Rare issue, Maybe red-line is causing refusal to go in to second gear? (RESOLVED)

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RoB y4h3ll

RoB y4h3ll

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Like others have stated. It looks to be your driving habits, and not your car. 1st to 2nd is the quickest to happen shift, and you have rev hang and not lifting in the mix...Lift between shifts, because your car is going to kill throttle either way shifting that high of RPM. Nothing wrong with revving it out, and you can still quickly lift, shift, and go again. This will likely help your issue of missing shifts.

Hey man, I didnt mean actually no lift shifting.

This is a copy paste and tailored reply from another reply that I corrected.

Its not exactly no lifting. I'm letting off like you should, its more of a figure of speech rather than how I was actually shifting. I'm pressing the clutch all the way in, and also letting off of the accelerator, then quickly putting the gear in then quickly letting off of the clutch, following that, pressing the accelerator quickly. Its only second gear that feels like the shift gate is still closed. Yes I did type "some times no lifting"... I didn't actually mean to type that out like that. I was on a long road trip that day, and had a just few minutes to write back. I usually respond on my rig so I have plenty of time to respond. I wasn't actually shifting without a clutch or without letting off of the accelerator. I apologize for the misunderstanding.

This is the honest truth. I've heard of horror storys over no lift shifting. Its something that the dealership could detect im sure. That would be a really stupid way to void some warranty repair work.

Like I said above, this is reposted to you for a better understanding of how I am actually driving the car.

I will correct the post with an edit.

(Post edited)


Ohh definitely, temps show fully heated to operating temperature when im having this issue... but I swear its only after sitting idle(engine running) for 5ish20ish minutes. Also take note, I am shifting pretty fast and some times *edit* its like *edit* no lifting the accelerator in order to keep boost up as much as possible.
*edit* Just to clarify, I DO lift the accelerator im just doing it so fast it doesnt sound like I am.*edit*

Now tell me if I am wrong, the faster you shift, the more boost you keep correct?
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RoB y4h3ll

RoB y4h3ll

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To add further detail to this issue, I feel like I am hitting the shift gate. I am not hearing any grinding, or any other noises.

I am hoping for any input from anyone with a 2020 civic Si. Maybe there is a new issue that hasn't been brought to anyones attention yet?
Since I have had this car, I have heard some weird noise in drive thrus, or near walls when releasing the clutch to start moving. It sounds like something small and loose with the clutch maybe. It performs correctly for the most part, other than the 1st-2nd problem I've mentioned.
The noise is usually associated with anything over 1000-1300rpms (only when letting off of the clutch). Its not that loud but it still sounds annoying. I dont hear it when in traffic or in open parking lots. I thought that this was just the clutch breaking in. Now that I'm nearly at 6k miles, I'm starting to believe that their is some other issue. The best way to describ this noise is kind of like a small piece of tape being flapped around I high speed wind.

I had one of the Honda techs drive the car and he said it sound, and drives fine.. lol.. what ever. Im sure if its an issue, honda will just have to replace what ever it is.
 

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Now tell me if I am wrong, the faster you shift, the more boost you keep correct?
Years ago when turbo impellers were bigger and made of steel, that was usually true. But our little turbos are made of aluminum and apparently spool down as fast as they spool up.
 
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RoB y4h3ll

RoB y4h3ll

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Years ago when turbo impellers were bigger and made of steel, that was usually true. But our little turbos are made of aluminum and apparently spool down as fast as they spool up.

That, and the waste gate opens as soon as you let off.. so no need for quicker shifting. Understood.
I plan on pushing about 300 coming 2021-2022 depending on mileage for the warranty. Ill just wait until then, no need to wear it out faster I guess.

Thanks for your input and not ragging on me like the other guys. Its my fault that it happened, but this place is suppose to be more friendly than what was posted back to me a few days ago. It was just a error in the format that I presented to everyone.
 
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So since I purchased my 2020 civic Si sedan, I have had some issues trying to quick shift in to second. More than often this happens after sitting idle in neutral (Clutch out of course) with the engine running for 5-20 minutes(Usually this seems to happen after leaving a car meet... so you know how awesome it is to miss a gear during these situations lol.. I leave and get on it pretty good. When shifting from first to second, some times the transmission absolutely refuses to switch to second. A buddy of mine said that it could be because I hit red-line.. Some times I do hit red-line but sometimes not.. I could be mistaken, but I think this could likely be the cause.. common sense says that this is obviously the issue. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

(Non k-tuned) 99% stock - No mods, just a K&N panel filter replacement for now.

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Hey man, first of all as some may have mentioned, you are jumping hard on a fresh car. While we want to drive our cars hard early on while we have full warranty, the car does not like that. Engine tolerances are so tight that not much oil can and will fit in the gaps. The rings are designed to wear in and fit the cylinders better after time. The plateau honing Honda performs on cylinders causes break-in to take longer but be more gradual and long-wearing. When it comes to transmission parts, synchros and cut gears, the synchros need a good 10k miles to break in and match one another. I had 1-2 crunch a few times. It sucks. I had misshifts too with high RPM engagement for example 75 mph 2nd gear that was meant to be 4th gear. As owners we too need time to learn our cars. We have to learn the timing things. This is not the Type R with auto rev-matching. It's all on you and me. I actually recommend any other gear fluid besides Honda. It does not protect very well at all. I want to try Driven's 60-70 Synchro Fluid, but so far I have been using a thicker fluid in Motul 75-90. It protects damage from occurring, via film strength but also because it makes the synchros stand out, call it making things more notchy. If I wanted the fast shifting badly I would try the Driven product but since I have a lowly HB Sport, I do not drive flat out or race. My clutch is too weak to engage it at higher RPM's and my warranty is near the end (59k).
 


