Remote Wire Options (as a backup)?

[NonyaBisness]

OK, so I finally finished wiring everything up and got the sub playing today, shut the car down, got cleaned up and headed off in my other car, when I got home I noticed the LED's of my amp where still on, for whatever reason the LC2i Pro didn't shutdown after I turned the car off, so I switched the turn on sensing over to GTO instead of Audio and that seams to be working but it takes like a full minute to shut off after turning the car off and with how weak the batteries in these cars are I kinda wouldn't mine having an actual remote wire to fall back on.

I did things a little different, instead of burying the LC2i in the dash I ran the speaker wire taps from behind the headunit back to the trunk so I could mount the LC2i in the back (for easy adjustments and tuning) and so I ran the speaker wire down the passenger side (since the power wire went down the drivers side) and in doing so I noticed what was labeled like HD Radio Module or something behind the trim panel that the passenger side rear seat seatbelt rides against and was wondering if any of those wires might be a suitable tap point for a remote wire (anyone have a wiring diagram for that guy??), as that is super easy to get to without having to run a wire all the way from the dash back to the equipment.

Here are some photos, I still gotta clean up the wiring a bit and bust out my SMD DD-1 so I can do the tuning, it started to rain right as I was finishing up the install so I didn't get to do anything more then set the levels high enough to produce some sound from the sub to confirm everything was working, didn't even get to get pictures till after dark.

Side note, those of you with LC2i Pro's (if any of you have the Pro version) what are your settings for the Accubass Level and Threshold?

 

[bikejog]

What's GTO? Are you sure the 1 minute delay is not a power off hysteresis implemented in the sub amplifier?

Anyway, looking at the wired side of the 10-pin female terminal

......................Tab........................
A10(RED, 6V), .... A2 (BLK, GND), A1 (Yel, 9V)

There's also a 9V power for the powered antenna amplifier at the connector with 2 round connectors and one pin. The pinned connector is 9V for the antenna amplifier.

Don't know if your sub can take these voltages or which one is the best one to tap into.

EDIT: Probably best to not tap into the 9V power for the antenna amplifier because it's provided by the tuner unit.

EDIT2: If the sub amplifier is Class-D, then you don't have to worry about the 1 minute delay because it draws very little current with no input signal.

 

[NonyaBisness]

What's GTO? Are you sure the 1 minute delay is not a power off hysteresis implemented in the sub amplifier?

Anyway, looking at the wired side of the 10-pin female terminal

......................Tab........................
A10(RED, 6V), .... A2 (BLK, GND), A1 (Yel, 9V)

There's also a 9V power for the powered antenna amplifier at the connector with 2 round connectors and one pin. The pinned connector is 9V for the antenna amplifier.

Don't know if your sub can take these voltages or which one is the best one to tap into.

EDIT: Probably best to not tap into the 9V power for the antenna amplifier because it's provided by the tuner unit.

EDIT2: If the sub amplifier is Class-D, then you don't have to worry about the 1 minute delay because it draws very little current with no input signal.

Here is the user manual https://www.audiocontrol.com/downloads/car/current/lc2i-pro/lc2i-pro-user-manual.pdf , it explains GTO as "DC offset is a high falutin technical term that means the LC2i PRO can sense when the head unit is on, not necessarily when audio is being sent to the LC2i PRO. Use GTO Signal Sense mode when your factory sound system outputs a DC offset when it is on."

And yes I'm sure it's not just the amp because the LC2i is also still powered on at this point and i've owned multiple amps built by this brand and never seen this behavior.

I was mainly just hoping to find a simple switched 12 volt wire near the back of the car as an option for a remote wire connection instead of using one of those fuse tap things and running another wire back from the dash.

 

[bikejog]

Here is the user manual https://www.audiocontrol.com/downloads/car/current/lc2i-pro/lc2i-pro-user-manual.pdf , it explains GTO as "DC offset is a high falutin technical term that means the LC2i PRO can sense when the head unit is on, not necessarily when audio is being sent to the LC2i PRO. Use GTO Signal Sense mode when your factory sound system outputs a DC offset when it is on."

