pressure and no chance of having the oem fuel filter sending garbage to your expensive hpfp and injectors or losing a motor. Track guys could easily incorporate a surge tank if they wanted to as well but 99% of guys would be fine with the kit as it comes.

I'm on the dw300c right now - great pump - but unfortunately i refuse to risk another set of injectors/pump/motor with the oem fuel filter so I'll be upgrading asap

Fuel is really our biggest jssue and when you look at the basket and how small the holes/ lines are - the JSR upgrade becomes a must really - especially if you are on E which breaks down the paper/glue in the oem fuel filter.

So you can either keep replacing the oem basket ($125 + pita install) or spring for the upgrade and get peace of mind and alot more headroom for safe power. I've been bugging them for this as I know there are alot of us in the same boat. You can do a more fancy setup and spend more as others have but I think the target price was $1500ish which includes the pump, reg, line, relay etc is dirt cheap for what you get.

Hopefully they can keep the cost low as this is more of a safety mod first and performance upgrade second.

I've been talking with XDI about their recommended ID F750 inline fuel filter. Adding it between the hard line and PRL flex fuel sensor.

Would that catch the degrading filter and glue?

 

[Learn2turn:)]

I've been talking with XDI about their recommended ID F750 inline fuel filter. Adding it between the hard line and PRL flex fuel sensor.

Would that catch the degrading filter and glue?

I believe it would. It is still better to remove or bypass the filter all together, I am sure John did that.

I say run a hose from the DW300c pump straight to the hat, bypassing the filter and regulator, then an inline filter upstream!
Hence my thread title here but noone has addressed removing the regulator specifically.

 

[sLing]

Here’s what John did with his. Looking to replicate it myself

Looks like he relocated the battery somewhere else?

 

[BrokeCTROwner]

Looks like he relocated the battery somewhere else?

That’s for his meth injection kit.

 

[speedyserg]

I believe it would. It is still better to remove or bypass the filter all together, I am sure John did that.

I say run a hose from the DW300c pump straight to the hat, bypassing the filter and regulator, then an inline filter upstream!
Hence my thread title here but noone has addressed removing the regulator specifically.

The JSR option removes the filter and factory regulator and replaces it with a fuel lab 1000hp regulator and fuel lab stainless inline filter with the -6AN line from the tank to the engine bay

Keeps the factory sandwich of basket+ lid and uses the floating hellcat pump and venturi line. You adjust the static low pressure with the fuel lab regulator much easier without the limiting flow of those tiny holes in the factory basket/regulator assembly

 

[Learn2turn:)]

The JSR option removes the filter and factory regulator and replaces it with a fuel lab 1000hp regulator and fuel lab stainless inline filter with the -6AN line from the tank to the engine bay

Keeps the factory sandwich of basket+ lid and uses the floating hellcat pump and venturi line. You adjust the static low pressure with the fuel lab regulator much easier without the limiting flow of those tiny holes in the factory basket/regulator assembly

I appreciate the effort and product development but it would be WAYYYY easier to just connect the DW300c to the top hat directly.
I still have not heard any reason we need a regulator at all, considering we need as much fuel as we can get!

 

[BrokeCTROwner]

I appreciate the effort and product development but it would be WAYYYY easier to just connect the DW300c to the top hat directly.
I still have not heard any reason we need a regulator at all, considering we need as much fuel as we can get!

I’ve been wondering the same thing since the hpfp is what is gonna regulate the fuel pressure to the injectors. The in tank side is just to feed the hpfp

 

[BrokeCTROwner]

Looking at aftermarket regulators and radium has this in their description about an in line regulator

 

[Learn2turn:)]

Our regulator is on the low side and I don't buy that it can dampen pulses at the fuel rail from all the way back thru the HPFP and into the fuel tank.

 

[BrokeCTROwner]

Our regulator is on the low side and I don't buy that it can dampen pulses at the fuel rail from all the way back thru the HPFP and into the fuel tank.

I agree. I’m talking about the red text that says not to run the regulator on a di car

 

[Learn2turn:)]

I agree. I’m talking about the red text that says not to run the regulator on a di car

Interesting...
I believe they are referring to vehicles that have a mechanical fuel pump AND direct injection. Which, I can't think of any because the mechanical fuel pump would not make the needed pressure to inject directly into a combustion chamber.
Hmmm

 

[tuxmonkey]

especially if you are on E which breaks down the paper/glue in the oem fuel filter.

It’s hard for be to believe that going from 10% EtOH to 30-40% breaks it down. Im not saying you’re wrong, I just can’t wrap my head around why. Im a chemist for oil and gas, and have done years of compatibility testing during product development using different hydrocarbon solvents with alcohols. How much are these filters? I might do a test myself to see if that’s actually the case.
I’m wanting to add the PRL flex fuel kit to my car and keep reading mixed reviews where some have had fantastic results for years with no reliability issues and then I read about how someone heard of someone with corrosion or other problems. I just want a solid answer on if going to E30-40 will kill my car.

 

[BBTypeR]

It’s hard for be to believe that going from 10% EtOH to 30-40% breaks it down. Im not saying you’re wrong, I just can’t wrap my head around why. Im a chemist for oil and gas, and have done years of compatibility testing during product development using different hydrocarbon solvents with alcohols. How much are these filters? I might do a test myself to see if that’s actually the case.
I’m wanting to add the PRL flex fuel kit to my car and keep reading mixed reviews where some have had fantastic results for years with no reliability issues and then I read about how someone heard of someone with corrosion or other problems. I just want a solid answer on if going to E30-40 will kill my car.

If the filter cost is expensive I'd be willing to chip in on the costs to get an answer.

 

[rtypefk8]

It’s hard for be to believe that going from 10% EtOH to 30-40% breaks it down. Im not saying you’re wrong, I just can’t wrap my head around why. Im a chemist for oil and gas, and have done years of compatibility testing during product development using different hydrocarbon solvents with alcohols. How much are these filters? I might do a test myself to see if that’s actually the case.
I’m wanting to add the PRL flex fuel kit to my car and keep reading mixed reviews where some have had fantastic results for years with no reliability issues and then I read about how someone heard of someone with corrosion or other problems. I just want a solid answer on if going to E30-40 will kill my car.

I look forward to your findings. Please let us know

 

[speedyserg]

It’s hard for be to believe that going from 10% EtOH to 30-40% breaks it down. Im not saying you’re wrong, I just can’t wrap my head around why. Im a chemist for oil and gas, and have done years of compatibility testing during product development using different hydrocarbon solvents with alcohols. How much are these filters? I might do a test myself to see if that’s actually the case.
I’m wanting to add the PRL flex fuel kit to my car and keep reading mixed reviews where some have had fantastic results for years with no reliability issues and then I read about how someone heard of someone with corrosion or other problems. I just want a solid answer on if going to E30-40 will kill my car.

It's not just the percentage of Ethanol but that's a large part of it - now add in me making 533whp+ through it.

This isn't an isolated case - many of us in California have replaced our filters multiple times. The filter itself is around $170 so it's not terribly expensive but can cause an engine failure which is much much more expensive.

The solution I asked for removes the oem filter from the puzzle altogether and replaces it with a serviceable stainless filter. More flow, more power potential, no contamination risks and simple cleaning procedure vs going back into the tank over and over.

John P came up with his own solution for his car on his way to feeding the 762whp he makes. Jake at JSR developed this one on his way to 720whp on DI only. That is unheard of as basically everyone at that power level or higher has been on port injection/secondary fueling.

I'll include a pic of my recently replaced filter that went in around October when I had my injector stuck wide open and removed about 2 weeks ago - it was dark again.