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Hey man, first of all as some may have mentioned, you are jumping hard on a fresh car. While we want to drive our cars hard early on while we have full warranty, the car does not like that. Engine tolerances are so tight that not much oil can and will fit in the gaps. The rings are designed to wear in and fit the cylinders better after time. The plateau honing Honda performs on cylinders causes break-in to take longer but be more gradual and long-wearing. When it comes to transmission parts, synchros and cut gears, the synchros need a good 10k miles to break in and match one another. I had 1-2 crunch a few times. It sucks. I had misshifts too with high RPM engagement for example 75 mph 2nd gear that was meant to be 4th gear. As owners we too need time to learn our cars. We have to learn the timing things. This is not the Type R with auto rev-matching. It's all on you and me. I actually recommend any other gear fluid besides Honda. It does not protect very well at all. I want to try Driven's 60-70 Synchro Fluid, but so far I have been using a thicker fluid in Motul 75-90. It protects damage from occurring, via film strength but also because it makes the synchros stand out, call it making things more notchy. If I wanted the fast shifting badly I would try the Driven product but since I have a lowly HB Sport, I do not drive flat out or race. My clutch is too weak to engage it at higher RPM's and my warranty is near the end (59k).
Yea, but the thing is, I plan on pushing this car hard. If I blow it up, I blow it up. Ill just have them put another engine in. If the transmission can't hold, then it can't hold. Ill have them put another one in. I also have the 60k mile warranty. I also have the 4 year maintenance plan on top of everything. I didn't buy this car to grandma it around everywhere lol. Saying that, I don't want to just flat out tear it up. So, to be clear, I don't quick shift it much anymore, I see more power out of slower shifts since traction control kills all the fun on quick shifting from 1st-2nd. Every single time I hit second, I break traction, light comes on( yes, ALREADY DISABLED) and I lose all boost for 1-2 seconds then it comes back. Again, I shift fast, but not quick like before. I see more consistent boost out of this anyways. One thing I have noticed is that, sometimes at 90-95% throttle, I am feeling more power, not even joking, its weird.
My buddy is rolling around in a black 2019 civic Si sedan and he is seeing 17-18PSI all day long, I am in my 2020 civic Si and seeing 13-14PSI all day long, My car for some reason is still faster than his, and he is setup with some PRL gear for some of the duct work. We both still have stock everything else otherwise, except for the K&N flat panel filter.

Just to be clear, I have not been in a standard in about 8 years prior to this car. So you are absolutely right, this is a learning curve.
 
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Idk if anyone has suggested it yet, but it might be a bad motor mount.

Dude, its funny you said that. My brother just said that this past weekend. I told him it makes sense considering that the reduction on the final drive may torque the mounts a bit harder maybe?
 

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Dude, its funny you said that. My brother just said that this past weekend. I told him it makes sense considering that the reduction on the final drive may torque the mounts a bit harder maybe?
Doesn't seem bad of a speculation. I always thought the stock engine mounts to be a little soft for a sporty car. I don't have the same problem that you're having, but I will say that the 10th gen Si is the most stingy car I've driven to shift from 1st to 2nd at WOT. I can shift all the other gears pretty quick, but 1st to 2nd always takes me twice as long. The car feels reluctant to go into gear, so I've never tried to force it; but it also has never felt like it locked me out.
 
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Doesn't seem bad of a speculation. I always thought the stock engine mounts to be a little soft for a sporty car. I don't have the same problem that you're having, but I will say that the 10th gen Si is the most stingy car I've driven to shift from 1st to 2nd at WOT. I can shift all the other gears pretty quick, but 1st to 2nd always takes me twice as long. The car feels reluctant to go into gear, so I've never tried to force it; but it also has never felt like it locked me out.

Yea, that problem doesn't exist much anymore now that I give it time to go in smoothly. I also try to avoid squawking the tires on second if possible because the traction control never actually turns off which in return causes my car to drop boost and re-spoil up the turbo all over again or at least that's what it sounds/feels like.
 
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Yea, that problem doesn't exist much anymore now that I give it time to go in smoothly. I also try to avoid squawking the tires on second if possible because the traction control never actually turns off which in return causes my car to drop boost and re-spoil up the turbo all over again or at least that's what it sounds/feels like.
Yea, but the thing is, I plan on pushing this car hard. If I blow it up, I blow it up. Ill just have them put another engine in. If the transmission can't hold, then it can't hold. Ill have them put another one in. I also have the 60k mile warranty. I also have the 4 year maintenance plan on top of everything. I didn't buy this car to grandma it around everywhere lol. Saying that, I don't want to just flat out tear it up. So, to be clear, I don't quick shift it much anymore, I see more power out of slower shifts since traction control kills all the fun on quick shifting from 1st-2nd. Every single time I hit second, I break traction, light comes on( yes, ALREADY DISABLED) and I lose all boost for 1-2 seconds then it comes back. Again, I shift fast, but not quick like before. I see more consistent boost out of this anyways. One thing I have noticed is that, sometimes at 90-95% throttle, I am feeling more power, not even joking, its weird.
My buddy is rolling around in a black 2019 civic Si sedan and he is seeing 17-18PSI all day long, I am in my 2020 civic Si and seeing 13-14PSI all day long, My car for some reason is still faster than his, and he is setup with some PRL gear for some of the duct work. We both still have stock everything else otherwise, except for the K&N flat panel filter.

Just to be clear, I have not been in a standard in about 8 years prior to this car. So you are absolutely right, this is a learning curve.
Just as far as the transmission goes, it uses helical cut gears for low noise and synchros that need some time to break-in. If it were straight cut, sequential gearbox, then you could stomp on it harder right out of the box.

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