And yes I'm sure it's not just the amp because the LC2i is also still powered on at this point and i've owned multiple amps built by this brand and never seen this behavior.

I was mainly just hoping to find a simple switched 12 volt wire near the back of the car as an option for a remote wire connection instead of using one of those fuse tap things and running another wire back from the dash.

There's an amp remote turn on signal going into the premium amplifier, but I don't think your Ex-T has the amp. I don't know where else you could tap a remote turn on signal besides the ACC power into the head unit or maybe the 12V socket. The 12V socket is switched off when not in ACC or ON isn't it?

 

[20BlackSi]

There's an amp remote turn on signal going into the premium amplifier, but I don't think your Ex-T has the amp. I don't know where else you could tap a remote turn on signal besides the ACC power into the head unit or maybe the 12V socket. The 12V socket is switched off when not in ACC or ON isn't it?

Hello, I'm actually trying to pull a switchable 12v remote power source to turn on my LC7i, you mentioned an amp remote turn on, any idea which wire to tap into using the following diagrams? https://www.civicx.com/forum/attachments/amplifier_connectors-pdf.142999/
Unfortunately, I won't be able to use the auto on feature of that LC the way I need to hook it up (only currently using front speakers for subs output.

 

[bikejog]

Hello, I'm actually trying to pull a switchable 12v remote power source to turn on my LC7i, you mentioned an amp remote turn on, any idea which wire to tap into using the following diagrams? https://www.civicx.com/forum/attachments/amplifier_connectors-pdf.142999/
Unfortunately, I won't be able to use the auto on feature of that LC the way I need to hook it up (only currently using front speakers for subs output.

I answered a similar question here https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/stereo-wiring-assistance.56866/page-2#post-917580

But for your Si with factory external amp, A23 is RED not YEL as showed in that post. Also read my warning a few posts down from that mentioning you should only use A23 for remote turn on signal and not to directly power any amplifier.

EDIT: There's actually another option. C14. This one you definitely only want to use it as a remote turn-on signal and not to power anything directly.

 

[20BlackSi]

I answered a similar question here https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/stereo-wiring-assistance.56866/page-2#post-917580

But for your Si with factory external amp, A23 is RED not YEL as showed in that post. Also read my warning a few posts down from that mentioning you should only use A3 and A23 for remote turn on signal and not to directly power any amplifier.

EDIT: There's actually another option. C14. This one you definitely only want to use it as a remote turn-on signal and not to power anything directly.

Thanks for the quick reply Bikejog, your fast actions are much appreciated as we are so excited expanding our audio systems and can't wait to hear the results. On my diagram A3 is shown as continuous power source but I'm assuming and hopeful that this power supply is terminated as the car and radio are turned off. Also, per my link and car, I don't show an A23, my two red wires are A3 and A4. My car is a 2020 Si with the "premium" stereo and built in amp as you mentioned. The wires in the C Connector look very thin to attempt tying into. Perhaps A3 is my best option as long as not continuous hot after the car is shut down.

You are correct, this power source I'm looking to connect with is to remotely trigger my Line Out Convertor and amp to turn on which will be powered through another higher amp fused circuit I created.

 

[bikejog]

Thanks for the quick reply Bikejog, your fast actions are much appreciated as we are so excited expanding our audio systems and can't wait to hear the results. On my diagram A3 is shown as continuous power source but I'm assuming and hopeful that this power supply is terminated as the car and radio are turned off. Also, per my link and car, I don't show an A23, my two red wires are A3 and A4. My car is a 2020 Si with the "premium" stereo and built in amp as you mentioned. The wires in the C Connector look very thin to attempt tying into. Perhaps A3 is my best option as long as not continuous hot after the car is shut down.

You are correct, this power source I'm looking to connect with is to remotely trigger my Line Out Convertor and amp to turn on which will be powered through another higher amp fused circuit I created.

No problem @20BlackSi.

I doubled checked the documentation regarding the factory amplifier A3 "+B AUDIO AMP" pin and it indeed is a continuous power source and it's live even when the car is shut-off. So unfortunately, A3 cannot be used as a remote turn-on signal. I will update my posts to remove such recommendations.

