PIDs for Torque/Torque Pro?

kalvin126

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Did you ever solve this problem (the Boost gauge in Torque being inaccurate)? I saw in post #56 where you implied that the solution lies in a big list of PIDs in a different thread. I can’t see a supported PID in that list that refers to boost pressure. Does the MAP sensor effectively measure boost pressure? That one is in the supported list of standard PIDs:
  • 1 - 1,0B,1,"Intake manifold absolute pressure",0,255,"kPa (absolute)",A
The default Vacuum/Boost gauge in Torque seems to show something on my Civic (EU spec 1.5T with the CVT), but it's totally out of whack with reality. E.g. With the engine not running, it shows a healthy vacuum. Hence I am searching for an alternative PID that correctly shows boost pressure.

@ radekr - in Post #61, I see you have a boost gauge. Can you provide the PID and formula?

@ das borgen - in Post #39, I see you have an EGT gauge. Can you provide the PID and formula?
I see odd numbers as well. I feel its the recirculation system that Honda put in place that skew the number from OBD standpoint



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Myx

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I've had mine stuck at 113F. I kinda gave up trying to figure it out.
I am stuck with 113F constantly showing as well. Annoying as I want to do some tests on intake temperatures from different types of intakes.
 

xRiCeBoYx

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It's weird, bc with KTuner, it'll read out actual IATs. With the BAXS and Torque Pro, nothing but 113F. I think I mentioned on the thread I posted up about it that I just gave up on it.
 
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Maximum6

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I hope I can post here,

I’m thinking it may just be easier to get the Blue tooth dongle from veepeak (draws less power), and connect it to your own phone (I have an iPhone 8plus), have the phone hooked up to the Proclip USA / Kuda Mount , and use Dash Command.

Wondering if anybody just use dash command on their type R and run into issues?
 

Zeffenn

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Bump.

Hoping someone has the correct info on how to get the vac/boost gauge working correctly?
 

Boosted1one

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I hope I can post here,

I’m thinking it may just be easier to get the Blue tooth dongle from veepeak (draws less power), and connect it to your own phone (I have an iPhone 8plus), have the phone hooked up to the Proclip USA / Kuda Mount , and use Dash Command.

Wondering if anybody just use dash command on their type R and run into issues?
Of course you can post here! Welcome!

Hey how do you like dash command?

Im using torque pro, and wonder if you've used both and can offer any comparison. T

I'm going to go search the proclip thing.

Honestly, I don't even use torque on the HU anymore.. a dedicated phone (I have an extra S7 edge) like how you're running it is probably what I'll do.

Have you had any issues running BT on that Veepeak? The one I got from them had a lot of errors and lag ...maybe it was just a bad one.

Thanks!
 

Boosted1one

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What does it measure? Or at what "point in flow" may be more appropriate.

This is a snapshot I've got from some other thread. They seem to work for me although I don't have another way to verify.. the ECT though I have a feeling isnt accurate but the IAT1 and IAT2 "seem" to work.

2EA7D6E0-7AFA-4069-B6B5-1FD56B4297A4.png
 

SCOPESYS

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I see ECT -- PID: 01 05
and "Maybe" ECT -- PID: 01 67 ???


I believe the "R" has an Oil temperature PID: 01 5C, but since the SI does not, I cannot confirm that PID
 
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REBELXSi

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I feel like I had engine coolant on torque and now I don't see it. Any help? @SCOPESYS
 

Boosted1one

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Anyone have an idea why my cold IAT is stuck on 37.4 even after restarting the car and deleting the PID over and over again?
I've had mine stuck at 113F. I kinda gave up trying to figure it out.
For anyone with gauges frozen or stuck, or other wonky issues.

I recently read that it's due to a faulty OBD2 adaptors.

There's a direct correlation between price and quality. It's already a gamble with most of what's available in the market.

But you can increase your chances by taking a peek inside.

I messed up by ordering a "Mini" as those are most if not all barely functioning, or weird connection issues. They all do not use the PIC18F25K80 chip which apparently is the official ELM327 chipset.

The next *clone*I ordered for a friend. but this time, opened it up and examined the chips, cleaned up the board (factory gunk, metal particles, etc) and secured the joints and board to the case so it wasn't all cheap sounding and easy to fall apart.

It passed the elm testing app on Android as legit.

When I hooked it up to torque and ran the connection test, it was at the top of the list! It passed OBDlink and the other expensive adaptors!

Compared to my Mini clone which comes up at the bottom of the list.
 
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REBELXSi

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For anyone with gauges frozen or stuck, or other wonky issues.

I recently read that it's due to a faulty OBD2 adaptors.

There's a direct correlation between price and quality. It's already a gamble with most of what's available in the market.

But you can increase your chances by taking a peek inside.

I messed up by ordering a "Mini" as those are most if not all barely functioning, or weird connection issues. They all do not use the PIC18F25K80 chip which apparently is the official ELM327 chipset.

The next *clone*I ordered for a friend. but this time, opened it up and examined the chips, cleaned up the board (factory gunk, metal particles, etc) and secured the joints and board to the case so it wasn't all cheap sounding and easy to fall apart.

It passed the elm testing app on Android as legit.

When I hooked it up to torque and ran the connection test, it was at the top of the list! It passed OBDlink and the other expensive adaptors!

Compared to my Mini clone which comes up at the bottom of the list.
Got any recommendations for a good adapter that isn't expensive?
 

Boosted1one

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It's always a gamble with these. First couple batches can be good, then the rest bad. Doesn't help that good clones and bad clones all use the same 3-4 generic outer shell. The innards can be completely different.

With that said, the one I got my friend is the KINGBOLEN red wifi version on Amazon. Clip the coupon for a total of about 10 bucks.

Carefully open her up and then compare with the pics below to see if it's good. This is also a good time to clean it up, look for any gunk you can carefully scrape off, loose metal particles, etc. Then rinse it with some 91-99% Isopropyl alcohol. (Amazon has 99% IPA which will work fine.) and dry with compressed air if you can

During inspection, if you notice really bad solder joints, shorted joints, fragile joints. Then chance of future failure extemely high. Tbh, the boards are sloppy as it is. most have minimalists solder on there to barely make a connection. But we do get what we pay for here.. * China gets alot of heat, but there is a demand..and they got stomachs to feed.

I suspect weve been running into all these issues because it seems most, if not all opted for the mini models due to clearance issues..

I havent verified if the KINGBOLEN will clear our cars... although I believe it will. The end can always be chopped off about 1/4 since the chip don't go that far.


For comparasion: my mini *works* but with the app it intermittently fails in sending the most basic commands.

**Sorry for the bad pictures, they were just reference shots, with no initial intention of posting them.** Last photo from some CVT forum

Resources and recommended reading:
http://www.carscanner.info/choosing-obdii-adapter/

http://cvtz50.info/en/elm327/#wheretobuy (if you only read one, read this one)

https://www.elmelectronics.com/help/obd/links/



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