PRL Motorsports 2017+ Honda Civic Type-R FK8 Charge Pipe Upgrade

zcEF

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As I have removed my bumper about 6 or 7 times I decided that I wasn't about that life just for the charge pipe. I removed the driver side fake vent and easily replaced the whole kit without removing the bumper. Gotta say this is one of the easiest mods I've ever done.

Possible to get the to the clamps with the front fake mesh surround taken out - rather than the whole bumper?
Honda Civic 10th gen PRL Motorsports 2017+ Honda Civic Type-R FK8 Charge Pipe Upgrade 20190917_185317
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boosted180sx

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As I have removed my bumper about 6 or 7 times I decided that I wasn't about that life just for the charge pipe. I removed the driver side fake vent and easily replaced the whole kit without removing the bumper. Gotta say this is one of the easiest mods I've ever done.
thank you for confirming. That's exactly what i thought.
 

boosted180sx

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No worries! I was in the same boat as you, but there is so much room behind the vent.]
yeah i saw the picture and thought to myself, that looks like lot of room.

still waiting for a few more reviews before i pull the trigger though. did you notice any difference at all?
 

zcEF

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Not just yet. Last time I installed the HVI from them I got a speeding ticket literally 3 minutes after I finished the install, all for just trying to hear the sound haha. I'm headed to the track on the 29th, I'll let you know if I notice a big difference there . Although it's a while away and I know you'd prefer an answer sooner than that.

yeah i saw the picture and thought to myself, that looks like lot of room.

still waiting for a few more reviews before i pull the trigger though. did you notice any difference at all?
 


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why PRL Motorsports, LLC hi volume intake, titanium inlet, and charge pipes is a killer setup. for those who doubt, here are the data and facts...

ambient air 78f, 3rd gear pull starting at 2,000 rpms up.
  1. relatively flat iat2/maf intake air temp over rpm range (2,000 to red line)...better than stock intake and any other intake tested (data to be published soon), and rate of iat/map air temp dropping since the ic doesn't have to work so hard.
  2. iat2/maf intake temp was 80.6f (only 2.6f over ambient 78f) and finished the pull/log at 84.2f (only 6.4f over ambient 78f)...meant the intake stayed cool entire pull while turbo kicked in quickly for boost.
  3. iat/map temp dropped at a quicker rate (slope) of 3.3f degrees per second (vs. before 1.6f degrees per second rate).
  4. afr is solid and rich through rpm range of data capture.
  5. it took a mere 2 secs to go from 0 psi to 21 psi - fast spooling.
  6. 1.125 secs to go from 21 psi to 27 psi max boost.
  7. stays at max boost for 2.5 secs and taper to 21 at red line...higher boost for longer period than before.
this is why spooling is so fast, hitting rev limiter by accident in 1st and 2nd gear comes quicker than before the prl triple threat install. proof lies in the data, and data doesn't lie...opinions don't matter.

rK4MsHJ7wyu0xONVWObQkbI99kxseQKnoMDv1lpsPpH_wQoztSRonXPECtSBHApi6L8m660yT&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.jpg
o6rqX_AKrSf-tS92tdMyqOHCQRrVhC2kqAfLXVwUnXLCFHIAE603CdN2N0xOk5knUikMlyXPi&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.jpg
 

jasonjm

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why PRL Motorsports, LLC hi volume intake, titanium inlet, and charge pipes is a killer setup. for those who doubt, here are the data and facts...

ambient air 78f, 3rd gear pull starting at 2,000 rpms up.
  1. relatively flat iat2/maf intake air temp over rpm range (2,000 to red line)...better than stock intake and any other intake tested (data to be published soon), and rate of iat/map air temp dropping since the ic doesn't have to work so hard.
  2. iat2/maf intake temp was 80.6f (only 2.6f over ambient 78f) and finished the pull/log at 84.2f (only 6.4f over ambient 78f)...meant the intake stayed cool entire pull while turbo kicked in quickly for boost.
  3. iat/map temp dropped at a quicker rate (slope) of 3.3f degrees per second (vs. before 1.6f degrees per second rate).
  4. afr is solid and rich through rpm range of data capture.
  5. it took a mere 2 secs to go from 0 psi to 21 psi - fast spooling.
  6. 1.125 secs to go from 21 psi to 27 psi max boost.
  7. stays at max boost for 2.5 secs and taper to 21 at red line...higher boost for longer period than before.
this is why spooling is so fast, hitting rev limiter by accident in 1st and 2nd gear comes quicker than before the prl triple threat install. proof lies in the data, and data doesn't lie...opinions don't matter.

rK4MsHJ7wyu0xONVWObQkbI99kxseQKnoMDv1lpsPpH_wQoztSRonXPECtSBHApi6L8m660yT&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.jpg
o6rqX_AKrSf-tS92tdMyqOHCQRrVhC2kqAfLXVwUnXLCFHIAE603CdN2N0xOk5knUikMlyXPi&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.jpg
So these are just the new data right?

Would like to see a comparison to judge for myself the difference, on a car, in a specific environment.

I’m skeptical by nature, and I don’t know if you were driving down hill or hanging out by the bay with a breeze.

logs with t1, no mod
Logs with t2, with mod
On same day, same road, with reasonable ambient range between setups, cool down if need be.

just my 2 cents, don’t give a fuck what you do with it.
 

123sillyboy123

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i have HKS IC and HKS piping.. i wonder if it would be an upgrade if i pair HKS IC with PRL piping kit? or just keep using HKS piping..
 


FK8_K20c1

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going to be installing this soon. are there any tips on installing or is it pretty straight forward?
I will give you a couple of tips. Is not the only way of doing it. Remove the battery, under the battery there is a metallic base(remove it), remove the intake and you will have all the space you need to remove/install the throttle hose and alluminum tube. You can uninstall the intercooler outlet throught the fog light vent and under the car without removing the bumper but that is your call. The other side is cake unless the hose on the turbo sticks to it like it happened to me.
 

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haven't decided if i want to remove the bumper. I do want to fix some gaps that i have but kinda lazy. I may just do it through the fog vents.

I guess removing the battery and its tray isn't too hard. Was hoping i can do it without removing it but space seems pretty limited down there.
 

FK8_K20c1

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haven't decided if i want to remove the bumper. I do want to fix some gaps that i have but kinda lazy. I may just do it through the fog vents.

I guess removing the battery and its tray isn't too hard. Was hoping i can do it without removing it but space seems pretty limited down there.
Its not that hard, Couple 10mm and 12mm bolts.
 

boosted180sx

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same day, same time, same freeway, cruising together with a friend to go eat.

X data - prl intake, prl inter cooler, prl charge pipe, sequence exhaust
red dot data - prl intake, intercooler w/ aluminum charge pipes, catted downpipe, turbo blanket, greddy front pipe + exhaust

I overlayed the WOT data together and this is what i see
Honda Civic 10th gen PRL Motorsports 2017+ Honda Civic Type-R FK8 Charge Pipe Upgrade ycrTdKT


as expected, the IAT2 temperature is basically the same. Makes sense considering we have the same intake and basically driving next to each other.

Honda Civic 10th gen PRL Motorsports 2017+ Honda Civic Type-R FK8 Charge Pipe Upgrade oUTLBrX


but the IAT on the other hand was a different story. The PRL intercooler was basically ~10 degrees cooler throughout the rpm range. Now i can't comment on just how much of an effect aluminum charge pipes has on IATs but PRL gets a thumbs up from me.
 


 


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