Photos of Touring Amp

[2016TouringSLC]

 

[Superthermal]

Thanks for posting the wiring diagram. I printed this out last night to help me get my High Level Inputs to my amps without needing to pull from each speaker location. Thanks a Ton.

 

[2016TouringSLC]

I printed this out last night to help me get my High Level Inputs to my amps without needing to pull from each speaker location. Thanks a Ton.

You're welcome. Let me know how it goes as I'm intending to do the same thing when I get some time. The amp has a digital input (the round connector on the right side), but I understand that is for all audio other than for the radio and USB connectors, meaning the voice warnings, navigation, Siri, etc. I'm really hoping we can use these high-level outputs to run to a separate processor and amp.

 

[josby]

My understanding of it is the opposite. The service manual says:

The stereo amplifier is a separated power amplifier interface. Digital audio signal (SPDIF2) that is received from the audio unit is
processed on the DSP, and sent to each speaker after amplified by the AMP IC.

The stereo amplifier communicates with the audio unit using the dedicated serial bus (RS485). This communication includes the
vehicle speed (for SVC) information, audio settings, and the MUTE commands. The stereo amplifier adjusts the speaker outputs by
oneself which is based on the received information.

The stereo amplifier receives the guidance signal and the system beep signal via independent lines, and mix them to applicable
audio lines.
​

I think it means all music coming from the HU is on the digital line, but the beeps and navigation audio and settings are all sent on separate lines to the amp. Since it mentions the SVC and MUTE are done in the amp, I am guessing that all volume operations are actually done in the amp, and so using the digital signal would make all the factory volume controls not work. Plus losing the nav audio and all. It might be worth it for a clean flat signal for some audio purists, but not worth it to me.

I think the high level outputs will be usable with a separate processor, as long as it's one that can combine the signal for the front mids, front tweeters, center channel, and subwoofer. Some factory amps won't work if they don't sense the load of the speaker being connected to them, but I've tried it with ours and it doesn't care.

 

[alanrojas87]

do those colors correspond to the wire directly connected to the actual speakers? like at the pin? trying to hook up my lc6i to get rca to amp, thanks in advance

 

[2016TouringSLC]

do those colors correspond to the wire directly connected to the actual speakers? like at the pin? trying to hook up my lc6i to get rca to amp, thanks in advance

When I replaced my front speaker and tweeter, the color code from the amp matched the connection to the speakers.

 

[alanrojas87]

When I replaced my front speaker and tweeter, the color code from the amp matched the connection to the speakers.

thank you sir, I hooked up the wiring to an lc6i and that to my jx1000 amp. I routed the power cable through the firewall and had to call it a night...this morning the car won't turn on. I'm scared shitless, I mean I didn't even hook up the fuse on the power cable simply hooked up the terminal to the fuse holder and ran the rest of the cable so not sure what happened. the dash lights up like Christmas scrolling through transmission error, acc error, emergency brake error, error, error, error. just called roadside, getting down
towed to the stealership In about 30 min

 

[2016TouringSLC]

I had something like happen with mine, so I removed the battery cable for a few minutes and reinstalled. Everything rebooted and it was fine. Hopefully that's all it is.

This car is like a giant computer, and sometimes it needs a hard reboot.

 

[alanrojas87]

I had something like happen with mine, so I removed the battery cable for a few minutes and reinstalled. Everything rebooted and it was fine. Hopefully that's all it is.

This car is like a giant computer, and sometimes it needs a hard reboot.

that was the first thing I tried, left it disconnected while I showered and got ready for the tow truck. no luck

 

[2016TouringSLC]

Let us know how it turns out. Would like to avoid a similar experience.

 

[alanrojas87]

Let us know how it turns out. Would like to avoid a similar experience.

well, roadside came and was unable to take the car for 2 reasons. it was on a drive way with a steep downhill and the emergency break was engaged. called the dealership and Richard, the service manager at Sames Honda came to the house and started to work on it. he said the inside of the car, i.e the push start button was not communicating with the engine. he said there was a similar case they had so we was going to bring a new computer and swap it out. that did not work. he brought over another tech with him and they got to work, mind you, outside my house in the sun 103°. I was truly impressed with the service. Richard called in a flatbed and went to go buy wheel dollies to get it off the driveway (only way the tow trucks would take it, due to not wanting to risk damaging the transmission) I've been in contact with Richard since yesterday morning and they are still trying to figure out what the deal is. I'll head over in a bit to get a rental but hopefully this gets resolved quickly

 

[peterletran]

OMG !!!
This is an extremely helpful thread !!!
I was looking for the wiring diagram for the speakers so I could implement a
LOC &or DSP into my system. Looks like I'll need to use an 8 channel input and output system.
I didn't realize that the tweeters are powered by their own amplifier channels.
Typically, almost all manufacturers just slap a passive HPF piggybacked off the full-range door speaker.
I'd really prefer not to have to run a whole (n)other amplifier just for that.

 

[Superthermal]

When I used the high level outputs I had no problem. I left about 6" of service loop on the side toward the amp. (the amp in our touring was located in the kick panel just inside the passenger side door. The outputs -HIGH LEVEL_ were wired directly into my aftermarket amps high level inputs. I have had no problem with the system as a whole other than periodic needs for a reboot of the head unit. As a person that does Audio Visual for a living I am not impressed with the sound EQing that Honda did and wish I could disable it and bypass all the "modifications" they needed to do to get the cheap stock speakers to sound reasonable. I will someday spend some money to add in a 13+band eq device to help bring back the sound.

 

[peterletran]

When I used the high level outputs I had no problem. I left about 6" of service loop on the side toward the amp. (the amp in our touring was located in the kick panel just inside the passenger side door. The outputs -HIGH LEVEL_ were wired directly into my aftermarket amps high level inputs. I have had no problem with the system as a whole other than periodic needs for a reboot of the head unit. As a person that does Audio Visual for a living I am not impressed with the sound EQing that Honda did and wish I could disable it and bypass all the "modifications" they needed to do to get the cheap stock speakers to sound reasonable. I will someday spend some money to add in a 13+band eq device to help bring back the sound.

Yep ... I hear ya ...
I'm currently running a sub amp hooked to an LOC right by the rear sub. (because db drive doesn't have high input for some reason )
It helps alot to cut out as much bass to the "full range" speakers as possible to run at full tilt 40 volume, but ...
There's still a TON of harsh approx. 2k - 5k oem eq-ing that pierces my ears.
I just came home from a 20 minute drive with it running at full tilt, but my ears were ringing for a good half hour after that.
I'm seriously considering getting the JL Audio TwK-88 just so I can put a proper crossover and eq on all the speakers.
As of right now, I'm noticing there is still a significant amount of bass coming out of the door speakers causing
distortion even with bass and sub completely off on the head unit.

 

[CivicX_Si_VTurbo]

Hey fellow civic owner. First off wanted to thank you very much for posting this info as I am in the process of installing an amplifier and subwoofer. As I was installing I noticed there is a bit of a typo in the chart regarding the front speakers, which I am using to tap my LC2i in to. For A5 you listed it as Front Left speaker + and for A6 you listed it as Front Right speaker +. By looking at the pattern it seems A12 and A13 are correct for the front right speaker. My concern is the front left speaker. According to the pattern I wired it as A5 = Front Left speaker - and A6 = Front Left speaker +. If you happen to know, could you please clarify. I'm concerned to finish up and have incorrect wiring that will be difficult to figure out. Again thanks a lot for the diagram.

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