Recommend Daily + autoX Brake Fluid?

Tac3403

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Looking to get into Autocross in my 16 ex-t. I replaced the oem pads and rotors with Powerstop Drilled and slotted rotors and a carbon ceramic pad. They hold the heat better but the fluid gets so hot that it fades around the same time that the OE setup did. Should I go ahead and get braided lines? I don't really know too much about this stuff, its the first car that I am upgrading other than wheels on my old truck, and doing parts swaps or repairs like intake/manifold/exhaust.

What fluid and how much do I need? Do you guys think braided lines would be ideal, where should I buy them from? TSP had them at one point, but they are sold out for Non-Si Sedan lines.
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I've been running the bfgoodrich stainless steel brakelines and Motul 5.1 high temp brake fluid for over a year. Alongside my upgraded R1 Concepts Ceramic pads and diamond slotted & drilled rotors. Car stops on a dime. I got mine from MAPerformance. You can get them from Unity Performance too. The stainless steel brakelines will give you a more confident pedal feel and better braking, alongside the high temp brakefluid which wont get overheated and give you a mushy vague pedal feel. the Motul 5.1 is great for the street and even light tracking. If you're really serious about tracking, a lot, then the Motul RBF 600 might be better for you. It's nearly double the price of the Motul 5.1, but how often do you swap out brake fluid?
 
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Start with the basics first. Go for a high boiling temp break fluid, like Motul. No need to break the bank when you are still in the learning stage :)
 
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Hey Tyler, you can try just replacing the factory fluid first with some Moutul RBF600. It's what I use for AutoX and Track days currently. 3x bottles would be sufficient for a full flush:

https://unity-performance.com/products/motul-rbf-600-dot-4-brake-fluid

I'm not going to say jump in with brake lines as well, save yourself some money there to start. I'd even recommend more aggressive pads before upgrading the lines since the Powerstop Ceramic Pads you have are more of a daily driver replacement style compound, versus something like EBC Yellowstuff that can handle higher temperatures on track, yet still be a good daily driver pad. Don't consider these yet, just sharing the link for future reference:

https://unity-performance.com/products/ebc-yellow-stuff-front-brake-pads-all-civic-excl-si-type-r

Let me know if you've got any questions, I've tested all the pads I offer on my site on various 10th Gens :)
 

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I have Goodridge lines in stock, sharing for everyone's reference here who after pads and fluid still feel they can improve their factory braking system.

https://unity-performance.com/search?q=goodridge

The most I ever managed on my Si after brake upgrades was 9 grueling laps in a single session (I usually do 4-5), and the combination of EBC Yellowstuff + Motul RBF600 + Goodridge SS brake lines held up and stayed on the car until I sold it months later.

With a completely stock Si brake system two season prior I made it 4 laps each in 3 sessions before my pedal was on the floor, and my pads had been scorched and came down to less than 2mm - completely dead, the drive home was sketchy!
 


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Tac3403

Tac3403

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Hey Tyler, you can try just replacing the factory fluid first with some Moutul RBF600. It's what I use for AutoX and Track days currently. 3x bottles would be sufficient for a full flush:

https://unity-performance.com/products/motul-rbf-600-dot-4-brake-fluid

I'm not going to say jump in with brake lines as well, save yourself some money there to start. I'd even recommend more aggressive pads before upgrading the lines since the Powerstop Ceramic Pads you have are more of a daily driver replacement style compound, versus something like EBC Yellowstuff that can handle higher temperatures on track, yet still be a good daily driver pad. Don't consider these yet, just sharing the link for future reference:

https://unity-performance.com/products/ebc-yellow-stuff-front-brake-pads-all-civic-excl-si-type-r

Let me know if you've got any questions, I've tested all the pads I offer on my site on various 10th Gens :)
Comparing the two, I think this RBF600 is worth it over the 5.1 for sure.

I will definitely look into the EBC pads for my next set. do you run front and rear or just the fronts would be worth it? I would also probably be doing the lines at the same time, so I may end up just ordering all at once in the spring time. Then I can just let it all drain easy and not worry about getting extra fluid incase I spill lol.

Hopefully ill be ordering some suspension parts from you soon, eibach sportlines with spc rear camber arms. Your company is so helpful for the community with stuff like this, I appreciate it greatly!
 

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Comparing the two, I think this RBF600 is worth it over the 5.1 for sure.

I will definitely look into the EBC pads for my next set. do you run front and rear or just the fronts would be worth it? I would also probably be doing the lines at the same time, so I may end up just ordering all at once in the spring time. Then I can just let it all drain easy and not worry about getting extra fluid incase I spill lol.

