persistent error code p0035...

[Stockblock]

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[5th 3l3ment]

The problem persists.

 

[Stockblock]

Based off your previous comments I'd check the continuity of the wires with a multi meter. Even then I'd pay close attention to the pins and maybe even rewire it with a thicker wire, making sure to leave some slack so it. Lmk if that helps

 

[5th 3l3ment]

Based off your previous comments I'd check the continuity of the wires with a multi meter. Even then I'd pay close attention to the pins and maybe even rewire it with a thicker wire, making sure to leave some slack so it. Lmk if that helps

I did use thicker wire. I was at orilleys just now and my christmas lights are back again. What i noted is power is slightly lacking via ktuner yet when im on Ktune acceleration suffers. Im wondering if my waste gate is faulty. Im about to swap out my spark plugs note my ktune. Pics attached

 

[5th 3l3ment]

file:///var/mobile/Library/SMS/Attachments/2f/15/A7849BE2-CB57-45F9-98B5-0E07E4ED8A6C/67841631616__C2671D62-FEA0-49B7-9417-DB60FC8BBDA7.MOV

 

[5th 3l3ment]

This problem is persistent now my ecu kicks out the ktuner Its the only way i can explain it.

 

[st4xor]

I, too, was just recently afflicted by P0035. Repairing a green wire seems to have fixed the issue for me, so I figured I would tack-on my experience here. I have a '20 Si sedan w/ ~38k miles.

Was leaving work one cold evening, got the car under load and got the Christmas tree dash. Scanner revealed the following codes:

• P0035 -- Turbo bypass control solenoid valve circuit high voltage (Permanent + Temp)
• U0416 -- VSA Brake Actuator Malfunction
• U0416:68 -- VSA System Malfunction

Tested my battery with a multimeter and it was low (11.8v), and it was still my original OEM battery so I figured I would start there. But the issue persisted, at which point, I dug in and found all the threads here and on Facebook, etc.

I found this YouTube vid super helpful with diagnosing and fixing, so check it out. I had just been messing around on the back side of the engine (oil temp/pressure sensor wire routing) the prior weekend, so strongly suspected the green wire behind the engine by the oil cap. Sure enough, when I pulled off the electrical tape (no visible damage from the outside) I found this, just like the OP:

The YouTube vid helped with connector disassembly, but one tip on pulling out the pins is that you need to apply pressure with a small flathead or similar right here so the metal can clear a square protrusion in the plastic plug body:

I tried to give the short green wire still attached to the pin as much of a mechanical connection to the pigtail extension as I could before I soldered, but there wasn't much of the green wire left to work with:

Finally, here is the plug re-assembled and pigtails soldered back to the harness wires before heat shrink + sheathing:

Related threads:
https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/p0035-no-boost-broken-wire.74950/

 

[st4xor]

Crud, p0035 is back ~6 months (including one track day) later. Looks like my repair didn't hold up. Can anyone help me identify this connector? Going to see if I can find a pre-assembled pigtail for sale so I don't have to crimp...

And this is a better shot of where it plugs in (backside of the engine, that's the oil fill port on the right side of the picture)...

 

[st4xor]

Pretty sure this is it, going to give it a shot...

Sumitomo female 2 pin DL 090-2C

Edit: the part linked below ended up not being correct, see next post

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/2328

 

[st4xor]

So, I ended up completing the fix (hopefully for good, this time) with the pigtail I linked above, but the connector housing from the link was not a perfect match. I still believe "DL 090-2C" is the correct part# as shown in the screenshot above. But Looking back on the picture in the link, I see I didn't double-check carefully enough.

However! I was able to de-pin the pigtail/connector I bought, and transfer the new pins/wires over to the OE connector from my car, and voila, hopefully fixed for good. And the pigtail wires were very nice, I think it was 16 gauge with what felt like heat resistant (rubbery) insulation. So overall pleased, just took marginally more fiddling to transfer the pins.

 

[ayeitsmikko]

Im currently having this same issue. However I checked the wiring and the wires are fine. I kept on turning off the car and turning it back on and after a few starts, the CEL light went away and the code reader no longer reads the p0035. Service department told me to put back the stock intake and drive it normally, but my mishimoto intake has been on for 4 years without issues.

It's the second time it happened. This happened though after changing the battery and doing an oil change. I'm stumped.

Im going to take notes of the possible fixes above and hopefully it works out

 

[JustAHatchback]

Im currently having this same issue. However I checked the wiring and the wires are fine. I kept on turning off the car and turning it back on and after a few starts, the CEL light went away and the code reader no longer reads the p0035. Service department told me to put back the stock intake and drive it normally, but my mishimoto intake has been on for 4 years without issues.

It's the second time it happened. This happened though after changing the battery and doing an oil change. I'm stumped.

Im going to take notes of the possible fixes above and hopefully it works out

P0035 just popped up for me tonight too wiring seems fine so I’m stumped as well. Very hesitant to replace factory wiring unless I’m certain it’s faulty

 

[ayeitsmikko]

P0035 just popped up for me tonight too wiring seems fine so I’m stumped as well. Very hesitant to replace factory wiring unless I’m certain it’s faulty

I ended up filing a report with the NHTSA because I noticed the 2017 Type R had a recall for this very issue, but i was confused as to why the Si and other models don't. Hopefully it can push for a recall because this definitely can be a safety concern since the car loses power and other safety features.

 

[JustAHatchback]

I ended up filing a report with the NHTSA because I noticed the 2017 Type R had a recall for this very issue, but i was confused as to why the Si and other models don't. Hopefully it can push for a recall because this definitely can be a safety concern since the car loses power and other safety features.

Good call. I ended up getting a couple replacement pigtails from Ballenger Motorsports that seem almost identical to the OEM. Worst case I can probably use the pins and wires but I think they might just fit as is.

Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Sumitomo » 2 Way Connector Plug Pigtail TS Sealed Series for Sensor Application, Gray Keyway 1 (bmotorsports.com)

OEM for comparison:

Just gonna bite the bullet, replace the wiring, and hope that fixes it. Sucks that this is even an issue to begin with but at least the solution is pretty cheap…

 

[ayeitsmikko]

Good call. I ended up getting a couple replacement pigtails from Ballenger Motorsports that seem almost identical to the OEM. Worst case I can probably use the pins and wires but I think they might just fit as is.

Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Sumitomo » 2 Way Connector Plug Pigtail TS Sealed Series for Sensor Application, Gray Keyway 1 (bmotorsports.com)

OEM for comparison:

Just gonna bite the bullet, replace the wiring, and hope that fixes it. Sucks that this is even an issue to begin with but at least the solution is pretty cheap…

I appreciate you looking out and telling me the parts you used. I may look into this fix because Honda just quoted me about $2800.

I played with the idea of trading in my car since I have positive equity and getting a new Si instead lol