Phearable tune help (LTFT, STFT VALUES)

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ReaperCivic

ReaperCivic

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Okay and just out of curiosity what would happen to my car if I kept it this way? Would it just do damage over time or is it not safe to pull even right now? Just gonna order the PRL SRI and I’ll have it by Monday. Just want to know more thanks for the help.
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Safe to drive? Sure. But long term, switching away from the Injen is a very wise move.
 
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Safe to drive? Sure. But long term, switching away from the Injen is a very wise move.
Okay awesome thanks for the info, What other small engine modifications from PRL would you recommend for small differences? Like piping or tubing etc?
 

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How do I know what loop I’m in? Plus it’s a Canadian car so prl cobra is kinda annoying to install I believe because you have to extend wires and stuff... what do you recommend me doing for an intake and should I keep driving my car like this??
I bought the PRL CAI w/ Race MAF, but then decided to get the SRI conversion kit.
Wires is not the problem.

It is because the windshield washer fluid reservoir in the CDN spec is different from the US spec.
On the US spec, the reservoir is SMALLER, and on the passenger side.
On the CDN spec, the reservoir is BIGGER, and on the driver side.
CDN spec reservoir is sitting right where the CAI is supposed to go.
(Yeah, the Civics are built in Canada, but it's different, ironic eh?)

You can do a CDN to USDM conversion, PRL sells a conversion kit.
You just need the time, and patience to do, difficulty is...moderate?
https://prlmotorsports.com/usdmwindsheildwasherreservoirconversionkit2016civicsi.aspx

Conversion kit (literally bracket + few screws) to go from CAI to SRI.
https://prlmotorsports.com/civicxcoldairtoshortram-1-1-1.aspx
 

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I'm also on phearable but my ltft is generally 0 to -6

PRL short ram intake and PRL Catless downpipe
 


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I bought the PRL CAI w/ Race MAF, but then decided to get the SRI conversion kit.
Wires is not the problem.

It is because the windshield washer fluid reservoir in the CDN spec is different from the US spec.
On the US spec, the reservoir is SMALLER, and on the passenger side.
On the CDN spec, the reservoir is BIGGER, and on the driver side.
CDN spec reservoir is sitting right where the CAI is supposed to go.
(Yeah, the Civics are built in Canada, but it's different, ironic eh?)

You can do a CDN to USDM conversion, PRL sells a conversion kit.
You just need the time, and patience to do, difficulty is...moderate?
https://prlmotorsports.com/usdmwindsheildwasherreservoirconversionkit2016civicsi.aspx

Conversion kit (literally bracket + few screws) to go from CAI to SRI.
https://prlmotorsports.com/civicxcoldairtoshortram-1-1-1.aspx
I don't know what they include with that kit but I didn't buy anything and I converted mine from a Cai to a Sri for a while. I literally just put the cone right on the maf.

Honda Civic 10th gen Phearable tune help (LTFT, STFT VALUES) IMG_20210412_195937146
 

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I don't know what they include with that kit but I didn't buy anything and I converted mine from a Cai to a Sri for a while. I literally just put the cone right on the maf.
The mounting kit re-uses one of the stock mounting points, and adds a support point at the aluminum MAF housing. The piece that has threads on both sides is rubber insolated to kill off any vibrations transferred.

Honda Civic 10th gen Phearable tune help (LTFT, STFT VALUES) 1618291090486


Honda Civic 10th gen Phearable tune help (LTFT, STFT VALUES) 1618291193234
 

Zachrael

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So, few things to dig through on here.

STFT is short term fuel trim. LTFT is long term fuel trim. LTFT's are just an average of STFT's. When I do tuning I generally try to shoot for within 3%, on personal vehicles obviously I want it as close to 0 as possible because I am a picky bastard.

Now, with that being said, is 5-10% going to harm anything, absolutely not. The ecu is doing exactly what its designed to do, it's compensating due to added factors. The fuel change (aka 10% ethanol), the different location of the maf, the way the air is hitting the maf, etc etc.

As long as fuel trims are within reason, it's not a big deal. I've seen customers cars come in with canned tunes that have had fuel trims off 20% for years without any issues.

Now on the flip side, if your fuel trims are to far off in either direction, the ECU won't be able to calculate it correctly and it's just a "estimate" at that point. That is when things get scary and you can start to see some detonation (knock retard, KR, small explosions in the cylinders). This is what cracks ring landings, sleeves, blocks, etc etc etc.

With all of that said, I wouldn't worry about it, but if you want to dial them in more, you can easily do so yourself with a little bit of reading and a little bit of $. There are plenty of guides out there and I wouldn't mind lending a hand :)

As far as replacing the injen with the stock air box, you are more than happy to, but if your maf was calibrated for the injen, you could see a drastic swing when going back to stock. This can be bad or this can be good. For example, if you are +10, maybe going back to stock will only make you +2. But on the flip side, if you are +10 and you go to stock and go to +20, that would be no bueno.

Regardless, you did the right thing by asking, as that is the only way you can learn my friend! Enjoy the tune and quit stressing!
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