Reliable Torque Wrench

SpoolAndGo

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I run different wheels during the winter with snow tires so my wheels are swapped a minimum twice a year and then also during inspections/repairs/etc. I'm super paranoid about lugs nuts coming loose, so is there a reliable, cost-effective torque wrench out there that will work good enough for lug nuts?

Would a ~$30 Amazon/Tekton/Harbor Freight wrench be OK to use? I don't have the cash to spend $150+ for a torque wrench but I don't want to buy a cheaper one if all it is going to do is break lug nuts and studs.
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davidgostbo

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I run different wheels during the winter with snow tires so my wheels are swapped a minimum twice a year and then also during inspections/repairs/etc. I'm super paranoid about lugs nuts coming loose, so is there a reliable, cost-effective torque wrench out there that will work good enough for lug nuts?

Would a ~$30 Amazon/Tekton/Harbor Freight wrench be OK to use? I don't have the cash to spend $150+ for a torque wrench but I don't want to buy a cheaper one if all it is going to do is break lug nuts and studs.
Yes a harbor freight one will suffice there’s coupons that make it 10$, their actually pretty decent calibration wise. Just make sure to torque lugs at 80 ft pounds, then always store them at 0 and you’ll be fine. Keep in mind cheap or expensive all torque wrenches will go out of spec eventually.
 

BarracksSi

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I would go with a beam-type torque wrench over any click-type version.

The last click-type wrench I used was broken. I had done two lug nuts at an indicated 80 ft-lbs but it didn't click, so I reset the dial to 20 ft-lbs as a test. It wouldn't click at that setting, either. Gave it back to the shop tech and had him find a beam-type wrench instead.

Click-type wrenches are okay if you can be sure to keep them working and calibrated, and if you need more speed when tightening your lugs. But a beam-type wrench is far less likely to break.
 

baldheadracing

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My click-type just died last week after 12 years. Failure was exactly as above. The retailer (Canadian Tire) used to offer a lifetime warranty but when I went to get a new one the warranty on the replacement is limited to 1 year. OTOH, I inherited a high-quality beam-type from my Dad, who bought it in 1972. I'm actually going to be using the beam more now because torque wrenches have gotten to be so very long that they don't fit in a (portable) toolbox.
 

BarracksSi

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Just remembered that they also make digital torque wrenches, which shouldn't have the same problem that click-type wrenches do. They'd measure the strain on an electrical component and then beep at you when you reach the chosen torque.

Beam-type is still the most reliable, though, and probably still the cheapest. First digital one I saw on Amazon was a little over a hundred bucks.
 


civicdabest-foo

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I bought a click-type torquer at a well-known Canadian farm supply chain and it failed after a month. Fortunately I only seriously overtorqued one bolt that held the plastic fairing on a dirt bike.

Like others have said, get a beam type. They're easier to calibrate too and hard to F up with.

If I'm not mistaken, a beam type torquer should be fine to use as a breaker too.
 

BarracksSi

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If I'm not mistaken, a beam type torquer should be fine to use as a breaker too.
Ehhh.... erm... I wouldn't use one for breaking anything loose. Torque wrenches should only be used for tightening. If the nut is frozen badly enough, you can exceed the torque value on the beam, and then you'd need a breaker bar anyway. Breaker bars are cheap enough to buy and keep in the box.
 

joshhjackson2112

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Yes a harbor freight one will suffice there’s coupons that make it 10$, their actually pretty decent calibration wise. Just make sure to torque lugs at 80 ft pounds, then always store them at 0 and you’ll be fine. Keep in mind cheap or expensive all torque wrenches will go out of spec eventually.
Can they go out of spec without use? If stored properly, can I pick up my barely used torque wrench after a year of no use and expect it to be calibrated correctly?
 

MadMage

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Hope no one minds me re-opening this thread.

What torque range(s) do we need for a 2020 CTR? At least for the majority of DIY stuff. I'm not going to be rebuilding engines or replacing a drive train. But for lugs, radiator, and other 'general' stuff, what typical ranges do I need to be able to torque to?
 


 


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