PRL Flex Fuel Kit & KTuner Disables... Readiness?

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IronFusion

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I can't seem to get the evap system in ready status. I reviewed the disables needed for the flex fuel kit, and they all have to do with O2.
I've driven around 400mi of mixed driving since I first took the car to be inspected and was told I have 30 days to get a re-inspection.
I've tried to follow the drive cycle guidance the best I can. I don't have any 55mph roads in my immediate area I can get to shortly after the idling component of the test.
I really feel stuck here. Further, I'm foreseeing a visit to a dealership, which I hate doing. I'm sure they will see my pipes and flex fuel kit and try to record some bs excuse to not cover an evaluation and (maybe) repair under warranty.
Has anyone else ever had a difficult time getting their evap system monitor to enter ready status?
 

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So which system isn’t ready or set readiness?

my bad, evap. Is your car completely stock? Anything removed or performance upgraded other than the flex fuel kit?
 
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REBELXSi

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You can indeed check for errors and OBD status with the KTuner software.

The only advice we can give related to emissions is to flash to factory.
Can you do that if you're running a race MAF housing or catless DP?
 

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I assume youre asking about flashing to stock and answer is yes you can do it. But you should not, thats not how it works.

Flash back to stock only on stock hardware.
 


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So which system isn’t ready or set readiness?

my bad, evap. Is your car completely stock? Anything removed or performance upgraded other than the flex fuel kit?

Down and mid pipes. I'm not sure why a tune would impact the evap system, but I guess it is possible higher ethanol content may cause more vapors in the tank. I did more driving yesterday, and filled with e10 93-octane. I'm now down to ~20% ethanol content. My plan is to do a few more driving sessions, and get the ethanol content down to e10. If I still see no ready status for the evap system, I will flash to a modified stock tune that has the disables needed for compatibility with my pipes and the flex fuel kit. If, after that, I cannot arrive at a ready status, I guess I will need to take the car to a dealership for a warranty diagnosis. I hate dealing with the dealership.

Here is the crazy drive cycle guide I've seen:
https://www.smogtips.com/smog-question/3003/honda-civic-monitors-not-ready

I'm also somewhat afraid that the ECT2 that is unplugged to use the flex fuel kit may be involved in a threshold temperature reading that the ECU uses to engage the evap monitoring test(s). That would suck. I'm going to be seriously unhappy if I need to revert to stock pipes or fueling. Hoping @PRL Motorsports can allay these fears.
 

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That last comment about flex kit and ect2 could be it. Why not unplug flex kit electrically only (but leaving it in the car) then flash back to stock (taking dp off) to get readiness to set. Then revert after done.
 
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That last comment about flex kit and ect2 could be it. Why not unplug flex kit electrically only (but leaving it in the car) then flash back to stock (taking dp off) to get readiness to set. Then revert after done.

I really hope it is not the key. That plug is a hard reach from up-top, and (IIRC) requires the shroud to be removed to reach. If I have to do that every year (annual inspection), I am inclined to remove the flex fuel kit with a vengeance and toss/sell it. Kind of hoping @PRL Motorsports can, again, inject some knowledge. I'm flying blind and panicking here.
 
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...That plug is a hard reach from up-top, and (IIRC) requires the shroud to be removed to reach...
Just had a thought for if this is the case... I may get a long pigtail and wire a dual in-line fuse holder, and wire the ECT2 and the Flex Fuel plugs in parallel, then I would just selectively pull the respective fuse to swap the active plug over. But.... that is really frivolous if unnecessary.... knock-knock PRL
 

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plug the ect 2 back in and flash a non flex fuel tune if you don't feel like reinstalling the stock downpipe and see if that will do it.
 


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Just had a thought for if this is the case... I may get a long pigtail and wire a dual in-line fuse holder, and wire the ECT2 and the Flex Fuel plugs in parallel, then I would just selectively pull the respective fuse to swap the active plug over. But.... that is really frivolous if unnecessary.... knock-knock PRL
If you are looking for assistance from PRL I would recommend contacting them via their official support channels. Unfortunately I don't think posting the text "knock-knock PRL" on a public forum will be particularly useful.
 
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@IronFusion, great idea if thats the case w the piggytail. So now hope it isnt the dp..?

Nah- not the DP. Unless there is an underlying requirement for non-ECT2 Disables for flex fuel compatibility I am allowed a single not-ready in PA, which I use for disabling P0420 (cat efficiency on O2). I've passed inspection twice with the DP and the single disable.
 

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I really hope it is not the key. That plug is a hard reach from up-top, and (IIRC) requires the shroud to be removed to reach. If I have to do that every year (annual inspection), I am inclined to remove the flex fuel kit with a vengeance and toss/sell it. Kind of hoping @PRL Motorsports can, again, inject some knowledge. I'm flying blind and panicking here.
If you don't have easily removable vents its still quite easy if you just go from underneath. If you don't want to take off the bumper if your car has the fog light little plastic flaps from underneath. You can just put your hands through there.
 
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I reached out to PRL and they said trying to nail down a drive cycle or two with the ECT2 plugged back in isn't a bad idea. Not a confirmation that having the flex fuel kit fully installed and active will assuredly prevent evap system monitors from self testing...

@KTuner - do you know if the coolant readings that are triggering thresholds for the self-testing involve ECT2?
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