Rear clunking endlinks

[KOIVUN1]

How were you able to reach it from that angle and stand on it? Lol or was the bar adjustable on the end? Because its a tight fit in that space...

lol i realized that the end links can rotate 180 (360 technically) around the mount location on the sway bar, so what that allows you to do is take the sway bar out, crank down on those nuts, flip them around to not protrude from the end of the bar, reinstall bar and in stall end link nuts. it is tough tho i will say to do so with the stock sway bar as the bushings are fixed in place. any aftermarket one in free bushings should be no problem to twist down to get the end link bolts in place. a tip; either buy 5 of the allen keys for your end link stud, or buy a real good one. i broke three allen keys and 2 sockets putting that much torque on such thin cross sectional metal. good luck!

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[alao01]

Just installed the lateral locks, however with only myself installing it, I could only adjust the swaybar bracket and it was very difficult to center the bar so I left it how it was off-center.
Also ended up replacing the left endlink, test drove it. Clunked 2 times but went for a longer drive, and it seemed to be gone now. Going to keep driving it few more days and see if it comes back.

 

[Learn2turn]

Just installed the lateral locks, however with only myself installing it, I could only adjust the swaybar bracket and it was very difficult to center the bar so I left it how it was off-center.
Also ended up replacing the left endlink, test drove it. Clunked 2 times but went for a longer drive, and it seemed to be gone now. Going to keep driving it few more days and see if it comes back.

Don't leave it off center, use a pry bar and hold it straight with your knee or chest or bicep while you tighten the one lock which will stop its migration.

 

[alao01]

Don't leave it off center, use a pry bar and hold it straight with your knee or chest or bicep while you tighten the one lock which will stop its migration.

Will I need to loosen the endlinks again or can I adjust it with just the swaybar bracket off?

 

[Learn2turn]

Will I need to loosen the endlinks again or can I adjust it with just the swaybar bracket off?

You can push it over with a long prybar without loosening them but I think you have tightened them in such a way that the endlinks are pulling the sway bar off center so it could help to loosen them.

 

[L8apex]

Like koivuns said above, it’s best to tighten the endlinks to the sway bar while everything is off the car. Then fold the endlinks in and maneuver the bar and links into position.

Now that you’re past that, all you need to o to center the bar is unbolt the endlinks from the lower arms. This will let you pivot the swaybar up and down as you “walk” it to center. Bolt the endlinks to the arms again (if the bar was waaay off center to begin with, you might need to adjust the endlink lengths). Then install the Whiteline collars.

If you’re still getting clunking, remove everything and tighten the endlinks to the bar properly.

 

[thewestisblue]

Curious to know if this was resolved for OP and what ended up working

 

[Fasha]

If you want to save delivery charge, you could certainly make something similar with some help from your neighborhood hardware store.

 

[Manatee Bob]

Talked to the distributor of the 22mm Whiteline swaybar and they highly recommended applying Blue Loctite to the threads of their Whiteline end links on the bolt that goes through the end of the sway bar and requires the 5mm Allen wrench to keep the bolt from rotating. Also added the Whiteline sway bar anti-roll link kit (KLL122) that the distributor sells for $32 shipped for a pair. Installed the anti-roll link kit the suggested 4-5mm inside the sway bar frame bushings for elimination of sway bar lateral migration and possible binding (you can also place both anti-roll link kit pieces on the outside of the bushings 4-5mm which provides the same protection from lateral sway bar migration). Simply used a breaker bar tool and wedge it against a frame member to center the sway bar before installing the anti-roll link kit. The clunking completely disappeared and the sway bar stays in place through numerous cycles of car operation.

 

[jconnway]

It seems that everyone solves the clunk by torquing down the endlinks until they're about to break. That's what is sounds like anyway. I'm bringing my car in to the shop today for a few little things and hopefully they can fix this once and for all.

These are the called for torque specs:

Sway bushing brackets – 28 ft/lbs
End link nut – 38-42 ft/lbs
End link Lower bolt to control arm – 28 ft/lbs

 

[lurker_j]

I have the 26 mm RSB from whiteline and the only thing that solved my bolts getting loose was blue loctite no matter how hard I locked the bolts down by hand or impact.

 

[L8apex]

These are the called for torque specs:

Sway bushing brackets – 28 ft/lbs
End link nut – 38-42 ft/lbs
End link Lower bolt to control arm – 28 ft/lbs

The endlink nut is the wrong spec, it should be 55 ft/lbs. The other two specs are also wrong but close enough.

A couple of things to keep in mind:
1)- The manual calls for all these nuts and bolts to be replaced and not reused. So the above is the “new” torque spec. You will need to tighten them higher than spec if you are reusing the hardware.

2)-If you are using the Whiteline endlinks, the new hardware have pinched locking nuts which are harder to thread on but will keep them from loosening. These will require extra torque when final tightening to overcome that extra friction.

 

[jconnway]

The endlink nut is the wrong spec, it should be 55 ft/lbs. The other two specs are also wrong but close enough.

A couple of things to keep in mind:
1)- The manual calls for all these nuts and bolts to be replaced and not reused. So the above is the “new” torque spec. You will need to tighten them higher than spec if you are reusing the hardware.

2)-If you are using the Whiteline endlinks, the new hardware have pinched locking nuts which are harder to thread on but will keep them from loosening. These will require extra torque when final tightening to overcome that extra friction.

Got these specs from another post. But no one challenged them then. Whats correct?

I guess all the hardware is reused, the sway bar comes with nothing but bushings.

Same with the endlinks.

 

[L8apex]

Got these specs from another post. But no one challenged them then. Whats correct?

I guess all the hardware is reused, the sway bar comes with nothing but bushings.

Same with the endlinks.

The swaybar bushing bracket bolts are 27ft/lbs.
The swaybar endlink bolts to the lower control arm are 30ft/lbs.

 

[MrJustin81]

I have a related question. Yesterday installed a white line rear sway and accord endlinks in my 19 Si coupe. I couldn’t get the one bolt to torque down that attaches the endlinks to the lower control arm(?). I just ordered 2 new bolts but is it ok to drive like that until they come in tomorrow or Saturday? I’m just talking some normal city/highway driving.
thanks and sorry if this is to unrelated to OPs opening post.

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