PLEASE HELP POSSIBLE HEADGASKET

[bbeem]

The busa studs are a bit long so the washers or spacers are used otherwise the nut would run off the bottom of the thread. There's a ton of thread so the thickness of the washers or spacers really isn't critical. I turned them .500 for the nut the be right in the center of the threads. You could go more or less, the minimum would be 2 washers. I'd do 3 if I was stacking. Yes 4 would be about .500 and similar to the spacers. It's not rocket science.

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[kshawn]

I've been running the Hayabusa studs with an extra washer for over 35k now. So far so good.

 

[CAPTS]

she's running healthy up till now
Bite the bullet & do it !

 

[hobby-man]

she's running healthy up till now
Bite the bullet & do it !

Can't remember if I asked before, did you install block guard / closed deck mod?

 

[CAPTS]

Can't remember if I asked before, did you install block guard / closed deck mod?

yes you did & you can see it on earlier post.
while the head is out maybe can consider this ?

 

[NicKoLi]

Guys, my heart is broken =( it was the head gasket and I even had an appointment to get it done but before that I decided to drive fast and blew a connecting rod through my motor. Please be nice, No need to beat me up it was a foolish mistake that was my fault. I was considering the built block from tsp. What else would I need? I already have arp studs and the headgasket kit. I was told to do the belt tensioner while doing that anyway. A friend told me the motor swap was doable should I have it done professionally or do you think a few guys with more experience then me could get it done ? I need all the direction and advice I can get now =( Anybody maybe in the New england area could help me out somehow? Thanks for any input.

 

[hobby-man]

Sucks, sorry to hear that. TSP block is your best bet. You could supply your original crank to reduce build time and save some money. Hopefully it's in good shape. At this point you should have the head professionally inspected and make sure it doesn't have cracks or need to be machined also.

Oil pump gears and valve springs/keepers are good things to throw in while you're at it but not a necessity.

 

[Quip]

Guys, my heart is broken =( it was the head gasket and I even had an appointment to get it done but before that I decided to drive fast and blew a connecting rod through my motor. Please be nice, No need to beat me up it was a foolish mistake that was my fault. I was considering the built block from tsp. What else would I need? I already have arp studs and the headgasket kit. I was told to do the belt tensioner while doing that anyway. A friend told me the motor swap was doable should I have it done professionally or do you think a few guys with more experience then me could get it done ? I need all the direction and advice I can get now =( Anybody maybe in the New england area could help me out somehow? Thanks for any input.

Advice: don’t drive like a tool if you’re car isn’t running right. And before your appointment? C’mon man.

 

[bbeem]

It's a bummer but nothing a few k won't fix. Stressful now but I'm sure you'll enjoy the TSP block. Did you look into junkyard motor out of curiosity?

So my question, how many seconds of WOT before experiencing misfires or sputtering? How many times did you go WOT on it over the [6?] weeks? What happened her final run? We're you throwing any CEL? Really appreciate the insight. Build it better and keep on...

Im asking details because I've blown 2 head gaskets myself. The 2nd time I knew the problem instantly and babied it till I fixed it the next week. The first time though, I continued to WOT to recreate and diagnosis. Like probably 20 times! When I got to higher rpm like above 4.5 or 5k I would misfire. Hold it long enough and it would misfire enough to throw CEL with p304 missfire, which I did twice. I didn't know bad head gasket could lead to failed rod.

 

[Jes_si562]

Update ?

 

[NicKoLi]

Advice: don’t drive like a tool if you’re car isn’t running right. And before your appointment? C’mon man.

thanks for telling me what I already know and feel bad about. Im a grown man I made some mistakes and I am now literally paying for them. Dont be a dick. This is the first car I worked on, I did all the advised tests and they all came back clean with no headgasket issues. The car was running mint and even seem to stop losing coolant. It was an honest mistake.

 

[NicKoLi]

It's a bummer but nothing a few k won't fix. Stressful now but I'm sure you'll enjoy the TSP block. Did you look into junkyard motor out of curiosity?

So my question, how many seconds of WOT before experiencing misfires or sputtering? How many times did you go WOT on it over the [6?] weeks? What happened her final run? We're you throwing any CEL? Really appreciate the insight. Build it better and keep on...

Im asking details because I've blown 2 head gaskets myself. The 2nd time I knew the problem instantly and babied it till I fixed it the next week. The first time though, I continued to WOT to recreate and diagnosis. Like probably 20 times! When I got to higher rpm like above 4.5 or 5k I would misfire. Hold it long enough and it would misfire enough to throw CEL with p304 missfire, which I did twice. I didn't know bad head gasket could lead to failed rod.

I had similar issues as you. I used a few rounds of fuel system cleaner and it cleared up the sputtering. In my case it was the injectors and the head gasket.

 

[NicKoLi]

Im now looking at a used stock motor while upgrading the rods pistons and head studs. It seems like a cost efficient way to do what I'm trying to do. Does anyone else have experience with pushing the motor past 350whp? I know kshawn knows a ton and I'm waiting to talk to him, but I'm just throwing it out there. I was going to upgrade the internals and then maybe try to piece together a fuel upgrade kit and see if I can get it to be stable running full e85.

 

[bbeem]

The first time I fixed with OEM gasket and head bolts and it held for another 11 months, same as the first. The second time with cometic gasket and ARP studs and has been holding for 7 months and I think will continue to hold with current set up. Went 5lbs over on the torque spec. If ARP said 65 ft lbs I went 70' lb I think it was.

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