PRL Motorsports FK8 Civic Type-R High Volume Downpipe

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PRL Motorsports

PRL Motorsports

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Our new downpipe is not shorter than the previous version, the catalyst body and spun-down end cones create an illusion. We have test fitted this downpipe on numerous car and have had no issues with fitment. These are all assembled in precision-fit jigs.
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FK8_JJ

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I installed mine a day ago and it was a perfect fit. I see allot of comments saying it looks shorter but it isn't. I'm happy I waited and got this HF Cat versus the previous one. I did install all the OEM heat shields as I wanted a factory look to it. No check engine lights so far.

PRL Cat.jpg
 

BBTypeR

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I installed mine a day ago and it was a perfect fit. I see allot of comments saying it looks shorter but it isn't. I'm happy I waited and got this HF Cat versus the previous one. I did install all the OEM heat shields as I wanted a factory look to it. No check engine lights so far.

PRL Cat.jpg
Awesome!

Did you have any issues with the studs/nuts off the turbo? Any tips?
 

Los1391

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Awesome!

Did you have any issues with the studs/nuts off the turbo? Any tips?
yea any tips you can tell us would be great @FK8_JJ . Trying to make this install go as smooth as possible lol.
 

FK8_JJ

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Awesome!

Did you have any issues with the studs/nuts off the turbo? Any tips?

Luckily I didn't break anything. My plan was to let the bolts and studs Marinate for 24hrs and than got a little impatient and started it an hour after I sprayed them with PB Blaster. When I would loosen them I would slightly loosen than slightly tighten them. Sometimes they would make noises that would scare me but I would just loosen them slightly instead of going all out. I will say the nuts were the hardest ones to loosen up.
 
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rallyered225

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Luckily I didn't break anything. My plan was to let the bolts and studs Marinate for 24hrs and than got a little impatient and started it an hour after I sprayed them with PB Blaster. When I would loosen them I would slightly loosen than slightly tighten them. Sometimes they would make noises that would scare me but I would just loosen them slightly instead of going all out. I will say the nuts were the hardest ones to loosen up.
I see you took the heat shield off the top. Anything else removed to make life easier?
 

FK8_JJ

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I see you took the heat shield off the top. Anything else removed to make life easier?
The heat shield is only off on the picture to show the HF Cat. It is back on there but it does have to come off in order to get to the bolts and nuts.
 

BBTypeR

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I installed mine a day ago and it was a perfect fit. I see allot of comments saying it looks shorter but it isn't. I'm happy I waited and got this HF Cat versus the previous one. I did install all the OEM heat shields as I wanted a factory look to it. No check engine lights so far.

PRL Cat.jpg
What exhaust do you have and did it change the sound/volume from the stock DP?
 

FK8_JJ

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What exhaust do you have and did it change the sound/volume from the stock DP?
I have the HKS Legamax with the PRL Front pipe. It did become louder especially at the higher RPM Range.
 

Vitamin_R

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Luckily I didn't break anything. My plan was to let the bolts and studs Marinate for 24hrs and than got a little impatient and started it an hour after I sprayed them with PB Blaster. When I would loosen them I would slightly loosen than slightly tighten them. Sometimes they would make noises that would scare me but I would just loosen them slightly instead of going all out. I will say the nuts were the hardest ones to loosen up.
Did you use a large amount of force? What length of wrench?

I'm considering having a shop do mine.
 

Eugene_Fk8

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Did you use a large amount of force? What length of wrench?

I'm considering having a shop do mine.
recommend to use a 1/2" head breaker bar but turn gentle. most of the time soaking it with pb blaster or other penetration fluid for at least an hour is more critical. See so much time the stud break when people just turn the nut without soaking it for good amount of time.
 

FK8_JJ

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recommend to use a 1/2" head breaker bar but turn gentle. most of the time soaking it with pb blaster or other penetration fluid for at least an hour is more critical. See so much time the stud break when people just turn the nut without soaking it for good amount of time.

I'm scared of using a head breaker. Too much torque.
Did you use a large amount of force? What length of wrench?

I'm considering having a shop do mine.

I just used a 1/2 in ratchet. I didn't want to use a big bar where allot of torque would be applied, Just let it soak for an hour and do small pulls on the ratchet. I would let it make a little squeak when loosening it and than tighten it back up a bit. I just applied a small force after each attempt.
 

SpicyPIXEL

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Thanks for all the tips!

What’s the easiest way to replace the OEM studs with Rampage Ti units? That will be the other project I tackle when installing the downpipe
 
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