A23 was in reference to the head unit Connector A.

So that leaves you with 3 options for a remote turn-on tap point

• HU A23
• Factory AMP C14. I power an Arduino that consumes about 20mA with this and it seems to ok. So as long as your device doesn't pull too much current, then it should be safe to use. Make sure to check the voltage to make sure it's indeed 12V though. Yes the wire is very thin, I think around 22-24 AWG. I use a custom extension so I have no problem.
• Cigarette Lighter Socket.

 

[20BlackSi]

No problem @20BlackSi.

I doubled checked the documentation regarding the factory amplifier A3 "+B AUDIO AMP" pin and it indeed is a continuous power source and it's live even when the car is shut-off. So unfortunately, A3 cannot be used as a remote turn-on signal. I will update my posts to remove such recommendations.

A23 was in reference to the head unit Connector A.

So that leaves you with 3 options for a remote turn-on tap point

• HU A23
• Factory AMP C14. I power an Arduino that consume about 20mA with this and it seems to ok. So as long as your device doesn't pull too much current, then it should be safe to use. Make sure to check the voltage to make sure it's indeed 12V though. Yes the wire is very thin, I think around 22-24 AWG. I use a custom extension so I have no problem.
• Cigarette Lighter Socket.

Thanks @bikejog for clarifying that A3 +B AUDIO AMP is always a hot circuit. I'll have to give it some thought as to the three options you provided. I would love to tap into the C14 mentioned as I have the other speaker wires in Connector A but it makes me nervous working with such a small gauged wire. Thanks again for your help and providing options.

 

[bikejog]

Thanks @bikejog for clarifying that A3 +B AUDIO AMP is always a hot circuit. I'll have to give it some thought as to the three options you provided. I would love to tap into the C14 mentioned as I have the other speaker wires in Connector A but it makes me nervous working with such a small gauged wire. Thanks again for your help and providing options.

I understand why you'd be hesitant to tap into C14. For me C14 makes sense because I had to tap into the other signals in Connector C anyway. So I built an extension harness and tap into the wires in the extension.

I think the lighter socket is probably the easiest to tap into. You could easily T-Tap onto the back or just get one of those lighter plug to wires thingy.

 

[20BlackSi]

I understand why you'd be hesitant to tap into C14. For me C14 makes sense because I had to tap into the other signals in Connector C anyway. So I built an extension harness and tap into the wires in the extension.

I think the lighter socket is probably the easiest to tap into. You could easily T-Tap onto the back or just get one of those lighter plug to wires thingy.

Hello @bikedog,

I'm not sure why I didn't consider the 12v socket the first time you mentioned it. I was reading the message as to tap into an actual cigarette lighter and I was thinking, my car doesn't have one of those. Ha! I'll look a the access but I agree that 12v socket should be easy access for a T-Tap and use that for my remote power switch connection to trigger my Lc7i and amp to turn on. I'm confident that will work and even happier that I might not need to cut my C14 in half using a razor knife to strip the insulation. Have a great day!

 

[bikejog]

Hello @bikedog,

I'm not sure why I didn't consider the 12v socket the first time you mentioned it. I was reading the message as to tap into an actual cigarette lighter and I was thinking, my car doesn't have one of those. Ha! I'll look a the access but I agree that 12v socket should be easy access for a T-Tap and use that for my remote power switch connection to trigger my Lc7i and amp to turn on. I'm confident that will work and even happier that I might not need to cut my C14 in half using a razor knife to strip the insulation. Have a great day!

I guess I should start referring to it as 12V Socket from now on.

There're different size T-Tap connectors available that will allow you to T-Tap into a wire without cutting. Yeah, it should be easy to get to the back of the 12V Socket. If I remember correctly, all you have to do is to remove the rubber pad which will reveal a slot on the bottom. Then insert a hook into the slot and pull. But I'm not 100% sure. Look for videos for shifter install or center console removal to give you some ideas.

Or just get one of these https://www.amazon.com/s?k=cigartee...sprefix=cigartee+light,aps,152&ref=nb_sb_noss

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