Polk 8 inch subwoofer not making any bass... vibrates like a dying sex toy

PandaXpress

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Weird do you have pictures of how you wired it and the connections are solid?
So the bass is sounds worst than the stock sub still?
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dirtrider216

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Weird do you have pictures of how you wired it and the connections are solid?
So the bass is sounds worst than the stock sub still?
Didnt get pictures, my only concern would be that the sub used spade connectors for the wiring but I am confident in that aspect of it. I suppose yes it is worse than the stock because I just cant tell if it is actually working or not.
 

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If the wiring is good it might just be the sub, do you have a multimeter to check the voice coils to see if they are still good? You might of trashed it when you installed it with only wiring one voice coil

Didnt get pictures, my only concern would be that the sub used spade connectors for the wiring but I am confident in that aspect of it. I suppose yes it is worse than the stock because I just cant tell if it is actually working or not.
 

integra15

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You say stock system? It wont matter how you wire it because it will never sound good. A replacement sub needs an dedicated amp.

If you want it to actually sound good you need a properly sized box and a tuned signal
 


Mikex18

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It needs a amp. I did it with a pioneer 8" and without the amo it was varely playing
 
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dirtrider216

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It needs a amp. I did it with a pioneer 8" and without the amo it was varely playing
I can add an amp with just a lc2i wired in before it, right?
 
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dirtrider216

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what are you using with the LC2i right now?

or is that the other item you will be installing?
that’s what I’m going to install. Havent looked into amps too much yet but I’m thinking I may try skar audio
 

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I ran my own amp and used the stock sub and got some actual bass from it. The factory amp is definitely the problem.
 


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I see you have a hatchback

I have an FK8 and recently did a sub upgrade in the OEM enclosure. I used an 8 inch kicker DVC.

First off I am pretty sure our amp sends a 4 ohm signal to our subs. You will want to make sure it is wired in 4 ohms. You-can- wire it in 2 ohms for a bit more "punch" but it will eventually do one of two things (if not both) Clip your sub and blow it, or blow the amp. Our factory am DOES have a protect mode though... so that is nice.

Second... our OEM enclosure is garbage, but there are a few things you can do (as I did) First I used double sided tape to seal up the enclosure along where the sub is mounted. This made it a TON better. if -any- are is escaping from your sub enclosure it will rattle and provide NO bass. (This happened to me)

Third... I used Dynamat on the backing of the OEM enclosure, however, it still rattled a lot, I then used Dynamat on the rear quarter panel. This solved my problem and made the bass "punch" more.

Fourth... the bass still was only marginal over the factory amp and I installed a 600 RMS Alpine amp. This solved -everything- and the bass really hits hard for a tiny little 8 inch Kicker sub wired in 4 ohms (330 RMS configuration for the amp)
 

Iceyankee-Tsi

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OP:

I'm afraid to share that like many others have mentioned, you will need and aftermarket amp to power your sub. I would dare to say that even with the current Honda stock amp crappy configuration, the stock sub may had done a decent job with a separate dedicated amp. An Audiocontrol LC2i will work with the aftermarket amp. I went a slightly different route (for stealth purposes) and used an Audiocontrol ACM-1.300. Its a small amp with incorporated LC2i features and paired it to an MB Quart DS1-204 Sub installed in the stock box . I made a custom bracket and (believe it or not), I was able to fit it all in the location of the sub box. Other than the sub fuse near the battery area(just because I opted to make it visible), everything looks stock and definetly meets my performance expectations. Bottomline is, if you want decent bass from that sub, you need a separate amp.
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