Hopefully ill be ordering some suspension parts from you soon, eibach sportlines with spc rear camber arms. Your company is so helpful for the community with stuff like this, I appreciate it greatly!
Yes, the 600 is worth it if you're doing any type of HPDE or AutoX

Start with Front Pads only first, the Rears will hold up for some time. I did my first Front pad replacement at 15k miles after burning them up at the track, whereas I didn't touch my rear brakes till they were low at 35k miles

Happy to help! Also, look into a Rear Sway Bar if you haven't already, you'll dial out the understeer completely :)
 
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Tac3403

Tac3403

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Yes, the 600 is worth it if you're doing any type of HPDE or AutoX

Start with Front Pads only first, the Rears will hold up for some time. I did my first Front pad replacement at 15k miles after burning them up at the track, whereas I didn't touch my rear brakes till they were low at 35k miles

Happy to help! Also, look into a Rear Sway Bar if you haven't already, you'll dial out the understeer completely :)
I wanted to see how it felt on the springs, then I planned on a whiteline 22mm with adjustable end links. I should probably just buy an si to do this stuff on but its just too fun to wait! I swear it would be cheaper to buy a type r with the price of all the parts ive got on my list lol
 

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I wanted to see how it felt on the springs, then I planned on a whiteline 22mm with adjustable end links. I should probably just buy an si to do this stuff on but its just too fun to wait! I swear it would be cheaper to buy a type r with the price of all the parts ive got on my list lol
I'd even recommend Sway Bar before Springs, that's the best bang-for-buck suspension upgrade, and yes the Whiteline 22mm + Accord End Links is the most popular combo.

The Si certainly gives you the benefit of an LSD + stiffer dampers + re-tuned steering. But current interest rates and ADM isn't appealing at all. With a few upgrades and seat time, you'll stroll past Si's that are still rocking the awful stock wheels + Goodyear all seasons... oh yeah, please don't ignore the value of a great wheel and tire upgrade as that will always be #1 :)
 

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I currently use and in the past, have used ATE Typ 200 and its worked out well. Ill be making the switch to Motul RBF600 for next season though just to get a little more overhead out of the boiling properties.
 


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Tac3403

Tac3403

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I'd even recommend Sway Bar before Springs, that's the best bang-for-buck suspension upgrade, and yes the Whiteline 22mm + Accord End Links is the most popular combo.

The Si certainly gives you the benefit of an LSD + stiffer dampers + re-tuned steering. But current interest rates and ADM isn't appealing at all. With a few upgrades and seat time, you'll stroll past Si's that are still rocking the awful stock wheels + Goodyear all seasons... oh yeah, please don't ignore the value of a great wheel and tire upgrade as that will always be #1 :)
I plan on picking up a set of enkei ts9's with some DWS06 for daily driving, after I lower it. Stocks with a 20mm spacer (not going to run the spacer at the track) for now.
Will probably just run those until they die then use a summer tire till winter and put the stocks back on for that.

Ofc this is a daily driver foremost, and a weekend fun car second. Upgrade path isn't ideal for times but this thing sits like a monster truck lol.

DWS06 for the stock wheels this winter > Eibach Sportline Springs + SPC rear camber arms > H&R 20mm Hub centric Spacers > Brake Fluid > EBC Yellow Fronts > Braided lines > Whiteline 22mm Rear sway bar with accord end links > Enkei TS9 18x8.5 +35 with 235/40r18 ExtremeContact Sport > Phearable 1.5R > front and rear strut braces. . .

Currently:
Power: Ktuner V2.0. TSP Stage 1 w/ PRL cobra race maf

Brakes: Powerstop Drilled/Slotted Rotors with Z23 carbon ceramic pads (not great pads)

Cosmetic: OE mudguards, polished and clear coated my foggy headlights, Smoked side markers, Pro Civic Black Honeycomb Grille, Matte Black window trim wrap, HIC rear window visor, H mark valve stem caps, Black H badges, OE rubber floormats
I think that's all lol, Subtle but nice improvements
 
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I'm just using some plain ol Lucas Oil Dot 4 that was given to me. It should hold up just fine for AutoX which isn't that demanding on braking performance since the speeds are relatively low. If you don't mind the extra work, you could bleed the lines after each event to get some fresh fluid at the caliper. This will prolong the need for a full flush of the system.

With that being said I do have some RBF600 on standby waiting to go in the next time I do a brake overhaul. The Lucas stuff I'm using has a 446 F boiling point and the Motul RBF600 is 585! Since it gets hot here in California, the extra ceiling on the boiling point just brings a bit more peace of mind.
 

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I recommend ATE TYP 200 for price and performance
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