Prevent engine bay heat

[123sillyboy123]

I bought it in Amazon, is more like a sheet and yes this change I would say dramatically the Iat2 and Iat temperatures. I tested during low speed periods and long term idle periods it stays low for more time . Eventually if you left the car idle for 30 minutes the temperature raise up anyway.

could not find it. all i found is DEI gold tape and bunch of cheap knock off tape. yours look decent. mind to share the link?
also, do you just wrap the bottom of the intake air box but not the whole thing?
I have PRL high flow intake on delivery, and also HKS fmic kit, I am thinking to do some serious heat treatment before installing them.

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[123sillyboy123]

Entire Airbox, and the cold side intake piping should be gold wrapped. I thermal coated every pipe and heat shield. I'll hold 27 psi at over 100 degrees in Phoenix.

Thanks for the input. what do you mean by thermal coating them? do you mean ceramic coat??
I did ceramic coat my downpipe and front pipe, plus added DEI titanium wrap on it.

but not so sure if ceramic coat is the way to go for non heat generating source such as inlet pipe and intercooler charge pipe... these two areas dont generate heat but indeed affected by external heat.
what kind of coating you put on those pipe?
Thank you for sharing

 

[turbociv910]

Dei titanium wrap is trap heat from within... which i used it for downpipe and part of the front pipe. It helps shield the heat from getting out of the exhaust pipes and hence keep engine bay temp lower.

Dei gold tape is reflective tape that reflect the heat from getting in. Which I heard people use it on IC charge pipe, intake and inlet intake pipe. Those areas dont generate heat itself so the idea is to block as much heat can get it as possible.

Youre right with all that for sure.. wrapping the turbine and downpipe the best thing you can do to manage heat.. im just saying the heat generated by the hot air inside the pipe(125-150 deg on some cars) will be retained more than a non wrapped pipe. The pipe will cool off to the touch faster without than with i guess. Thermal reduction of fiber glass/heat wrap isnt really meant to keep out an extra 20-30 degrees of heat, its meant for 1200-1500 deg applications. like i said, i could be wrong.

Last I checked this was the type r threads..why is it all the si's having all the "in the know"
As for the heat management the the current platform lacks airflow to the radiator and the vents hood, fenders don't get the heat out as much as you think..

You cant argue with physics bro.

You will be pleased to find out that cars direct the heat down under the car and to the wheel wells, not through the fenders and hood.. guess youre not "in the know" either.

 

[GeezR]

Newbie here, probably asked and answered, but if so, I can't find it: do the 2019 R's have more engine bay venting? I have read complaints on this over-heating issue that point out that some of the "vents" are just solid plastic "bling" pieces and serve no function (other than adding "bling"). But my newly purchased '19 has functional vents where others have described theirs as having solid plastic inserts. In other words, after 3 years of problems with engine heat-soak, has Honda initiated some improvements? For instance, my side "gills" are open, ditto a portion of the blackout plastic on passenger side bumper (holding the fog light). Has adding Water Wetter helped anyone? It is mentioned in other posts on this issue, but no particular results are claimed.

 

[seselectronics]

could not find it. all i found is DEI gold tape and bunch of cheap knock off tape. yours look decent. mind to share the link?
also, do you just wrap the bottom of the intake air box but not the whole thing?
I have PRL high flow intake on delivery, and also HKS fmic kit, I am thinking to do some serious heat treatment before installing them.

Sure!, I would definitely wrap all before install, the intercooler don't need to do anything but I would do the charge pipes and the whole intake.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E243AW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[rajahdat]

Youre right with all that for sure.. wrapping the turbine and downpipe the best thing you can do to manage heat.. im just saying the heat generated by the hot air inside the pipe(125-150 deg on some cars) will be retained more than a non wrapped pipe. The pipe will cool off to the touch faster without than with i guess. Thermal reduction of fiber glass/heat wrap isnt really meant to keep out an extra 20-30 degrees of heat, its meant for 1200-1500 deg applications. like i said, i could be wrong.


You cant argue with physics bro.

You will be pleased to find out that cars direct the heat down under the car and to the wheel wells, not through the fenders and hood.. guess youre not "in the know" either.

bring your type r out then.. I'm an engineer coming from "backyard special" reasoning from yourself I'd love to see the underglow you wired up to your Si

Thanks for the input. what do you mean by thermal coating them? do you mean ceramic coat??
I did ceramic coat my downpipe and front pipe, plus added DEI titanium wrap on it.

but not so sure if ceramic coat is the way to go for non heat generating source such as inlet pipe and intercooler charge pipe... these two areas dont generate heat but indeed affected by external heat.
what kind of coating you put on those pipe?
Thank you for sharing

Ceramic coating, thermal coating, etc. Every company has its claims. Cerakote is normally what I found easily available for the normal consumer. I have friends that own high-performance shops in Arizona so I just use whoever they go to for "thermal coating." The coating I used is the same on my Mishimoto piping. I don't just coat the outside of the piping but also the inside of the piping. It's well known by track guys our engine bay will run hot and that IAT sensor on the cold side of the intercooler will be affected by heat coming from other components. Most will just get a vented hood or a better air flowing grill. Pic is my EVS tuning grill

The fiberglass wrap everyone does I always shake my head, in time the wrap will need to be replaced and the manifold or piping wrapped should be checked for cracking. I will hear someone chime in and say but it should last, nope racecars go under a more vigorous preventive maintenance checks. On the same breath if an oil leak was to appear while daily driving it might just get on the wrap and catch on fire.

