PRL Motorsports 2017+ Honda Civic Type-R FK8 High Volume Intake System

[AdamD19DFK8]

Just looked at my box while doing an oil change, all but 1 screw are gone that are holding the cover on. Wish I had used thread lock.

@PRL Motorsports could you please tell me the screw sizes that are used for these so I can pick some up?

bUt ThE hArDwArE iS fInE....

Yup loctite and lock washers it is.

Sponsored

 

[Ctr_berg]

Kinda upset about all these hardware issues considering i'm waiting on mine too be delivered.

 

[zcEF]

You are a Godsend! Thank you! Now do I want to go through the trouble of removing the intake box, or just remove the ECU...

@zcEF M5 x 0.80 x 10mm

 

[Patrick Bateman]

You are a Godsend! Thank you! Now do I want to go through the trouble of removing the intake box, or just remove the ECU...

it’s actually pretty easy to remove/install the box without removing the silicone tube. I’d also suggest removing and adding thread locker to the socket head bolts securing the MAF housing while you’re at it.

Just to add a visual to anyone looking for the correct fastener for the plastic side panels. Thread pitch is .8...

 

[Centripetal]

For people still looking for these flange bolts, here is a good reference or place to get them: https://www.mcmaster.com/90909A722
You'll note in the description: "They have a flange that distributes pressure across a wide surface, eliminating the need for a separate washer.".

In PRL's defense, the torque specification should adequately hold those bolts in without need of Loctite. Even thought the calculations tell me its fine, I'm kind of religious when it comes to fasteners. If there is a chance it could back out (or I don't know the torque specification), Loctite. If there is a chance it could seize, anti-seize.

I've only had the intake on for about two weeks and love it so far. The install did remind me how much silicone hoses can irritate me.

 

[VinRRR]

You are a Godsend! Thank you! Now do I want to go through the trouble of removing the intake box, or just remove the ECU...

Once you loosen the clamp at the airbox, it’s very easy to wiggle out the box. I would never loosen the clamp at the turbo inlet because it’s’ a pain close that gap. Make sure you check the 2 bolts holding the metal bracket also to make sure they’re not loose and have fallen off. One of mine fell off.

I just popped open the hood and verified that all bolts are still tight and in place after using Loctite and Phillips bolts with washer. At this point, I feel like Loctite shouldn’t just be recommended but required.

 

[zcEF]

For sure. I've removed the box about 3 times now but I just know it's a pain to realign so everything lines up while installing the box again.

Once you loosen the clamp at the airbox, it’s very easy to wiggle out the box. I would never loosen the clamp at the turbo inlet because it’s’ a pain close that gap. Make sure you check the 2 bolts holding the metal bracket also to make sure they’re not loose and have fallen off. One of mine fell off.

I just popped open the hood and verified that all bolts are still tight and in place after using Loctite and Phillips bolts with washer. At this point, I feel like Loctite shouldn’t just be recommended but required.

 

[Ctr_berg]

Now they changed the date to 1/3/20.

 

[jasonjm]

it’s actually pretty easy to remove/install the box without removing the silicone tube. I’d also suggest removing and adding thread locker to the socket head bolts securing the MAF housing while you’re at it.

Just to add a visual to anyone looking for the correct fastener for the plastic side panels. Thread pitch is .8...

Pic of actual fastener? Or are these same as what’s in box?

 

[Patrick Bateman]

Pic of actual fastener? Or are these same as what’s in box?

Same fastener.

 

[Centripetal]

bUt ThE hArDwArE iS fInE....

Yup loctite and lock washers it is.

If you put a washer in there, you are going to change the joint: another plane to move, different bearing surfaces (friction) and decrease thread engagement.
There a a number of possible causes for self loosening joint/bolt. When the two planes of a joint vibrate/move, self loosening can occur because the surfaces are not perfectly flat. One way to prevent self loosening is by applying the proper preload. Consequently, if the bolt was not tightened with the proper amount of torque, self loosening can occur. Similarly, if there is too much torque applied and part of the joint yields (goes from elastic to plastic...), self loosening can occur.
Bearing surfaces are important because about 50% of the torque applied is lost overcoming friction. If you change the friction, the required torque to apply the proper preload will change.
Thread engagement is important because 40% the torque applied is lost to threads. Consequently, the rule of thumb for thread engagement is 1 to 1.5 diameters of thread engagement. Since the diameter is 5mm and the length is 10mm, you'll need at least half the bolt length threaded.

While one is enough, two is safer. With the proper preload and Loctite, you have a safety factor of two.

 

[jasonjm]

Same fastener.

Sorry meant to say “same as on the air box”, but you figured it out.

 

[Noize]

Came here looking to get a new intake. Way too many fitment and bolts falling out horror stories within. You guys have talked me out of this intake for sure! Stock airbox with k&n drop in she’ll stay.

 

[AdamD19DFK8]

If you put a washer in there, you are going to change the joint: another plane to move, different bearing surfaces (friction) and decrease thread engagement.
There a a number of possible causes for self loosening joint/bolt. When the two planes of a joint vibrate/move, self loosening can occur because the surfaces are not perfectly flat. One way to prevent self loosening is by applying the proper preload. Consequently, if the bolt was not tightened with the proper amount of torque, self loosening can occur. Similarly, if there is too much torque applied and part of the joint yields (goes from elastic to plastic...), self loosening can occur.
Bearing surfaces are important because about 50% of the torque applied is lost overcoming friction. If you change the friction, the required torque to apply the proper preload will change.
Thread engagement is important because 40% the torque applied is lost to threads. Consequently, the rule of thumb for thread engagement is 1 to 1.5 diameters of thread engagement. Since the diameter is 5mm and the length is 10mm, you'll need at least half the bolt length threaded.

While one is enough, two is safer. With the proper preload and Loctite, you have a safety factor of two.

should work. About the only kind that do. Would just need to get a longer bolt to compensate for it's thickness. Gogo bandsaw.

 

[shadow]

Blue thread lock is the simplest solution.

Sponsored