PRL intercooler installed

[hpbyhermann]

Been quite a few threads on this but I did a couple of things differently...I used foam sealing tape applied to the bottom side of the aluminum bumper beam to seal to the intercooler so All the air passes through the intercooler core. Used stainless Allen hardware too. One tip to remember is that the left and right air surrounds attach to the bottom ledge of the bumper cover plastic assembly and I recommend leaving the left and right side fog light grills off so you can properly attach them so they can still do their job, funneling air into the intercooler.

 

[GraphiteAZ]

You're worried about foam tape and rubber spill plates, with a front license plate blocking it all?

 

[hpbyhermann]

You're worried about foam tape and rubber spill plates, with a front license plate blocking it all?

Maybe you can't see it properly but the plate is not even close to being in the way. It is mounted higher than the factory to the bumper cover mount and isn't blocking any airflow. The bottom edge of the plate is inline with the top of the lower grill framing, making the best of the front license plates that are required here. I don't feel like being pulled over every week. I'm putting this out there for anyone who wants to maximize airflow through their intercooler. If you don't want the info/idea don't use it.

 

[hpbyhermann]

You're worried about foam tape and rubber spill plates, with a front license plate blocking it all?

To answer your comment, it was hard to see in the previous pictures but the tag is above the last row of the open slots in the lower grill framing. I made a riser out of aluminum to raise the plate up out of the way, leaving the small 3D printed bracket as the lowest point. Let me know what you built for yours if you need to run a plate in your state. I'm anxious to see your solution since I'm sure you built something better....

 

[hpbyhermann]

seems like a lot of work and money for something that really doesn't accomplish much except "look cool"

but hey, its your money

I am a performance car fabricator for a living. What you said is so right. I have no money in it because it was just a scrap piece of aluminum lying around my shop.

 

[Learn2turn]

It seems as though you are blocking more air to the radiator, not ensuring more air through the intercooler, using the foam blockage.

 

[hpbyhermann]

It seems as though you are blocking more air to the radiator, not ensuring more air through the intercooler, using the foam blockage.

This is to force all the lower grill airflow through the intercooler, then the air flows through the radiator. I've done this many times in max effort race/street cars with good success. It seals the 1/2 " gap between the aluminum bumper beam and the top of the intercooler. This area is 2 rows of cooling fins above the opening that the grill provides, effectively creating a pressure plenum forcing airflow through the intercooler core. This just increases the efficiency percentage of the intercooler. This is common practice in the racing world in other brands.

 

[Learn2turn]

Okay, I can agree with your assessment. Good logic sir.
Do you have your own shop? I am from the DMV area and worked at Porsche Pitstop in Alexandria, partnered with AutoThority.

 

[hpbyhermann]

Okay, I can agree with your assessment. Good logic sir.
Do you have your own shop? I am from the DMV area and worked at Porsche Pitstop in Alexandria, partnered with AutoThority.

Thank you and I absolutely do! I own and operate Horsepower By Hermann (HBH) in Beltsville MD. Late model mostly Mustang performance shop. Been in business since 1993. I do mostly forced inducted Mustang builds and tons of calibration and dyno testing. (I have a Dynojet)

 

[Patrick Bateman]

Seems odd you wouldn’t use flat head bolts on the bottom, lower the plate enough to cover them and tap the holes on top so you don’t have nuts on the exterior. Seems poorly thought out.

 

[hpbyhermann]

Seems odd you wouldn’t use flat head bolts on the bottom, lower the plate enough to cover them and tap the holes on top so you don’t have nuts on the exterior. Seems poorly thought out.

if you did it as you suggested with flat headed bolts then the plate would still be too low, covering up the top row of the grill opening. That would accomplish absolutely nothing. The reason I used stud nuts that attach from the backside of the plate and sit absolutely flush with the riser plate is so there wouldn't be bolt threads hitting and marring my bumper, like they would have if I would have used used your idea. Your absolutely incorrect assumptions are baseless when you haven't seen the backside clearance. The riser plate wasn't tapped because 2-3 rows of thread In relatively thin aluminum are not adequate to hold a licence plate on. So to summarize, your thoughts and many others were considered early in the design process but weren't used because they simply wouldn't work due to the issues said above. Maybe if you asked a question about why someone did something a certain way instead of deciding that something "seems to be poorly thought out" you might actually have learned something. In closing your "idea" would have accomplished nothing for airflow, and you would have bolt and thread impressions on your bumper cover before your licence plate fell off on the highway somewhere because the lack of threads in the plate. I've prototyped and tested and made changes before actual production on quite a few parts over the years for major companies and I can assure you that there is always many revisions on every part before and after any part is released. Don't be so quick to judge until you know ALL the facts Remember, the whole reason for the riser plate was to raise the plate up higher to give the intercooler access to as much airflow as the grill opening would allow. All of this is because I didn't want to drill a licence plate mount into my bumper cover and I also wanted the ability to remove the tag from time to time.

 

[Patrick Bateman]

if you did it as you suggested with flat headed bolts then the plate would still be too low, covering up the top row of the grill opening. That would accomplish absolutely nothing. The reason I used stud nuts that attach from the backside of the plate and sit absolutely flush with the riser plate is so there wouldn't be bolt threads hitting and marring my bumper, like they would have if I would have used used your idea. Your absolutely incorrect assumptions are baseless when you haven't seen the backside clearance. The riser plate wasn't tapped because 2-3 rows of thread In relatively thin aluminum are not adequate to hold a licence plate on. So to summarize, your thoughts and many others were considered early in the design process but weren't used because they simply wouldn't work due to the issues said above. Maybe if you asked a question about why someone did something a certain way instead of deciding that something "seems to be poorly thought out" you might actually have learned something. In closing your "idea" would have accomplished nothing for airflow, and you would have bolt and thread impressions on your bumper cover before your licence plate fell off on the highway somewhere because the lack of threads in the plate. I've prototyped and tested and made changes before actual production on quite a few parts over the years for major companies and I can assure you that there is always many revisions on every part before and after any part is released. Don't be so quick to judge until you know ALL the facts Remember, the whole reason for the riser plate was to raise the plate up higher to give the intercooler access to as much airflow as the grill opening would allow. All of this is because I didn't want to drill a licence plate mount into my bumper cover and I also wanted the ability to remove the tag from time to time.

Yeah, not gonna read all that. Whatever you’re happy with, bud.

 

[hpbyhermann]

Yeah, not gonna read all that. I’ll stick with my previous post.

You are beyond arrogant.....it's not for someone like you that knows everything. Enjoy your day!

 

[CDNTyper]

Looks great, and does work. Temps will show the result. Regardless, anything helps. I wish I could get my hands on one of those plates you made.

On another note, what did you see/notice after the prl intercooler was installed? I’m ordering one soon. Quicker spool? Slight lag? Obviously temps have been reduced? These look so nice out front compared to the thin core oem.

 

[hpbyhermann]

Looks great, and does work. Temps will show the result. Regardless, anything helps. I wish I could get my hands on one of those plates you made.

On another note, what did you see/notice after the prl intercooler was installed? I’m ordering one soon. Quicker spool? Slight lag? Obviously temps have been reduced? These look so nice out front compared to the thin core oem.

I only got to get one drive with the intercooler and other exhaust mods while still having the factory tune in it but to be honest there was actually more of a gain than I thought I would have gotten. There was no loss of response and the mid range and upper end power was easily noticeable! Pulled hard for sure. With my adjusted Hondata calibration it is DEFINITELY everything I hoped it would be!

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