 

[turbociv910]

bring your type r out then.. I'm an engineer coming from "backyard special" reasoning from yourself I'd love to see the underglow you wired up to your Si

I dont have a Type R, I have a civic SI, per signature.

You're a bad engineer then, i said twice to change my mind with data, i dont have it, yet you think capturing data is "back yard". I should tell your boss.

Im a process developer that works in heat transfer and deflection for a glass company that works with nasa and vicariously space x..thats why i jumped in this thread.

You have such a large ego, which is quite amusing, you over heating ctr owner you.

 

[jasonjm]

Last I checked this was the type r threads..why is it all the si's having all the "in the know"
As for the heat management the the current platform lacks airflow to the radiator and the vents hood, fenders don't get the heat out as much as you think..

I still chime in to the z06 and mkiv forums and I no longer have both those cars.

And your coming off like a dick.

 

[123sillyboy123]

Newbie here, probably asked and answered, but if so, I can't find it: do the 2019 R's have more engine bay venting? I have read complaints on this over-heating issue that point out that some of the "vents" are just solid plastic "bling" pieces and serve no function (other than adding "bling"). But my newly purchased '19 has functional vents where others have described theirs as having solid plastic inserts. In other words, after 3 years of problems with engine heat-soak, has Honda initiated some improvements? For instance, my side "gills" are open, ditto a portion of the blackout plastic on passenger side bumper (holding the fog light). Has adding Water Wetter helped anyone? It is mentioned in other posts on this issue, but no particular results are claimed.

All the vent and hood scoop are same since 2017.
The fake one is the bumper covers front and back.

 

[rajahdat]

I still chime in to the z06 and mkiv forums and I no longer have both those cars.

And your coming off like a dick.

got something to say than what the op wanted, didnt think so. Stick to the topic of overheating

 

[rajahdat]

I dont have a Type R, I have a civic SI, per signature.

You're a bad engineer then, i said twice to change my mind with data, i dont have it, yet you think capturing data is "back yard". I should tell your boss.

Im a process developer that works in heat transfer and deflection for a glass company that works with nasa and vicariously space x..thats why i jumped in this thread.

You have such a large ego, which is quite amusing, you over heating ctr owner you.

Did we just bring out credentials... OMG, I am so impressed you are a processing developer. How about you take your engineering and actually do some work instead of making peanuts and being a keyboard commando. ‍ by your list of cars past and present seems like your a engineering helper

 

[hicompb18c1]

anyone is welcome to post air temp data before and after to change my mind though...

This ^
Has anyone been able to see IAT drop, or any other way of confirming improvement in performance from the heat wrapping?

 

[seselectronics]

This ^
Has anyone been able to see IAT drop, or any other way of confirming improvement in performance from the heat wrapping?

I have a lot of data , unfortunately my telemetry files are gone (virus on my computer) the only I could keep was my screen IAT and IAT 2 temperatures captures , was saved in my cloud, but course i can prove nothing with that because doesn't show outside temperature humidity and how long run the engine, or how long was stopped , etc. the mayor problem without the heat wrap occur when you drive hard , the ambient temperature is too high (around 90 degrees) and you left the car on idle for let say 10-15 minutes , and then you drive on slow traffic. If you drive normal and you are driving on the highway the temperatures are normal mostly time. Soon as you get more than 75 degree on the intake the ECU start to pulling ignition time and pulling boost to prevent knock. with all my cooling mods , heat wraps I usually have 100 -105 degrees driving normal and hard driving with 90 degrees ambient temperatures. if I do slow traffic I usually have 115-125 degrees. If I start the engine from could start and left the engine idle for 30 minutes with 90 degrees ambient temperatures IAT2 reach around 155 degrees and IAT 145 degrees.


Before all the mods I usually get IAT2 175 degrees and IAT 160 degrees ( car idle from could start for 30 minutes 90 degrees ambient temperature )


The other advantage after the wrap is if you get high temperature while you are in slow traffic soon as you move the car at low speed the temperature go down faster.

 

[jasonjm]

got something to say than what the op wanted, didnt think so. Stick to the topic of overheating

Nah, dick.

 

[Charlie]

Nah, dick.

Nah, dick.

I wanted to do it and started by doing some research. Found lots of positive videos but after seeing this video i decided not to do it. The video may help people decide. Hope it helps -

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